seatkid

Dont know much about autos, but maybe if you disconnect the battery for a minute, this might reset the learnt settings in the gearbox ecu. Don't forget that you will need to reset the radio code if you disconnect the battery.

I really doubt you have an alternator problem with the issues you describe. The fact it got better when you removed the fusebox panel would suggest the fault is in that area, possibly with a relay and/or the wiring around that area - its very hard to diagnose electrical faults over the internet but I would take the unit apart again and remove and clean the contact of the relays and fuses. Are any fault codes being registered? There have been quite a few cases of loose connections on the back of the fuse and relay carriers in the fusebox.

IMO you're wasting your time/money on diagnostics - I doubt it will tell you anything at all or at most the unit is dead. Try stripping the control unit down until you've got the PCB out. You may see corrosion or water damage or even that its still wet. Use a solvent cleaner (brake cleaner aerosol is good) and a old toothbrush to thoroughly clean the pcb and allow it to dry for a couple of hours at least. Inspect for solder joint damage/ dry joints - you may need to resolder. Check your connectors also. Dont forget to check for blown fuses (in the fusebox)as well

He probably forgot to reconnect the switch on the geaqbox when he removed it to fit your DMF.

On the Mk 1 they are located in the well under the seat (drivers I think) - you need to remove the carpet/cover to open the well and yes they are tucked away to one side.

Relay 30 is the fuel pump relay in a petrol engined car!! Flickering lights are usually wiring related or a faulty alternator. Start by checking the main fuse distribution box in the engine compartment - it is common to have a faulty crimp on the heavy cable from the alternator at the fuse box end and this causes it to overheat/start melting and then exhibit all manner of electrical problems. Another problem area is the earth connection from the battery to the bodywork. It could be the alternator brushes are near the end of their life and you're getting occasional loss of voltage regulation when the brushes don't make good contact with the rotor. Not sure, but it should be able to remove the regulator/brushes to check they are not worn out or stuck.

1. The bottom hose rarely gets warm as a Tdi is so efficient it doesn't produce much waste heat. Only in hot weather and/or high speed/load does the radiator get hot to the extent that bottom hose is hot. So if the temp gauge is showing normal there is nothing to worry about. Probably you changed the thermostat for no reason. 2. Don't keep topping up! As I said unless the level drops way below minimum (i.e 1 - 2cm below, then top up to halfway between min and max) - when the engine heats up, the coolant expands/rises and anything above max level is thrown out. Check your level when the engine is cool and after you released any pressure. Its normal for some residual pressure to remain when the engine cools and releasing this causes the level to rise as there are a lot of flexible rubber water hoses about in the Shalaxy. With faulty gasket/ cracked head usually you would lose lots and lots of water and there would be obvious signs of overheating (running way hot on the temperature gauge and a hot radiator/bottom hose)

Presumably your engine is a PD.... Common fault that causes juddering is a faulty injector wiring loom or connectors to the injectors. Sometimes just cleaning the connectors clears the fault.

Blimey!! :angry: Looks as I'll have to hang onto mine for another 50 years then!!! Problem is ,it rarely does.

Had a look at one. Expensive. Big - too big for my (larger than average) garage. :( Too many things I dont like on the diesel (that go wrong). Including an Adblue system that needs refilling every 5000 miles by dealer for

I find all the VAG cars I've owned the water always vents until it drops to the min mark. So it sounds normal, dont bother topping up much above the min level. The rising/hissing is just releasing the pressure and shows the cap is doing its job and you dont have a leak (when cold). Only get concerned if the level drops more than a couple of cm below the min mark.

Unlikely I would have thought (but see below) first check those O rings as they are sometimes lost when the fuel filter is changed. Having said that, I didnt notice any O rings on my Mk 1 filter(wasnt looking for them when I changed the filter). Its easy to remove the big clip that holds down the T piece and just lift the T piece up with the two pipes still connected. common causes for judder/misfire on PD engines include:- faulty injector wiring loom or dodgy connectors to injectors - sometimes just cleaning them fixes this. worn camlobes on injector camshaft due to incorrect (non-PD spec) oil being used could also be faulty injector or fuel pump usually as a result of misfuelling (putting petrol instead of diesel in tank) BTW I assume you have a PD engined Mk2 (post 2000) Might also be a faulty DMF

Mk 2 Fuel filter (from Chris) )

Looking from the front of the engine towards the back of the vehicle. Right hand pipe to rear of car. Middle pipe to front of car. T piece is on the left. Dont think it matters which way round that goes. (if theres an arrow on the t piece then that would point to the back) On a mK2 the r/h pipe goes to the tandem fuel pump on the engine which is a dual fuel/vac pump. On the mk1 it goes straight to the injector pump. Mk1 photo

Correct, there is no electric or mechanical fuel pump in the Mk1 just the injector pump. Are you feeding the new diesel direct to the injector pump? I think the most likely scenario is the veggie oil has separated and the wax/fat settled and solidified either in a supply line, in the injector pump or injectors/lines due to low temperature. You could try warming the pump etc with a hair dryer (don't go mad though) to melt the fat, then retry, but use a clean direct supply of diesel to the pump itself as your supply lines may be clogged. If he's still got some of the veggie oil left, put some in a jar and put it in a fridge and see if it separates. You can experiment to see what it takes to clear the wax/fat (heat, a bit of petrol perhaps etc). Small possibility that the seals have been damaged in the injector pump though I don't think it would stop it working completely all at once. Of course it might not be fuel related fault at all......... good luck.

Just make sure it a PD oil and meets spec VW 505.01, 506.01 or 507.00 (DO NOT USE Oils to 505.00 or 506.00)

I dont think this is a gaitor problem. OP says manual operation of central locking is ok. Unfortunately its the first symptom of a failing keyfob. Many people (including myself) have suffered this. Despite my best efforts to fault find, I think you will find your keyfob eventually stops triggering the central locking for good despite the led in the fob working. Only solution is to buy a new fob - check its the exact type and freq for your model before you do.

www.gsfcarparts.com www.eurocarparts.com www.vwspares.co.uk www.thetradepartsspecialists.co.uk

Probably just his fuel filter blocked.

Could also be bacterial growth in the heater/ac matrix due to blocked drains and not being allowed to dry out (i.e. constant a/c use). The cure is to clear/unblock the drain pipe(s) and use one of those a/c antibacterial treatments (involves filling the car with toxic gas I believe) A cheaper less drastic solution maybe to use Dettol antibac air spray and spray into the heater (turn on recirc mode and spray liberally into passenger footwell upwards) - though you still need top make sure those drains are clear.

Agreed, WD40 is not the all in one wonder product that many believe (mainly from the exaggerated claims of the manufacturer) - its basically just a light penetrating (fish) oil that has very little lubrication quality and dries out/disappears quickly.

You can spin a couple of nuts on on the end of the thread and lock them together, then use these to hold the cable while undoing the rusty nut. A cable must have stretched and possibly about to give way (one which goes to the calipers). Not usual to adjust cable lengths - only needed when new ones installed. Check the t piece is square when the handbrake is on to identify the faulty cable.

Usually its a dry solder joint.

If you're certain the keys haven't lost the PATS chip in them (usually when opening them up to replace the batteries) then you need to do this. 1. When you turn the ignition on (don't crank the engine) you should hear the fuel pump (which is in the fuel tank) turn on briefly for about 2 seconds as it primes the fuel system. Its a quietish buzz/shushing noise. If you cant hear this then a duff relay 30 (fuel pump relay) could be the culprit. 2. pull off one of the spark plug leads and using bits of wire etc check you get a spark when turning the engine over. If not, could be distributor or coil pak.