Ivor_E_Tower

Scrappies for second-hand (or even e-bay); dealer for a new one. Few other choices.

Clock spring, not switch - it looks a bit like a clock spring you see, it's a sort of spirally would piece of wire carrying electricity from the steering column surround to the wheel itself, so that there is electricity in the wheel no matter how it is turned from full lock one side, to full lock the other side. Unfortunately these items wear out occasionally, and need to be replaced.

Perish the thought of how someone discovered this ...... :) Why would Mr Kipling want to fit an immobiliser to his exceedingly good cakes ? B)

Are you sure you can take the instrument panel out without removing the steering wheel on a facelifted model ? (I hope that you can, but seem to remember the opposite being posted on this site)

Should have gone for a Ghia with all the toys ! I still prefer mine to my parents' new V70 D5 (but only just); try to get a Volvo Freedom test-drive day; 45 minutes in as many new Volvos as you can manage (Even if the website leads you to believe that it's limited to 2 or 3).

You need to take them all out; you must have missed one !

Oh dear. IIRC 2 years unlimite, then limited to 60,000 miles in third year :-(( Time to get that multi-meter out. If you bought from a trader, there should be some sort of warranty by law, or did you buy from a private seller?

It's under warranty, take it to a dealer and let them sweat ! Could be loose wire in the rear of the panel dimmer, or blown fuse, or a whole host of other reasons. I take it that all clocks, dials, warning lights etc work OK in the daylight ?

Zafira is much smaller than a Galaxy; the rearmost seats have very little legroom , and this depends on you sliding the middle row forwards a bit, compromising legroom for those seated there. They are really only suitable for small children. In the Galaxy, 7 adults are not a problem.

Well, you have my sympathies but I don't know the cause; could be that something got disturbed when the clutch etc was changed. May be something very simple but sounds like something is draining the electrics and reducing the battery voltage which then causes all the other woes. Could be totally unrelated alternator fault ? Can you get the charging voltage checked when the engine is running? Also check battery voltage when engine is first switched off, then in the morning before you start up.

Wait until you see the new S80, due shortly. Visit www.vvspy.com :ph34r:

Eh? I thought it was supposed to start only after you STOPPED the engine (or turned the key back from accessory psoition - my pump will run if you do this without actually starting the engine, eg if I turn the key to release the steering lock to let the car roll away from infront of the garage door, so I can open the garage). The low-frequency noise when it is running is normal, sounds like it doesn't need replacing or servicing (no pun intended).

May also be worth checking the tyre pressures, and that the correct wheels/tyres are fitted. Is the 2.0 really geared that low ?

If the switch goes faulty and jams "on", the ECU thinks that you are braking and disables the electronic throttle function - hence the engine would not rev over 1000 rpm. Does sound like brake switch problem.

..and gearbox :lol:

VR6 - been on holiday? Welcome back :lol:

Where is the clunk coming from? Could be the heating/ventilation recirculation flap being actuated automatically

Cars are getting too clever. Radio volume linked to speed is OK, but wipers that drop to intermittent when you stop, and indicators that flash for a minimum of 3 flashes is all getting a bit unnecessary.

Just the usual - working air conditioning, no noisy drop links (clonking from front suspension over bumps), all electrical items working, carpets under front seats dry; with that mileage on it, check that it has been serviced regularly. The 2.3 engine has chain-driven camshafts, so no worries about belt changes, but make sure that there are no undue noises coming from under the bonnet.

Warning - if you are going to hit nails into the car, make sure that you don't puncture any pipes ! From experience of other cars, I'd be very careful about unblocking a/c drain pipes from underneath the car - usually they terminate above something else, to stop road dirt from accidentally going up the drain pipe. The surest way is to attack the problem from inside, and poke a metal rod (eg old coathanger) down the drainhole to unblock it. I have previously worked on my parent's old car to do this - the dealer said that thay had cleared the drain by blowing from underneath, and of course when I had a look, I found that you couldn't get to the pipe outlet from underneath. Once I opened the heater plenum, I could see that the drain was blocked, so brought out my trusty old coathanger and fixed the problem in seconds.

Usually taken from the front passenger footwell, so if anyone is in that seat, make sure that they keep their shoes on !!!

....and I think I said that at the Brighton Conference. (Harold Wilson)

Almost unbelievable - got in the car on Friday night and the OTHER front sidelight bulb had gone. I know that they were both working after I changed the offside one that lunchtime because I switched them on to test them. Anyway, I changed the duff one this morning whilst having 2 new front tyres fitted - dead easy when there is no wheel and tyre in the way ! 2 new Avon high-performance tyres fitted (ZV3 IIRC) 215/55 HR 16 RF (97 load rating) for

Well, changed the sidelight bulb, not too much trouble sliding the cover out of the way, but I think I have ruined my jacket :D Next time, remind me to cut a polythene bag open at both ends, and slide it onto my sleeve first - and you dont't half need odd-shaped hands to do it - thin enough to get into the gap but strong enough to grip the holder and twist ......