seatkid

Well done and thanks for letting us know as solutions give the most valuable information on this forum.

Sorry to hear your having problems len. The solutions are all here on this forum if you decide to carry on when the bruised knuckles heal. I think your starting issues are a combination of (mainly) timing (incorrect belt installation or a slipped timing pulley) and a bodged glowplug circuit by a DIY fixer. The gear issue could be broken selector cables or ends (gearlever or gearbox end) or the selector lever bolt. Searching the forum will reveal all you need to know, I'm sure.

OK, I'm wrong. Its a thermal switch used for one of three possible purposes.... (11C) 357 919 369 F thermal switch for vehicles with electric fan 3 stages 112C 20MM 2 pin black/green 1 automatic: AFN,ADY,AVG engines (11C) 357 919 369 F thermal switch for vehicle use in warm climates 112C 20MM 2 pin green/black 1 manual gearbox (11C) 357 919 369 E thermal switch for vehicles with air condit.112/119C 20MM 112/108C 4 pin brown 3 stages So if it has a brown connector and 4 pins then its something to do with the air conditioning.... see http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au/au.mycat?SelPg&t=JSdDFuwnQxarJ0MWZ30rLxRmGjB2fs30vVlDFhV4wyYlJ0FpxQVHGiURBQ4lB0OcLHJ8MAwb3YL15ysi8f1rF4UmBW7pVpOPg3zm6dtaBbpuzivsllgz59SNwv6VF2PXmQ16U/E9w9fP98hainUxTmxFpYaOtRqz//DmPQ4rtHAF6Bcg/HQAhZSWwRvpR8wT_bYNAgEE_7A6pw==

Ratchet is the adjustment mechanism. Should be a one way system. The 4 pin device has two switches, one goes to the brake lights, the other to the ecu (for various uses inc cruise control cancel)

Coolant temp sensor. Also affects diesel injection timing so starting and running. Possibly disconnected if the sensor is faulty.

According to this http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au/au.mycat?SelPg&t=EjCLKdgwiymdMIspUGrjECNx0g9Baap/UpaLKT1vCxkSMIlW8hKPJRIGzTESEIujH2R3M7bNzLwUIREkJqvBKXowuOjCcA88XozewubclUfx1F4yexX2MFIMh_lyrVf3M9jpOLo8oeZ2hEHfDDuPcZF8LC2EZfkZ6_I/egW7WTsUcf1orNoV7uPg90kD8E0o/m1CPfNyy6xLMhM= Its either 191 945 515 B (if 2 pin switch) or 1J0 945 511 A (if 4 pin switch) Search on ebay, e.g. the first one is available cheap from Lincolnaudi (via ebay) Try GSF car parts - tip - their ebay store is usually cheaper

Step 1. determine if there is gas in the system When kwikfit filled the a/c you should have got (or asked for) a printout from the a/c machine. This will have told you how much gas was extracted (if there was any in to start off with), whether the vacuum hold test was succesfull (no leak detected) and if the vaccum test was sucessful, how much refrigerant was put in (in kg) and oil (ml). With this bit of paper you can see 1) If they put in the correct amount of refrigerant - too much or too little will stop the system working 2) if the problem is a leak which can be anything fom a hole in the condensor to a leaking dryer or compressor or pipework Step 2. After seeing you have the correct amount of refrigerant - then its likely the compressor is not engaging. This can be because of a compressor clutch fault, wiring fault, fuse, temperature sensor(s) or pressure switch fault. At this stage its highly recommended you get hold of a code reader (e.g. VAGCOM/VCDS) which may give you a clue straightaway and give you the error code associated with the flashing panel (which indicates a fault is present) Other relevant information needed We also need to know the engine fitted as Ford petrol engines have an extra deicing switch mounted on the evaporator. And whether your car has the rarer true dual zone climate control - that is one fitted with overhaed roof vents in the passenger compartment and only one opening rear quarter window - not to be confused with the standard dual temperature control LCD unit fitted to all climate models. This variant requires more refrigerant than the standard unit. (the higher of the 2 figures on the sticker next to the bonnet latch.)

As silverbeast says, you wont get a voltage drop until you draw current. Also dicky connectors (A pillar and the fuse carrier spade connectors) wont probably show up with resistance readings as poor connections and/or corrosion behave like non-linear semiconductors when passing current. THe way to find the problem was to measure the voltage with the switch pressed/ignition on/motor stalled. Negative to chassis and positive to the circuit, working out from the fuse (try both sides) and then the A pillar connector (again both sides), when you see a sharp drop indicates the faulty point or section. As you've put in a new wire to solve the issue, its highly likely its a loose spade connector on the fuse carrier (known issue)

Possibly a poor connection at the door A pillar - remove connector/clean/refit (see faqs for how to) Also check fuse/fuse carrier and possibly the spade connectors to the rear of the fuse carrier. Using a multimeter should be able to determine where the volt drop (bad connection) is.

Post a picture of the switch and we can see...

Redex Petrol Treatment 2.5ml of Redex per 1L of fuel £20 ~ 15L 15 x 2.5ml = 37.5ml = approx 1/6 250ml bottle Dont expect instant or life changing results - at best it cleans up your injectors/fuel system over several fill-ups which may or may not improve running/mpg a little bit. A lot of people consider additives a waste of money. http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/car-news/33200/fuel-additives-are-waste-money Personally I do use something like this (Millers ECOmax) on my petrol cars once every few months just to clean up the gum that accumulates in the fuel system and the carbon on the injectors/piston crowns/valve stems. I have faith that it works - although no proof that it does.

Whats that thing on your roof above the windscreen? If you have a sunroof, the drainage tubes go down the A pillar and are known to get blocked. http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au/au.mycat?SelPg&t=1yKufR0irn1YIq59lXjGROZj91uEewL_Iduuffh9Lk3XIqwCNwCqcdcU6GXXAq733nZ3T5tLprnJoeLUanHurHciHRpv4eb1jtQHkgRQ3yVR/Seix7fZMH57qPhVJnzsFxecmRpiLyWbJEuUZ_IWsVMp5h5SefI4mk8qvj3t6jfkNrXkylY8oS1dieFZVMleLwxK96eDjyTQz1w=

No, its not right, there is no such button I know of. Sounds as if someone has fitted a manual glowplug switch. There should be no need for this as glowplug operation should be automatic, but he probably had a fault that he couldnt fathom so jerry rigged a switch. Lack of glowplugs would give difficult starting with white smoke initially when starting. Almost impossible to start in winter without glowplugs working.... Most diesel variants are fitted with an aux heater - nothing to do with engine starting though and again automtically controlled after the engine is started, in cold (< 5deg) conditions, it takes a minute or so to get going and provides extra heat to the coolant circuit so the heaters in the car work quicker. Its located under the car infront of the rear nearside wheel. It sounds like a jet engine when it starts.

Have you checked the fuses - require model year and engine variant for further help. Also is it dual zone climate control (with roof vent in passenger area (rare) - standard climate control (LCD panel with front/rear temp control) or manual (rotary dials).

Look here for fuel filter mounting http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au/au.mycat?SelPg&t=HDDbC9Qw2wuMMNsLXmqzMi1xgi1PaeUUFY7bCzPvWzscMNl0/BLfBxwGnRMcENuCEWMPx4/FwS2cPP5EWpHBkQYq1qIUm4sjSD4vnFjfb/MLSc62goaYqDAbyYt4Ft4PPzQeqQZFgI4ZjciuSW/oBkU1LoFcn98TxleVkFf2aHxCnU0/6L7jjsDKqTf4gTfFWvBgmTXyX4rsyJb7 A bracket (Item 13) is held onto the rear of the lower battery box by two bolts which are part of the bracket. The cradle (item 22) clips into item 13. Just about see one of the bolts here (blurry) behind the battery. Here you should be able to see the cradle mounted on the bracket (mine is broken and held together with a tywrap) As far as air bubbles in fuel line - have you checked the T piece in the fuel filter has an O ring fitted and its not worn or damaged?

Try reposting in the Mk3 section.

Are you sure its not fuel slopping about in the tank? The fuel makes quite a noise when manouvering at slow speed as it slops around hitting the internal baffles. Stick a long thin screwdriver/rod up the drain holes here.....

The spill lines should look like this The fuel filter cradle is fixed to the back of the plastic box that surrounds the lower half of the battery and goes under the expansion tank.

Mk1 Diesel engines (1Z,AHU,AFN) have a rotary fuel distributor pump. Easy to see on the front of the block - just follow the metal pipes from the injectors down to it. MK1 (AHU fuel pump) Mk2 diesel engines are PD (pumpe duse) engines using unit injector technology. Mk2 engines also have a fuel lift pump (located in the fuel tank) and a tandem fuel pump which I think is located on the end of the cylinder head. Mk2 tandem fuel pump http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au/au.mycat?SelPg&t=kVwDe1hcA3sCXAN70wZrQqAdWl3CBba47OEDe6ADg0uRXAEEcX4Hd5FqRWORfAPxF/Z93HhpPlJp_MAzrB0rKGRMGU_RVtravXCBHuSyREfO/b9GyiVn00iEtbDlX8MksT4fu9V7sczcd107VAYSUr4IJBlozNNBm5NPvoPViOjojL5sHCZC9/nChLppcnFj52_RBBrlIee5FFmaL4KD

Try a vigorous "italian tune up" first to exercise/free up the vane actuator mechanism??

Its actually item 16 on that diagram, its a special bolt that has a geared shoulder that engages in the rack cast on the mounting plate. Slacken the nut on the other side,and the other nuts mounting the pump and tighten/loosen the belt by turning the bolt head, then tighten the nuts to lock in that position.

K191 Crypto Transponder Relay (Immobiliser) Heres the circuit and location (for cars built after 2000.9) Could also be a faulty starter solenoid or wiring or dicky ignition switch (known to happen). Needs a multimeter to check the circuit voltages when attempting a (non-functioning) start

Is the car a manual or automatic? (auto neutral inhibit switch) Has the key been opened at any time? (PATS chip fell out) - have you tried the spare key? (in case it did)

Does the dash light up and remain bright when you try to start or does it go all dim?

Check the wires in the rubber gaitors to the doors/tailgate, broken and shorted wires are a known common problem. See Faqs, Common Questions And Solutions 31. Examining wires in door to pillar rubber boot 43. Detailed instructions for Reparing wires in Door gaiters 44. Soldering Instruction Guide, Joining And Splicing Properly