me myself and I

Just for the record.On 2 days ago I topped up the Power steering and the light has stayed off ie only comes on when when I use the indicator to turn.The light was coming on on some certain roads (hills) around where I live that I drive on almost every day and since i topped up the power steering fluid it hasnt come on.Maybe a co-incedence but I am as baffled as the rest of ya.

low? IIRC? there are two marks on the dip stick one for cold and another for hot! before you top it up check! and just to pee on your bonfire there is no electrical level sensor on the ps system so its not that :lol: low as in barely touching the dipstick (below low) when hot.

[ You say that when the light goes off (which light, the dash light or the actual indicator?) that all works well. So are you saying it doesn't work when it comes on? When the "warning" light comes on then BOTH the dash light AND the outside indicator stay on. When the "warning" does go off then the idicators/hazards return to normal. Now after racking my brains there was one fluid level I never thought to check. The power steering level.So went to level ground and and removed the dip for it.Guess what........it was low. I will top it upin the morn and let you know. Sometimes with these The Da Vinci Code seems a doddle to de-code rather then these.

I'm not clear on the description of the problem. You go round corners or up hills and the left hand indicator comes on, albeit intermittently - so is that both the actually indicator on the outside of the car and the light in the dash? If so I don't understand why you'd associate an external indicator lamp coming on unexpectedly with .. the expansion tank! Or the brake/clutch reservoir! Yeah.it seems like the fluid is dropping below a "low" level when the car goes on an inclince/angle therfore triggering the light as a wrning,

My left hand ind (bothe the light on the dash and the bulb ) is coming on intermittently and staying on for a bit then going off.Seems to come on when going around a roundabout or going up a hill then goes off agin.though it may be a sign that the expansion tank was low.But after topping up its still there. Is it another sign ie brake/clutch resevoir low or is it just the most simplist explantion.Dodgy relay. When the light goes off the indicators work perfectly. Thoughts......?

I know from a differnent car (pajero) that taking of and cleaning the EGR valve can only help the engine.It gets clogged up with a lot of black gunk and basically hinder rather then help an engine and in many cases on the pajero people have put a piece of metal over the egr with very little if any ill-effect on the engine.But as I said it was on a pajero.Might do no harm to remove your and soak it in diesel for a few hours.remember if you are getting black smoke its not burning fuel right (fuel pump....timing slightly out?) then egr may be feeding this black smoke back into your engine hence causing it to stutter/act strange and as Seatkid says it certainly wont help your mpg. HTH

PLEASE REMEMBER THIS... removing the bearings is NOT a permanent soloution.Depending on how you drive and how much you drive the shaft WILL EVNTUALLY WEAR DOWN THE CASING THAT THE SELECTOR SITS IN as the roller bearing has been removed.If you intend to keep the car for any lenght of time it will have to be replaced.

Sorted! The selector had seized.When I brought it to my local mecchyy he knew what is was straight away.Removed battery and all covers and battery tray.Removed cables from the selector.Removed selector and you could see stright away the rust on the top part.Took out shaft and found that the ridicously small bearings were seized.He gave me a choice here.Try and source a new roller with bearings or remove them complety and adjust the cables.Decided to just remove them and pack with grease.A bit of adjusting later and Bingo.Problem soved for a while anyway. Just as a side note he said that on theses gearboxes (and he said this thru experience) the selector on these Diesels are the same as a transit (Front wheel drive)Maybe helpful for someone in the future.

Deffo not linkage. At the gaerstick all seems well.both cables still attached on top of the gearbox. looks like the box will have to be dropped.At this stage if I get a half decent offer from a breakers then its gon.Pity the engine is in great shape.

yeah tried locking and unlocking via drivers door....all other doors locked and unlocked, also tried deadlocking etc. but no joy - it feels that there no connection to the lock from the handle....could be worse i suppose at least it's locked!! will try what me myself and I suggests tomorrow and post back thanks again for the advice fellas ;-) In my basic knowledge of electrics........If ther is no signal getting thru the wiring then no remotes or anything will get thru

this happened me not so long ago.If you open the front door you can see the wires/rubber boot.Get into the wires (I got my mecchy to do it as I am useless at electrics). You need to find the wire for the unlocking the door.Cut it and put a seperate feed to it to unlock it.the chances are the wire has broken somewhere along the line.Cheap wiring the downfall of these.You made need to cut numerous wires befor you find the right one as the speaker wires,elec window wires all run thru this boot.

Just checked fluid level seems ok.No leakage around it or anything.Damn.Feels like the linkage is still attached at the top of the gearbox.

Hope it's not a gearbox problem.Can only slect 3rd and 4th.No 1st 2nd 5th or reverse.Havent looked at fluid level yet as over the last day or so the brake pedal stayed hard for a good bit on strting. And have had trouble selecting gears.Any idea's?

ok.I am looking to buy a Galaxy/Alhambra/Sharan. Cant go any further back in years then 2000.Mileage doesnt matter a whole bunch as long as its running fine.Idealy with 7 seats and A/C,doesnt matter if it needs recahrging as I know someone who will do this cheap enough for me.Apart from that once it is in decent running condition.............and Diesel. It's gotta be cheap enough as I will have to pay import duty on it into Ireland.With regards to that I would need all the details of the car so I can calculate how much it will cost on Import Tax so as I dont get any nasty surprises and dont waste your time and mine. If you are looking to sell or know anyone looking to sell give me a shout. Ta Brian

at your right knee where the main fusebox is look into the fuses and then look up above the fuses there maybe a few more up there.There was on my petrol and aon the diesel.Change them regardless of whtether they are blown or not.May or may not help.Otherwise off to a lecce to see.But tbh I would change the battery as even if you do locate your prob your batt is probably knackered by know anyway.

Got sorted.Went to mechhy and he ran a seperat current into the door wires and it undid the dead lock.It just cant be opened from the inside but can from the outside. Anyone wanna buy a cheap Alhambra?

Do your outside lights work? Sounds like it could be the alt what with all the jump strting.Sounds like the alt isnt charging the battery.Do you drive it much after jumping it?

So i had enough of the passeenger rear door and the stupid cheap crap wiring so i decided to disconnect the whole lot and manually lock and unlock it BUT when i did all that and closed the door it locked.Now I cant open it from the inside or outside and since it has no electric feed into it i havent a f***ing clue what to do. I have the door card pulled back enough to get my hand onto the unit inside the door but alas nothing. Where's that dynamite.

Did that. Just had her jacked up and looks like the rear wheel bearing is gone as well.Hopefully these are only needle bearings and not the monsters that are on the front

Loud hum that seems to be coming from drivers side front.Is at its loudest when the weight goes onto the drivers side.Changed the wheel bearing but didnt make 1 sod of difference.Noticed the shock was leaking when I was working on it. Anyone any ideas. BTW it gets very loud and annoying

Thanks insider.The new bearing came with a new bolt.Thanks for the info

Ok.Front drivers side needs to be replaced.I have someone who will push the bearing out and replace if I give him the hub. So does anyone have a sequence for removing the hub. Loosen Bolt in the middle of the wheel! Remove wheel! Lift off brake cailper Remove Brake disc ???????????? From here............

I had a 1997 2ltr Petrol.I did the very same thing.Temp gauge barely got up to 1/4 way but if I left it to idle it would go up to half way and the fan would cut in no probs.I did change the Thermo ( there was 1 in there already) and it made no difference.I even tried the thermo back to front just in case but no.I came to the conclusion that this is the way it should be and it was doing no harm.Figured that it was just ram air hitting the sensor and bringing the temp down.

When it works the Temp control works ,speed level works ie when it does work it works as it should but when it doesnt work .....well....the switch on the dash does not illuminate and the dials in the back do nothing and nothing comes out of the vents.I might take the switch out and have a look at the contacts.