Buncers

How old is your car? I've had the same problem with mine - see my post today

Needed the Air Con cooling for the first time this summer. Wasn't cooling so took into fraud. They claimed they couldn't find a leek but was only half full so have re-charged it. Car has only done 17k from new - less that 2 year old. Is it normal to need recharging so soon?

So has no one had to have their newish Galaxy Air Con recharged withing a couple of years?

Needed the Air Con cooling for the first time this summer. Wasn't cooling so took into fraud. They claimed they couldn't find a leek but was only half full so have re-charged it. Car has only done 17k from new - less that 2 year old. Is it normal to need recharging so soon?

I bought a brand new (2009 plate) Galaxy ghia, in June. Recently parked it in a car park and returned to find it had rolled into another car and a bank (costly repair to the front and wing). The handbrake was on. The dealer checked it out and claimed there was nothing wrong with the handbrake. The mechanic claimed I should be pulling the lever up as far as it will go (about 1 foot out). This seems pretty unreasonable considering the effort needed. Having driven many cars in the past have only ever pulled a handbrake lever up until it bites or just beyond and never as far as they are suggesting for this new galaxy. Anyone suggest who I should take this up with, since my guess is Fraud will try and dodge the issue.

Took your advice and looked again. Have now opted for a brand spanking new Galaxy Ghia. Great deal using government scrappage allowance. Delivery in a couple of weeks. Looking forward to it. Anyone know if it worth having the Smart Guard applied (

Thinking of buying a new or nearly new. Have been looking at Ecomotive and Blue Motion nothing much between them except look and about

Sorry - Thought I'd post this again. Anyone out there got any suggestions.

I used Mr Clutch for my Galaxy. It has been replaced twice since under their warranty. The last time they said they had to put in a Ford clutch. It's still not quite right (judder occassionally). Only good thing is it is cheap and they do replace it if there is a problem and they are cheap. So, use them if they are local and you don't mind going back regularly for servicing.

I suggest you don't use Mr Clutch, I had 3 fitted by them (because they kept going). The last one being a ford - but it's still giving problems. They are cheap though.

New problem on this old lady. When I turn her over, unless I turn the key back (anti-clockwise) slightly, the starting motor remains engaged. Has anyone had this problem? Is it an barrel problem or ignition switch problem or something else?

Had mine off for some years, after one fell off on the road. Does it make much of a difference to the driving or fuel consumption?

Did my front brakes last year. No special tool needed. Used a G-clamp to push back the pistons. Did the rear brakes yesterday. Tried the pliers to push back while turning the pistons (as suggested in Hayes), LOL what a joke, had to go out and buy a Draper tool (DRAPER ABS BRAKE SERVICING TOOL 22349), cheaper than the Laser tool (above) and it worked fine. Had to use a ratchet on the tool. Can't see how it is possible to do without a specific tool. That and the brake hose clamp, sure makes light work of the job. Was easier than front. I used Quinton Hazel pads on front and back.

Tried the pliers (as suggested in Hayes), LOL what a joke. I bought a Draper tool (DRAPER ABS BRAKE SERVICING TOOL 22349), cheaper than the Laser tool (above) and it worked fine. Had to use a ratchet on the tool. Can't see how it is possible to do without a specific tool. That and the brake hose clamp, sure makes light work of the job.

Thanks for the suggestions guys - just had it fixed at the garage.

Gear select went last night. Was like stirring soup, had to guess where gears were to get home. Any suggestions what could be the cause - before I book into the garage.

Did mine some time ago - have a look at:- http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...631entry41631

Just had a new clutch fitted at Mr Clutch (

Guys - thanks for all the comments Just to straighten out a few points. I DO NOT get any CRUNCHING. When trying to put into reverse, it is occassionally impossible, will not go in (no crunch), sometime will go in with some force (still no crunch), and also most times no problem. Forward gears no problems and no crunching. Have tried the clutch slipping test, high gear, accelerating from low speed, can't detect any slipping. No oil leaks visible. Guess I'll have to bite the bullet and get a garage to look at it.

Still having original problem of occassionally not being able to get into reverse when engine running. Otherwise clutch seems fine. Pedal is OK and no apparent slippling. All clutch centres I have contacted just want to change the clutch. Would appreciate any other suggestions.

Have added some better photos

Managed to bleed it - not easy - not enough room to even fit a spanner (8 mm this time). Had to remove the following:- 1) The undertray, because I dropped the spanner about four times. 2) The cable ducting thing on top of the starter motor - to get more access 3) The Air filter cover and hose at the back of it (with MAF) to get access to the fluid reservoir 4) The bulk head shield thing for the same reason. Not sure if it has improved the problem or not as yet. Why did Ford make these simple jobs so difficult??? I can't imagine it being any easier for a mechanic.

Is this it? Along side the starter motor (looking down into engine bay) Sorry about picture quality - only had camera phone available

Thanks Neil - I'll try bleeding it, worth a try Can I get at the bleed nipple from the engine bay or is it an under car job? Is it on the right or left side of the engine bay looking down? Rubber gaiter? Which one?