40k + Cambelt Competition

[Guest mcyoungy]

Have to say mine looked scary. I'll be getting it changed after the next 40k.

[Guest walz]

Hi Ya,

Yes MCYOUNGY, My friend Rob (Mechanic) off the programme "The Garage", he is the very smart one win the pink Smart car!! He is not Gay but comes across that way recommends that to always change the water pumps when doing a cam belt as the labour in time is the same so really the only extra cost is the water pump. VW mechanic trained so hopefully knows his stuff.

Walz

[widu13]

[quote name='tim-spam' post='96037' date='Jan 15 2007, 17:05:50']At the recommended 40,000 miles, mine [i]looked[/i] as good as new - no signs of any cracks or wear, and the width was in specification for a new belt. I'll still change mine every 40,000 miles though.[/quote]

If you got a genuine kit (VW, FORD, SEAT) the new 60k intervals now apply.

[Guest mcyoungy]

What other brands are there? Apart from Gates who make the OE kits.

[tim-spam]

[quote name='widu13' post='96885' date='Jan 20 2007, 20:13:43']If you got a genuine kit (VW, FORD, SEAT) the new 60k intervals now apply.[/quote]
You may be right (and I have read that in a Golf IV manual), but Seat UK recommended staying with the 40,000 mile interval as 'some other changes may have been made'. When I asked what these changes were, I could get no confirmation as to what they were or whether there actually had been 'some other changes'. When I suggested that they asked someone within VAG who would know, I couldn't get a sensible reply. So, as I do the work myself and it only costs the price of the parts, I will stick with 40,000 miles.

By the way, the OE belts are made by Continental.

[Guest mcyoungy]

Are they? Gates claim they make them on their website.

[tim-spam]

Both the belt I took off and the new one, bought as part of the kit from my local VW agents, were made by Continental. It is possible that the VAG group 'dual source' the belts, and Gates is a perfectly good supplier. However, for something as critical as a cambelt, I would always prefer to buy the genuine parts from the dealer. Eurocarparts also sell the genuine belt (Contitech), but their price is only a little lower than my local VW agent.

[Scorpiorefugee]

A little late on this but re. the query on water pump....

The simple answer is 'Yes, do change it'.

I bought my 52 ghia at 69K and gat the dealer to change the Cam belt under warranty at 72K as, despite being supplied by them and maintained from new, the cam belt had never been changed!!!

Water pump failed about 5K later. I took it to my local 'Corner shop' garage who I trust implicitly and they fixed it and advised me that Ford had left the cam belt fitting in such a state that it would have failed again very soon, but that is another story.

They do advise water pump change with cam belt on a lot of newer models now, but then they do care about their customers.

Just incase anyone gets stuck, I made it 200 miles home with no water pump by keeping the speed below 55 and using the heater for engine cooling and watching the thermometer like a hawk. Tey do seem to cope with tick over indefinitely, even with a shot pump.

Ron.

[MadBaz]

Just out of curiosity when should the timing chain be replaced on petrol engines?

[johnswlondon]

just to point out you pay more at ford but their work comes with a warranty.this is one job that must be done right

[Bigjeeze]

[quote name='johnswlondon' post='112669' date='Aug 6 2007, 04:02:21']just to point out you pay more at ford but their work comes with a warranty.this is one job that must be done right[/quote]


John

I get the feeling you are either a Ford Mechanic or own a Ford dealership?

Your posts continually harp on the "do it via the delaer cos it's safer route!"

You may be right - sometimes - but read a few hundred of the posts on here and you will soon realise the main issue with the Galaxy/Alhambra/Sharan is the poor quality of the garages servciing and repairing them. You just can't trust a large proportion of dealers.

[mumof4]

I am so glad i wasnt the only one thinking this bigj.....when i read all his posts this morn..does seem to like Fords alot.

Im my experience..Fords were/are crap..wouldnt touch them with a barge pole to service/repair my car..well i mean the gal i had anyway..Ordering from them is ok...its just their..ooo we will fix this and if that dont work we will fix that...and ooo need diagnostic at 100 odd smackeroonies aswell!...or the..well i aint quite sure whats wrong with her so leave it with us a few days!..then we will give you a bill that you need to sell a kidney to pay!
And the classic with mine..nothing wrong with your steering..its all in your head..them bam..hello tree when i lost all steering!..numptys.

[gio]

[quote name='tim-spam' post='97167' date='Jan 22 2007, 13:12:04'][quote name='widu13' post='96885' date='Jan 20 2007, 20:13:43']If you got a genuine kit (VW, FORD, SEAT) the new 60k intervals now apply.[/quote]
You may be right (and I have read that in a Golf IV manual), but Seat UK recommended staying with the 40,000 mile interval as 'some other changes may have been made'. When I asked what these changes were, I could get no confirmation as to what they were or whether there actually had been 'some other changes'. When I suggested that they asked someone within VAG who would know, I couldn't get a sensible reply. So, as I do the work myself and it only costs the price of the parts, I will stick with 40,000 miles.

By the way, the OE belts are made by Continental.


[/quote]

my limited understanding was the older versions were 40k,
but the newer versions are 60k down to better belt and
tensioners.

Only problem is when you do change them how do you
know you are getting?
It should be the newer stuff, but you never know.

[seatkid]

I was told by Skoda that they now change cambelts at 40,000 miles / 4 years - IIRC their previous handbook recommendation used to be inspect at 60,000 and change if necessary else reinspect at 80,000, 100,000 miles etc. (Old Tdi engines)

The problem appears to be that since the introduction of PD engines VAG have had significant failure rates under 60,000 miles. Hence the need to upgrade the kit and play safe.

However 40,000 miles is plain silly, you can pay ~

[mumof4]

How do i find out whether mine on the veccy should be 40k or 80k???..as in 1997 they upped it from 40 to 80..but as my wee veccy was first reg Aug 1997..how do i know/find out which she comes under??the cambelt was last done at 57k miles..she is now on nearly 100,400 miles...

As per the haynes manual i was given....i have checked the belt for wear..i.e..fraying etc.....and it looks in perfect condition.Runs smooth when she is idling aswell.(the belt i mean..)

[springen]

Told it was 60,000 miles or five years on my Tdi (Feb'05) by Ford Main Dealer (Haynes of Maidstone) on Friday.

[bogjam]

Just had mine done yesterday on 56K. I still don't know if it needed doing at 40K, but the dealership changed the water pump at the same time, they also pointed out that a CV boot, brakes all round, a tyre and full exhaust system needed replacing.

Paid 700+ for the work done (belt, water pump and service) and still have loads to do

The chest pains, palpitations and cold sweats have died down a little now.

[Ivor_E_Tower]

My Gal is (over)due for a cambelt change so I've been asking around for prices (including tensioner):
For main dealer:

[stevie m]

[quote name='Ivor_E_Tower' post='123500' date='Jan 15 2008, 18:18:17']My Gal is (over)due for a cambelt change so I've been asking around for prices (including tensioner):
For main dealer: Edited January 15, 2008 by stevie m

[jim4]

[quote name='stevie m' post='123501' date='Jan 15 2008, 18:26:02']Support Your Local Garages !!!!!!! [/quote]
I couldn't agree more - my local guy is excellent. You can speak directly to the mechanics working on your car. They'll make recommendations on cost effective solutions to problems, etc. etc., a much more approachable, human face to work with.

[italiastar]

[quote name='jim4' date='15 January 2008 - 07:55 PM' timestamp='1200423303' post='123507']
<!--quoteo(post=123501:date=Jan 15 2008, 18:26:02:name=stevie m)--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(stevie m @ Jan 15 2008, 18:26:02) [snapback]123501[/snapback]</div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->Support Your Local Garages !!!!!!! <img src="http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wink.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid="" border="0" alt="wink.gif" /><!--QuoteEnd--></div><!--QuoteEEnd-->
I couldn't agree more - my local guy is excellent. You can speak directly to the mechanics working on your car. They'll make recommendations on cost effective solutions to problems, etc. etc., a much more approachable, human face to work with.
[/quote]

Had mine done last year at 39K 6 years by an independent specialist -

[springen]

Just been quoted

[seatkid]

Ouch!

I swear that my local Skoda dealer has a fixed price board something like £295 for cambelt change - same price on all cars from Fabia to Superb and Yeti. As they are part of VW dealership next door I would expect around the same for a Shalaxy. Did you phone around a few VW/Skoda/SEAT/Audi dealers? Edited October 10, 2011 by seatkid

[springen]

[quote name='seatkid' timestamp='1318255659' post='168268']
Ouch!

I swear that my local Skoda dealer has a fixed price board something like

[seatkid]

[quote name='springen' timestamp='1318267924' post='168271']
[quote name='seatkid' timestamp='1318255659' post='168268']
Ouch!

I swear that my local Skoda dealer has a fixed price board something like £295 for cambelt change - same price on all cars from Fabia to Superb and Yeti. As they are part of VW dealership next door I would expect around the same for a Shalaxy. Did you phone around a few VW/Skoda/SEAT/Audi dealers?
[/quote]


I did, £475 from the Skoda dealer. £420 from my local garage I use for MOTs - not a main dealer. After I booked at Ford, the VW garage came back with a quote of £449 or £499 including the water pump. I'm tempted to cancel with Ford and go with the £499 at VW which includes the water pump (only £34 more than Ford) - this would mean the coolant gets changed too - which probably needs doing. What do you reckon ?
[/quote]

Hmmm.....If it were me.......

I would probably go for the VW garage but also get them to change the thermostat too (about £10 extra). BEFORE the job is done, make sure they use genuine VW parts and check they give a 2 or 3 year warranty on the job and parts (think that 2 year should be standard at VW).
Be a dork and ask them if they also change the tensioner and cambelt roller(s) - as they should. Ask them to retain the changed items for you to check their condition and establish they did actually change everything they should - tensioner, rollers, etc.

In theory the VW garage would probably have the most experience of the job (1.9 engine in many VW cars as well as the sharan) and should be less likely to ferk it up. Not all the coolant will be drained - asking them to do that will be a fair bit more work and could leave you with air lock problems.

If you have topped up the coolant in the past with non genuine coolant, you should have all the coolant drained. Likewise if you were foolish to put in lots of plain water and the coolant has turned a murky colour instead of the factory fresh pink.
Otherwise I would just ask them for the coolant to be topped up with original VAG G12++ to a 40% concentration (I think 30% is the normal UK spec, the 40% (scandinavian) will give you better corrosion protection)

Lastly as they have to remove the auxillary belt and PAS belt (if there is a seperate one on your engine), it would probably be worthwhile to change those too - it should cost no more than the cost of the belts - which if you um and ahh in front of them you should obtain at 20%+ discount. Edited October 10, 2011 by seatkid