Beyond Help?

Normally that is the case. It seems to complete it's self test, which does not include testing the signals from the sensors. Then when you drive it is picking up a sensor that is either not giving a signal, or is giving a signal that is out of scope compared to the others. Where about in the country are you? If someone has VAG-COM they can hook it up and see the wheel speeds indicated by each sensor.

Normally if the system self-checks and the light goes off only to come on again when driving then it is the sensor rings. It is a strange problem indeed. Still, it explains how your getting it MOTed every year!

I can tell you it uses 0.62 of a litre of fuel on full heat and 0.27 litres on low heat. Mine runs on high heat for about 8 minutes before it switches to low. How long it runs on low depends on how fast I have the blower motor running. How much fuel it wastes is impossible to say as the car's engine uses more fuel when the engine is cold anyway so the booster heater heating the water up probably saves a little that way, but it will only be a little!

If there is debris in the engine then your engine has had it anyway! Seriously though, there should be nothing in there that can not be suspended in the oil, the oil is designed to do this and lift it to the filter for removal. Crankcase sludge builds up if you don't change the oil so a maintained engine should not have any anyway. Even if there is the oil-pan must be removed to clean it out properly. Many main dealers extract the oil via the dipstick tube. It has been pretty common practice for quite a few years. That is why some makes have the dipstick tube going to the lowest part of the oil-pan and if you want to drain the oil by the sump plug you have to jack the front of the car up to get the oil to run to the back.

Technically speaking, the booster heater comes on as required by the pre-defined temperature settings etc., as long as the engine is running. The auxiliary heater is the same unit but with additional wiring, it's own battery under the driver's seat, and a timer unit built into the clock. You press the button on the clock and it comes on on it's own, you do not need the engine running. It uses the after-running pump and heater fans to distribute the heat. However in most forums the terms are interchangeable as no-one knows anyone with a timer.....

That is the meathod I only mentioned above, but you can buy cans of 'Arctic Spray' from DIY stores for freezing pipes, it works out at half the price of a can of air-duster.

Stainless? Are you sure that is what you want? The idea is the valves wear before the seats. Why stainless?

Who are 'They' and what have they tried to come to that conclusion?

The beauty of the paper filter in the PD engine is you can see anything stuck to it and it is on the top half of the engine. That means that there is no need to remove the sump plug, you just suck the oil out using an extractor. They are a good tool to have, especially when Mr Main Dealer mechanic overfills the engine. A Pela DIY one is about

Yes, trade prices. Invoice price to customers is

I have seen a demo video by Redex where they took a well used car and inspected the inside of the cylinders with an endoscope through the spark plug holes, and removed the injectors to show how the nozzles looked. The engine was pretty coked up. They then fitted another separate fuel supply system, the full Monty. Although the ECU still controlled all the injectors, injectors 1, 2 & 3 were fed from one tank which was just fuel, 4, 5 & 6 were supplied from the other tank which had their product added. After 2000 miles the spark plugs were removed and an endoscope used to view the inside of the engine. Cylinders 1, 2 & 3 were still coked up, but 4, 5 & 6 were almost clean.

Yep, turbo oil seals would do that. The oily deposit suggests it is not all burning off which would also suggest it is a post combustion problem.

I have just checked my catalogue and it seems you can buy a 25 litre carboy of that Carlube PD for

I would. If it does not then the shop has recoded it. But I doubt it. Ford try to use the CAN bus to recover the radio information from the radio and you car does not have CAN bus!

It is an M series and as you have been round here for a bit I could have given you the code for free...... NOTE TO EVERYONE: I only ever offer this, if you ask you really really don't get! Members with over 50 posts can try PMing me though! lol!

This is really their PD oil, much more expensive! http://www.carlube.co.uk/index.cfm?product=74 http://www.carlube.co.uk/clients/www.carlube.co.uk/assets//Image/triple_r/TR-5W40PD-Dies-Ful-Syn-Lg.jpg

http://www.dingking.tv/ For bigger dents you can use the hairdryer and 'Arctic Spray' method.

I have had a Woodstock DAB 54 for a few years and it is very good. The only places I did not get a good enough signal was the lake district and in central Wales. With any model of DAB radio you will need a good DAB antenna though.

Is the original radio a Ford branded one for example an 'M' series? Look at the serial number does it start with a letter M?

Yes, normally at least five. It is for multi delivery and safety reasons. In any case the compartment is filled with the required grade, type and brand of fuel for that delivery, they don't empty half a compartment at Tesco's then pop over to the local BP and deliver the rest.

Vauxhall 'GO' batteries are still the cheapest decent quality battery you can buy. You get them from the Vauxhall parts department.

The only 'special' kit you may need is a pair of nail pincers to tighten the CV joint boot clip. Other than that a socket set, a good jack and a pair of axle stands is about all you need.

Check your vacuum pipe from the pump at the front of the engine back to the brake servo, it likely has a small hole worn in it at the engine cover or where it passes over the engine bracket. This loss of vacuum will be insignificant at high revs but cause problems at low speeds and if the brakes are re-applied soon after previous use.

You MUST open the bleed nipple, the risk of damage is too great if you don't. As for this introducing air into the system you take the hose clamp off before you close the nipple, when fluid runs out the air is gone and the nipple should be closed. There is a reason the nipple is at the top you know!

Thanks for the feedback, it all helps our overall knowledge.