seatkid

If you search the forum, someone posted an explanation of how to pop the bonnet from underneath or the front (I cant remember which) - I know cos I posted some pics of the latch to clarify the instructions.

Oh the joy of owning an automatic.......

Why not take it back to where you bought it and complain. Shalaxy a/c faults are depressingly common and can be suicidly expensive to fix. I suspect the vendor knew of the problem and got it "fixed" (topped up) the week before he sold it.

Could be the infamous relay 30 (fuel pump relay) or might be immobiliser problem (try a different set of keys)

The posts I've read all say the same - the autobox oil gets cooked and should be changed - its not a lifetime thing as the manufacturer (Jatco) would lead you to believe. If the cambelt went then the previous owner is likely to have neglected regular services and possibly abused it as well. Personally I would say at 150k without FSH is basically not worth much (~

So would you recommend I also join the "officially recognised by Ford" Ford Galaxy Owners Club or the lesser spotter Ford Owners Club (Galaxy section)? Or am I unlikely to get into either with a Seat Alhambra? :(

Other suspects are: Engine Roll restrictor (rear bolt sheared) Dual Mass Flywheel (not sure if 110hp engine has one) Engine/Gearbox mounts.

I can second that observation. I recall the time I was teaching my young lad slow speed manouveuring in an empty factory car park in 1st gear. I said "brake and clutch", however he only braked and forgot the clutch, the car continued on relentless toward a steel bollard. I yanked the handbrake on - still it went on - it refused to let me move the gearstick to neutral. I dived over the steering wheel and switch off the ignition. We stopped about 6 inches from the bollard. My "award winning" :( ECO Corsa 1.3 multijet on the other hand stalls at every opportunity it can.

IMO I wouldnt be surprised if most new Euro 4/5 diesels especially those with DPF fitted have pathetic torque at low revs. This is because the Euro specs dont allow engines to overfuel at low revs (which inevitably leads to excessive emissions / smoke) as in days gone by. The only way round this would be to remap/chip (with the problem that it would no longer be euro compliant and leads to reliabilty problems) or go the automatic gearbox route and possibly

F106 (110A) feeds the central junction box (main fuse box), ignition switch, i.e the main electrical feed to the cars electrics. Check the crimps, use a voltmeter to compare volt drops either side of the fuse and the fuse itself in case the carrier is faulty.

IMO Engine Oil is a high margin item. e.g. I recently went to my local Vauxhall dealer parts dept. to get 5 litres of GM Super synthetic longlife oil (5W-30 plus up to 30,000 mile interval on certain engines!!) - got quoted "about

You just wasted about

Click here to find out what road tax is going to be for your car next year. Looks like those with petrol engines, 2 litre PD engines and all with auto gearboxes are going to be hammered. Fortunately mine is pre 2001 and so is not affected (so much) :P

Nah.....you don't even need to jack up the car....... :) Undo the 6 bolts - 2 on each side (either side of the wheel) and two at the rear. You need a socket set with an extension to reach the bolts. Lower the tray to the ground and you have a perfect secondary drip tray to catch the oil from spinning off the filter that doesnt go in the bowl. When putting the tray back, offer the front end up first, *above* the bumper mounted clips, then lift the back and put the bolts back.

It could be your EGR valve. You shouldnt accept a car like that, I would take it back and demand my money back.

It's an EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) fault. Basically the EGR valve is stuck (partly) in the recirculate position which leads to a lack of air and kangarooing. Either the EGR valve itself is sticking, or maybe one of the pipes controlling it have split or come loose. If it is stuck you could try some injector cleaner and an italian tune up to free the valve. (i.e. rev the bollocks off her in 2nd or 3rd gear).

Sounds as if you need WD40, a can of red paint and some patience..... :)

Things that come to mind Faulty temperature sensor (its a dual device IIRC) - try disconnecting it and see if it starts ok Other things I seem to remember cause starting problems....(try searching the forums for more info.....) Weak starter motor Crankshaft position sensor

The airbag light coming usually indicates an open circuit in one of the airbags. Once its on, it will stay on until reset by diagnostic computer or VAGCOM. If you decide to check the clock spring, make sure you read up on the procedure and disconnect the battery for several minutes before trying as you may accidently set the bag off!

The problem i think you refer to is faulty crimping on the alternator wiring usually causing the alternator/battery box to burn up/melt. Has been a problem for a number of members...ask MO4

Check the gear actuator cables move at the gearbox end and that one hasnt come off or the cable bracket is loose. (2 man job)

Check you fitted the belt correctly. Its possible to route it round pulleys the wrong way......

Sounds like the bottom pulley is loose, the key is sheared and the pulley(s) on the crankshaft move about upsetting the injection timing (white smoke) and throw the belt about. Try a search! :)

Just thought I'd pop in and say hello! A quick update on my vehicles. 98 ALHAMBRA 1.9tdi :D My 9 and a half yr old Alhambra is as brilliant as ever continues to return well over 50mpg average in mixed driving. It is as reliable as clockwork and runs as smoothly as ever. The minor problem of the whistling EGR I reported last year disappeared when I used some Millers Diesel Additive power sport 4 and did an Italian tuneup. It now has 86,000 on the clock,and I'm considering changing the (original) rear pads - the original front pads are still only half worn. I did have to change the batteries in my remote a couple of weeks ago though, less than 10 years life ....slightly disappointed. 07 CORSA 1.3cdti :) This car is bag of shit. Anyone who claims that Fiats multijet technology is world class is an idiot. The engine is a heap of (stuttering) cow dung. Compounded by putting it in a car that bounces around like a demented pogo stick, it can't / won't drive in a straight line, and has many useless features that clearly were designed by a 14 year old. I could go on at length but this car depresses me so much all I will add is the on board computer (what a joke) is a downright liar when it claims 60+mpg, but the Shell forecourt pumps claims its only doing 45 - 50mpg. Quite frankly its put me off buying any "modern technology" diesel ever again. How it ever got chosen as "car of the year" I'll never know.....yes I do....it's all down to ploughing journalists with free booze and exotic trips abroad..... Anyway, that's all folks, I'll be on my way before some wasack turns up and starts on at me about lying, driving slowly, CdA and generally spouting shite. :D

Ways to find what engine is fitted (as original built) :- 1. If any letters on the Tdi badge on the tailgate are red then its the 110bhp variant 2. Open the tailgate and open the drivers side rear compartment (where the jack is) - there should be a sticker with vehicle build detail including engine type/code 3. Take the VIN no (passenger side window) to a Ford dealer and ask them to look it up 4. Get the engine number - look for a sticker on the cambelt cover - sometimes it also in your V5 registration document. Look for the letters AHU or AFN as per previous poster.