seatkid

plugs,leads,coil paks.

The misc bleeps were the clue that the battery was shot! My bet is someone removed the large corrugated air hose from the MAF sensor (or further back) to remove the lid of the airbox to change the air filter. Check it's been put back on fully and correctly with the clips on in the right place. The wheezing will be from an air leak here and of course the MAF sensor wont be seeing the correct airflow because of the leak and restricting power. Also check the plug in the MAF sensor is connected in case that was also disconnected. Here's a picture to help, the corrugated hose is at the back. The MAF sensor connector is the thing just to the left of the oil filler cap in the picture. I would leave the oil and fuel filter until the weather's better! :)

Performance on Ice/snow is all down to the tyres fitted.

:) "Easy start" spray - the quickest way to ruin a diesel engine, it can ruin a piston in next to no time. I'm surprised they used it! I think you need a new battery.....and a new air filter....and probably a new fuel filter (when was it last changed?) Also check the glow plugs are actually operating (measuring voltage on the busbar) and check whether the glow plugs replaced with a reputable brand (Bosch,Beru,NGK) as cheap brands fitted by some back street garages are as good as the faulty ones they took out.

Well as far as the run on pump is concerned - on my Alhambra 1998 Mk1 AHU engine when I turn off the engine there is a quiet hum/buzz that lasts 10 secs or more from the engine compartment. My car had all the bells and whistles fitted which included a "winter pack" - heated seats, heated windscreen, etc.

I think it does - I can usually hear a hum from the engine bay after its turned off and I cant see how water could be reliably circulated otherwise by the engine coolant pump alone. Perhaps someone can check on the service CD (forgot name)

Possibly it never fired up due to glow plug failure or a metering pump fault(the wires/connections to this are extremely flimsy). Did the exhaust get hot? (Watch those pinkys!) - If it did the could be failed a aux water pump not pumping water to aux heater (brushes gone). Or if you don't have enough antifreeze then maybe the aux heater pipes are frozen and blocked. IIRC the heater will try(cycle) 3 times before shutting down permanently. On the MK1 i.e. yours, switching off the ignition resets it. On the Mk2 the lockout needs to be reset by diagnostics/VAGCOM. Doubt its freezing fuel - Winter diesel is good to below -18 deg C.

The pads are probably sticking to the disc which rusts slightly when wet and stood. The rear parking brake arrangement is prone to sticking on so the pads are never fully released. First, the handbrake mechanism/cables needs checking/lubricating. (there is a spring at the end of the centre handbrake cable that often comes adrift). However the most likely reason is a sticking parking actuator(s) or piston(s) in the rear caliper(s). If you can get the rear wheels off, clean the calipers thoughly then try to lubricate (WD40 etc) the parking lever where it goes into the caliper and work it free so it comes back to the mechanical stop each time. Don't get any oil on the pads or discs though. Use Brake cleaner to clean all the disc/pad area. The real fix is to strip down the calipers or replace them entirely.

Some people always moan..... :unsure: perhaps its something to do with the temperature? :angry2:

Sounds very much as you should avoid this garage at all costs. What a load of baloney!

Sher is not the OP, Zorgman........different story :o

I'm sure there is a post recently that details the gasket failure in these faulty servos - can't remember though if he said it was possible to repair or not.

Sounds like a faulty connection either a crimp or earth connection. Get the connections on the main leads to the battery checked - particularly the negative lead to the earth/distribution point I believe a number of people have had a problem there. Also check the leads to the main power distribution fusebox - its common to have a faulty crimp - tell tale signs will be of overheating/melting. The offending lead needs to be replaced not just tightened up as the crimp is faulty. Dont rule out a faulty battery or alternator - its easy to get them checked.

Doesnt look like any remote that I've seen for the shalaxy....

Hopping - usually shock asorbers. Drifting - possibly "crabbing" due to bad alignment (yes...its non adjustable)caused by a sideways bang on a kerb as previously suggested. Or maybe its just crap tyres which may also explain the uneven wear. What make/model/size and LOAD INDEX are they and are you running the correct pressures? Also its possible youve got asymetrical tyres that are put on the wrong way (look for the word inside or outside on the wall of the tyre)

Look here to get the general idea - I'm sure theres some pics on the forum as well. Yes Timing is critical. More

I'm not sure if the wiper is O/S but it seems that the O/S is the side with most problems.

If you can take the rocker cover off, examine the camlobes that drive the rollers for the injectors for scoring/wear.

Check wiring in (o/s) rubber gaitor between tailgate and body for broken wires. Common problem. Washer pump is in engine bay so thats why it works.

Are your tyres properly inflated? - the fronts should be ~36psi (even more if they are the standard skinny 195 tyres) - rears at least 32 psi - more if you carry a load. The tyre pressures are on a sticker on the inside of the fuel filler flap. Just a thought As you indicated that your car hadn't been serviced very well by its previous owners (state of air filter etc) then its possible it had wrong oil type used which may have damaged the injector cams - the consequence is poor running and economy..... I too get 55mpg+ in summer (slow driving) falling to just under 50mpg in winter - mine is a 90bhp Tdi with 110k on the clock. From what I read, these old hat Tdis are the most reliable and economical engines that VW ever made. The PDs were a variable bunch and the new CR engines are downright terrible as far as economy is concerned (compared to manufacturers claims)

Carefully pull back the rubber gaitor(s)between the tailgate and body and the problem is usually obvious - broken wires and perished insulation/corroded exposed copper. This happens where the wires flex - the wire used is poor quality and not suitable for its application not to mention not overly generous on length (i.e. tight). It affects the tailgate and all doors and leads to lights/locks/windows/locking not working. Sometimes the exposed wires short and real wierd things happen such as windows opening mysteriously by themselves! There are two threads in the FAQ on the subject.

It applies to both Mk1 and Mk2 and the pictures are from a Mk1 Check the wiring in the rear tailgate rubber gaitors - they snap and the insulation drops off - known common problem. Is the engine running cold? In which case the problem may be the thermostat.

:16:

I would start at looking at the Technical FAQ - door card removal Maybe you should first check with your insurer if your cover includes side glass breakage, for instance Tesco Insurance covers all glass (Tesco value insurance does not). It usually doesnt effect no claims discount.

The advice is ....strong pull/tug ....its a tight fit....don't be scared.