seatkid

B) Well, there you have it. A lesson for us all inc myself.. RTFM! :D :D

:o Some of you out there just get too serious at times! :P My comments (somewhat glib admittedly) were purely my "opinion". The 2 incidents reported by Playpen are probably not connected. IMO, An egg shaped bulge on the sidewall indicates the delaminating of the rubber and plies. I cannot imagine any kerbing incident that would be enough to compromise sidewall plies. An inspection of the tyre on removal might have revealed more. The only sidewall bulges I've seen have been on cheap and nasty tyres (some remoulds). Blow outs happen, but usually either because of wrong inflation pressure or more often driving over something that causes it. Again an examination should reveal the cause. :) Maybe next doors dog has a particularly potent pee.. :)

Thats the line Bridgestone took against the Ford Motor company..... (link) But then I suppose Mike Schumacher thinks they're OK

In urdu? اایندھن

HOLD ON THERE! The diode pack is not the voltage regulator. The diode pack is buried deep in the alternator and is soldered to the stator windings. I think it unlikely that you will get a new diode pack and unless youve got maufacturing facilities I dont think you'll be able to change them anyway. In any case, from the evidence, your alternator has been cooked with a short circuit - by the time the diode packs blew, the rotor and stator would have been stinking hot and there is likely to be damage to the windings etc. The only question is, are you confident that the garage is correct with their diagnosis?

First check your fluid levels, oil and water. Does it lose water? Then the first suspects are thermostat and water pump. Try the stat first as its the cheap and quick option.

Check your rad first, but if the oil temp is up to 150 deg. it looks very sick - like something terminal..... I take it you have got enough oil and its been changed in the last 10,000 miles?

Bridgestone tyres - aren't they made in Hong Kong? Get yourself some decent tyres.

And change the air filter! (a la blatters..)

Methinks after burning up the main cables that a new alternator is probably a good idea :D

Dellboyt, You've more chance of getting 50mpg out of your motor than him sorting out that seized engine... i.e. none :D

heater element went on my seat (under warranty).....they are replaceable

Serves you right for driving it for a minute without oil pressure! ;) probably anything can be rebuilt - at a price.....

Correct! :P Coming from you I expect better! :o 1. Alternators fitted to VW units have a fixed Voltage regulator - they regulate the output of the alternator to give between approx 14.3-14.5V regardless of load. It varies a little with temperature/current/age/initial build. 2. Batteries, even when flat only take a limited amount of current to reach 14.3V usually 10-20 amps or less. Its a self protecting characteristic of lead acid batteries. A flat battery therefore needs current to be applied for a long time to recharge fully. You cannot charge a lead acid battery quickly without it exploding! 3. Alternators cannot provide maximum rated output until they are spinning at a rated speed. I would guess that your alternator would be able to provide maximum current at 2000 rpm+ (engine speed). At idle the max output may only be 25%. 4. I don't think alternator outputs are output protected - if you overload them for long enough - something will blow - they may have some form of simple thermal protection though ;) 5. Max outputs are short term limits. probably not, but the alternator may not take revs above its maximum design, both mechanically and electrically.

girls blouse.....:) looks like I have to get my camera out again.... :)

The relay is stuck. (welded contacts at a guess) You must remove it....or pay the piper (

Cabin, in the footwell by the pedal..... Pipes can look Ok but still be split....

Remove the rear bulb and see if the others go out. If so then the rear bulb was not fitted correctly or is faulty.

First thing first, Get your melting cables sorted first before silly little things like MAFs...... Good luck :)

If the "performance goes" (no turbo boost) along with your brakes going hard then you have a vacuum leak. The vacuum works the brakes and the turbo boost control. 1. Look in the footwell at the rod going into the footwell. There is a rubber flap valve that sits over the end at the servo. If this is damaged or distorted, it leaks air. maybe something trapped in there. 2. Check through all the vacuum piping and joints - replace all suspect bits. The vacuum pipe to the servo unit itself is known to split. 3. Its then down to the servo itself - but I think this is unlikely you'll get to this step....

It a small cylindrical can stat located in front of the pollen filter. Just short it out (a car fuse fits fine apparently) and your heater should fire up when the coolant temp is low (thats a different sensor built into the heater unit)

Wow! I missed that....typical ebay.... :blink: Well you don't need the housing if you use the old one, but for a few quid more these look like complete units (I think...please check) :( Hold on here!!....don't take any posts by me here as a recomendation though! I class Ebay in the same league as a carboot sale. Lots of dodgy geezers.... its time to go to bed....

IIRC I paid

Well that does it I reckon! The date on the label has been tampered with (and it was on the ebay photo) to remove the year - I reckon it says 22-Aug-02. If you take the label to a Ford dealer he may be able to help confirm this (bar code and order info)