seatkid

Except I'm prone to forget to check and sometimes start the car without the clutch in! OOPS! :lol: Oh s**t! :rolleyes:

Well blow me down! I stand corrected :rolleyes: You learn something new every day..... :lol:..Glasshopper... ;) ...you have much to learn..B) Of course....(sound of penny dropping).....silly me... Turbo wastegate (or vvt - 110 bhp) is operated by vacuum (via a solenoid). Hence no vacuum (or serious leak) = no turbo blow! BTW the turbo sensor measures boost pressure and is not in vacuum circuit. Anyway when vacuum system is working correctly, operating the brakes wont affect turbo..

SA, I agree wholeheartedly - ignorance is bliss? B) Dealers are another matter - they should know what they're doing?????... :rolleyes: Of course, those that don't keep their cars very long aren't too bothered. Maybe thats why I would think long and hard before buying second hand... :lol:

Still prefer real O.E. pads... Getting back to the subject of the thread. What SA said about hot brakes and parking brakes seems to ring true. The other night returned from a mates where I would be using brakes more than other runs i.e. got hotter. Noticed as I parked up, that parking brake was a good click tighter. In my case, one click was firm on and I could hardly manage two clicks. I think I'm getting to the bottom of this fast wear issue......

My waffle on fuel consumption....I love this subject ;) B) Don't read too much into your measurement..... To even get a "reasonably accurate" fuel consumption you need to be absolutely meticulous about your measurement technique. You could run full tank to full tank. But determining if you have a full tank is difficult with the Shalaxy as you can sometimes get as much as 20 litres more into it after the first nozzle cut offs. If you're not holding the nozzle exactly at the right angle the nozzle cuts off real early (due to splash back). So do you know exactly how much fuel you used? I doubt it. The fuel indicator is somewhat misleading (non linear) Do it say over at least three to four tanks and work out the average to get a much more accurate figure. Or maybe try running until the fuel warning light just comes on (and stays on on a level bit) - then fill up (say 65 litres) and see how far you go until the fuel warning light just comes on again (and stays on on a level bit) - you'll have used that 65 litres more or less. Again averaging helps. Of course the simpler way is to use the fuel computer if you have one. I find it surprisingly accurate and you don't make mistakes so easily. My two Alhambras gave very similar figures and agree well with Govt figures etc. What I read (tests, other users) also leads me to believe there is little variation from (diesel) vehicle to vehicle - the VW engines are that consistent. How you drive is the BIG factor - slow relaxed driving (< 55 mph) = 50mpg+ easy, Motorway cruising (70-75mph) = 40-45mpg but now depends on prevailing winds, whether your going uphill or downhill to your destination etc (I'm not joking - it makes a surprising difference). Once you start going much above 75mph the brick wall effect comes in and consumption plummets and its easy to get down to low 30's. :rolleyes: Nerdy bit Sad person that I am, my first alhambra I kept meticulous records of fuel bought etc. and plotted them on a spreadsheet. You could draw all sorts of interesting conclusions....e.g. about the benefits of synthetic oil, improvements due to running in and the most obvious - effect of average speed. Given up that habit with my second when I noticed almost identical figures. Couldnt really see that aux heater or aircon made a great deal of difference to overral figures though. Yes, diesels are noisy when started from cold (diesel knock) and take a few seconds or more to settle down as the combustion temperatures rise. 2 things to help - make sure to observe the glow plug delay before starting - these engines are very good at starting but if you wait for the glow plug light to go out before starting they will quieten somewhat quicker. Or keep it in a warm garage (my preferred option) p.s. 1st alhambra started first time several times after being stood overnight in -22 deg C :D . The glow plug light stayed on for ages, and it was a bit noisier than normal for 2 - 3 minutes! Wished I had heated seats in that car!!! pps maximum I did on a (very) full tank? Around 825 miles I think, let me dig out that spreadsheet......... :lol: Oh! and to answer your question, this time of year and similar mix of motoring? Around 44mpg (fuel computer running total average figure) dont spend much time stood in traffic though..

Sounds most likely an ignition problem. When its idling rough, pull off one spark lead from its plug (warning, make sure they're dry - you might get a kick! - Wear rubber gloves if youre a nervous type). if the engine roughness increases dramatically or it stalls - that plug/lead/coil is most likely OK. Reconnect lead and continue for other three leads...until...If there is little or no change in roughness, you found the faulty plug/lead/coil. To eliminate the lead, pull off at either end and bodge up a bit of cable (mains cable will do) between coil and plug. Retry engine. If that dont do nothing then carefully lift (use insulated pliers) the wire off spark plug end and hold near engine block (metal bit please) - do you get a nice fat blue spark? (1 cm) - if you dont get anything or a feeble red/orange tick its the coil. Otherwise plug. If plugs havent been changed in a while, change them all. You might be unlucky and have 2 faults, which can sometimes be tricky to find. Plugs/leads favourite candidates.

It under the front window (passenger side). It can get wet from too much water coming down the window and not draining away fast enough. Fire hose?? :rolleyes: if thats one of those high pressure high volume jobs you might even damage radiator/condensor/fan/other bits in which case a wet filter would be nothing! Also the engine air intake is tucked up in the front grille! :lol:

Fredt, you're right and you're wrong! :rolleyes: Tried your suggestion - yes the power drops, but this is due to the ECU cutting power as others suggest. Most likely triggered from brake switch(es) and throttle input. Some safety issue must be the reason, most likely if the throttle input develops a fault leading to a stuck part or full setting, it may also be because of some issue with ABS operation. Strange they don't do it with handbrake.. On a similar tack, my 96 TDi, when accelerating hard through the gears, used to hold the revs for a second when you dipped the clutch, which led to clean (and stress free) changes. :lol: Doesn't happen with my 98 Tdi though. ;) Which leads me to repeat - I don't think brake vacuum pipes would affect engine performance or running. B)

Yes I've noticed this for some time. But also be aware that one part may be cheaper at one dealer and another part at another dealer etc. Shalaxy owners also have the luxury of shopping around Ford/VW/Seat dealers (but watch out for those few different bits) For Example (not the exact prices - cant remember off hand) Back in 2001 I was quoted something like Fog lamp unit - Ford dealer,

;) OOF! :rolleyes: What a mess! What engine was that? Presumably it was a scrapper. How old was belt/tensioner went it went? (automatic) tensioners cost a lot more than the belts and seem not to be a long lasting component. B) Seems to me it would have been preferable to have the old manual tensioner but then again how many dealers ever checked and adjusted those? :lol:

:rolleyes: :unsure: Dave, there are somethings in life you should never discuss lest....... :o

:o In that case they've used the wrong oil matey :o PD engines require oil to VW 505.01 spec which even at trade costs more than you paid for the entire service! Cheap but not so cheerful :rolleyes: No doubt they used a champion filter as well! :unsure:

Well worked out! :unsure: duzego auta = big car maly wus = small car Quite boring really, though she usually appends (in Polish) " I hate that car " to the Golfs name - a reference to the internal size and the fact shes always hits her head when she gets out! :rolleyes:

:unsure: Ok I'll give it a try tomorrow. But whats the connection? Is the vacuum pump used for anything else? I would have thought for safety reasons, the brake vacuum circuit was exclusive. Braking gently as you describe would cause very little rise in brake servo vacuum pressure, isn't this more likely to be an ECU response to seeing the brake applied (from brake switch). BTW my brake servo "loses" its vacuum when parked up in about 2-3 hours (pedal goes hard) - Seat dealer told me this was normal :rolleyes: All other cars I know still have vacuum even left overnight!

Also try http://www.vwspares.co.uk/alhambra_filters.html Why use a carbon filter? They are useful for removing smells and pollution only. Save yourself

PD engine (115bhp) or old TDi engine?

Depends on your definition of normally. I would expect original pads to last 40,000. Aftermarket brands probably only 20,000. Inspect brake pads regularly (at least 10,000 miles) and you will soon work it out. Discs need to be inspected and changed if necessary too. There are some threads on brake wear in technical section..

Can't see that brake vacuum pipes having any bearing on engine power problem, athough this is a serious safety issue and you should change them if they are damaged or leak. Has fuel filter been changed recently? Check all other pipes to inlet, turbo etc etc. Maybe try disconnecting battery (- terminal) for a minute and reconnecting to reset the ecu (You will need to reset the radio code) - otherwise looking like a MAF.. :rolleyes:

Does the sound come from under nearside passenger door? (Starts sometime after engine starts ) - this is the auxillary (booster) heater. It only cuts in in cold weather during the engine warm up period and makes a turbo whine constant pitch - normal. Or does it come from the engine bay (turbocharger :rolleyes: oh dear) - changes pitch with engine speed. Remote chance could be a belt or alternator.

see http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/Forum/index.p...pic=1310&st=0 that would put me off...

Its probably been changed :rolleyes: as (i think) the engines are assembled in germany (vw plant) - you should check out the FSH with a Ford dealer - everything should be detailed on their computer (all the parts used etc.) The TENSIONER MUST BE REPLACED when the cambelt is changed. Ford instruction nr.213040 - Changing Timing Belt - does not specifically state that the tensioner should be replaced and I suspect that is why dealers sometimes don't do it. But the service checksheet clearly state replacement is required (along with any idlers) and Ford issued a TSB stressing that the tensioner MUST be replaced. TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN No.020/2001 Car and Light/Medium Commercial 08.03.2001 Section: 303-01D (21) Model: Galaxy '95 and 2000.75 Galaxy with 1.9L TDI engine (engine codes ANU and AUY) Markets: All Subject: Installing the timing belt tensioner, change to the tightening torque of the timing belt tensioner nut Summary During repair work on the engine or when installing a new timing belt tensioner, the timing belt tensioner nut must be tightened to a revised torque. Note: A new timing belt tensioner must always be installed. DO NOT install a used timing belt tensioner. The relevant procedures in the Workshop Manual/TIS-CD will be amended to include this new information at the next update. 1. Remove the timing belt according to Operation Number 21 304 0 (Workshop Manual/TIS-CD). 2. Remove and discard the timing belt tensioner. 3. Install the timing belt. WARNING: Use suitable insulating tape to cover the sharp edged cutting part of the drill bit. Failure to observe this instruction can lead to injury. Note: Install a new timing belt tensioner. Note: Use a new 4 mm drill bit. 4. Install the timing belt tensioner. 1 Turn the eccentric on the timing belt tensioner clockwise, until the drill bit can be inserted. 2 Tighten the timing belt tensioner in two stages. Stage 1: 20 Nm Stage 2: 45 degrees 5. Install all other components in reverse order.

So what other makes/models are these parts used on? So are they underrated? 80% front 20% rear braking effort?

I think someone at the AA service centre is pulling your leg :) Could be one (or maybe two if your unlucky) of a long list: Electrical faults: Plugs/leads/coil/ecu Fuel system:Filter/pump/fuel injection system Engine damage: cambelt timing/burnt/bent valves Don't drive it if it is erratic, (not firing on all 4 cylinders), you could easily damage your catalytic converter ( :D very expensive....)

Still thinking about this one... :)