seatkid

:blink: I have this feeling of deja vu...(yet again) :blink: .....

This is strongest evidence yet of climate change.... :D

First of all, if you had a problem within a couple of days of buying, you should take it back to where you bought it and complain.... :D Second, "normal" oil temperatures for a Tdi can be anywhere from 95 to 130 deg C dependant on what output the engine is pushing, ambient temperatures etc etc. At 70mph motorway cruising 20 deg C ambient expect between 110 and 125 deg C. From the manual - " The engine speed should be reduced if the oil temperature rises to +145 deg C" Third, the 110bhp Tdi is fitted with an oil pressure warning , not an oil level warning as in later PD engines. If the "Oil can" light is flickering - this means either low oil pressure or a dicky oil pressure switch. Low oil pressure is SERIOUS and will lead to rapid engine wear and failure. This could be due to failing oil pump, the pressure relief valve sticking open (common fault if the oil changes were skipped) or a blockage somehere in the oil system. As the engine warms up, oil thins and oil pressure problems will be more obvious. Could be a sensor, unfortunately I'm inclined to think your car engine bores are worn and your'e not getting enough compression when its warm However dicky oil pressure switches are also common, and they tend to flicker in the way you describe. Try changing the switch, if that doesnt help - get it into a garage - fast. Don't continue to drive around, thinking the problem will just go away.

:D By my calculations..... 130 bhp injectors have larger holes than 90 bhp injectors so only get 90/130ths of the fuel consumption... :D NB :D This is another frivilous SK reply and should not be taken as gospel.......

All together now...... :unsure:

OK, 6 speed = PD The MM test - OIL filter metal can hanging down = 110bhp or 90bhp, 2000 or earlier OIL filter housing pointing up with a big screw on top cover = PD

Does'nt everyone know you can go ages on the first half tank - :unsure: - the second half however disappears in next to no time. :o Fuel gauges are notoriously non linear and can easily fool you.... particularly if you like to brim your tank..... :unsure: :43:

Model years change every August, so a vehicle manufactured in Sep 2000 will be a 2001 model. But don't confuse a first registered (which is what is in the log book) with the manufacture date. Manufacture date is always earlier than the first registered date usually at least two months and maybe as much as 12 months or more! To answer your question - we need the engine number - found.... on the engine....in the logbook.....and on a sticker in the large rear storage compartment. The 3 letters will decide. If the parts dept. and ins. co. come up with 110bhp then I think its likely that the old AFN 110bhp unit is fitted and not the AUY 115bhp PD unit. You would also have a 2000 model as the 110bhp was replaced by the 115bhp PD in the 2001 model. Another clue is the colours of the individual letters on the rear Tdi badge - or is that a VW thing? :unsure: And don't the PD engines have an engine cover with PD in large letters? :unsure:

:10: ....file under "Urban Legends"......next to Dellboyt..... -_-

Probably, depends on road conditions (mainly hills) and wind stength and direction. I am not being frivolous.... at speeds above 70mph the large frontal area seems to endow the Shalaxy with the aerodynamics of a 3 bed semi-detached house.... Drive more slowly Avoid unecessary acceleration Develop an "economic" style of driving Plan ahead e.g. coast to junctions - sometimes though it is more economic to "engine brake" to junctions Switch off A/C - (this automatically happens after 3 years anyway :10: ) Don't hang on in lower gears - get up to your desired speed promptly (not dragster style though) Use low friction oil (PD engines have few options though) You could try BP ultimate or Shell Diesel extra though most will say the mpg benefits are vastly outweighed by the extra cost. Biodiesel does seems to work, but I don't think PD engines are "certified" to run on this. Drive 2 metres or less behind big trucks on the motorway (not recommended -_- ) Smoke and mirrors.... Some swear by them, but they all have the following faults. 1. They break the emission control of the engine (smoke, NOx and particulates). 2. Because of this, the oil get sooted up far quicker reducing its service time, which is often ignored leading to higher engine wear. (would you buy a second car like that?) 3. they do not increase the mpg, quite the opposite. The "apparent" increase in mpg comes about by the fact the ECU still "thinks" it knows the fuelling rate, unaware the tuning box has messed it up and is chucking in barrels more diesel into the engine. 4. Strictly speaking, its illegal. (EU and UK law) 5. They invalidate your insurance unless you specifically declare it to them as a mod. 6. You would be breaking the law if you "hide" the fact that your car was modified in the case of an accident or when selling on without giving the honest history. 7. Plus it makes idiots drive like idiots on steroids. 8. The ones on Ebay cost the seller less than a

If I search hard enough.... :10:

Strip and clean the idle control stabilisation valve and you could also do the throttle body. These being gunged up or worn and sticking will cause the problem. :13: Do a search.....need I say more? B)

The only things that kill bulbs prematurely 1. Overvoltage - unlikely here as other bulbs would blow too - and it takes a lot of overvolts to kill an auto bulb. They are more or less immune to "spikes". 2. Vibration and shock - check the security of the holder and the assembly - is it sloppy? 3. Bad manufacture - have you bought the bulbs from the same place? - Its likely to be a bad batch especially if the filament is being detached at the end - that definitely shouldn't happen/ The name Bosch is no guarantee of quality when it comes to consumables (bulbs,batteries,filters etc) they are generally not actually made by Bosch.... take them back to Halfords and complain, and try a different brand.

Yes, the pipe from the intercooler pipe does in fact disappear down by the brake servo. Not sure, but I think it goes to the ECU, possibly the boost pressure line connected to a pressure sensor in the ECU. When working correctly, the 90bhp will pull 100mph and have no trouble maintaining 90mph uphill. :D

Check plugs and leads first. Also check out coil pack(s) for any sign of external arcing. Next, the air filter then look at lambda probe (with emissions check) then MAF.

Least fuel is used at 0 mph with engine off :D

Make sure the switch hasnt moved in the housing frame. Mine has (due to door repair - incorrect assembly I think). The edge of the rocker then catches the trim and sticks. Solution would be to strip and reassemble properly.

Alternatively you could join the AA / RAC/Greenflag and "breakdown" :D when you are ready to return - the free tow back might save you

Actually, there is, I have several a week, sometimes several a day! And I mean FREE, not inclusive, a perk etc, just a free lunch.... :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :D really? If you get it through work or a client/customer - HMRC (inland Revenue) says it is subject to tax and NI as a benefit.... If you get as part of travel arrangement (airline meal etc) you will have paid for it in the price of the ticket which if it is through work is either by way of payment/entitlement for your work and might be subject to tax and NI If your granny gives it to you, in theory it is a gift which may be taken into account in Inheritance Tax. If you find it in the street, then subject to bounty laws......... If your wife gives it to you then expect to pay later..... Nope, no such thing as free lunch.... :rolleyes:

IMO these ultra high figures are nothing but marketing spin - there is no guarantee that the latency and throughput of your isp will be up to the job, especially when you share your node with a bunch of internet download hogs.

Doesn't the MkII have a leaded Georgian effect or is that optional? :D

Its also the colour of turds....

Slow leaks are commonly due to :- Pinprick corrosion holes in the main a/c pipework under the clips holding down the pipework to the body. Pinprick corrosion holes in the evaporator. Both are due to bad quality control/materials/poor design. BTW the whispering noise is just a symptom of low gas pressure (the gas is evaporating or "boiling" too early in the system) its not a leak....

You need to "screw IN" the rear brake pistons (they are the self adjustment mechanism on the handbrake) - air should not get in - but it is recomended to undo the bleed nipples to allow the (dirty) fluid out rather than push it back to the brake reservoir (via the ABS block) - Remember to renew brake fluid every 2 or 3 years - it absorbs water over time causing corrosion and increasing the possibilty of vapour locks. Buy a genuine/OEM filter - they have a nut welded on the bottom for a socket or spanner - easy. Do not overtighten the new filter, - smear oil on the O ring, spin the filter on until it just contacts the mating suface of the filter housing, then tighten between 1/4 to 1/2 turn maximum by hand. Run engine and check for leaks. When tightened correctly, you should be able to remove by hand at the next service. Why are you doing this? :ph34r: Not normally ever required.... Are you sure you pulled the right one? Bottom radiator hose and remove filler cap? What a wus.... :)

I hope you realise that when you change any major item in the a/c system, you will also need to change the dryer/accumulator, add the correct lubricant type and quantity to each item changed,and change all associated seals. Then have the system correctly refilled. i.e. vacuumed out (to remove air, moisture and check for leaks) and refilled with the correct weight of refrigerant. Its also common to add dye at the refill stage just in case of a slow leak ( :) ). For most people, this will involve using an a/c specialist.....