tdi90

85% is a guideline NOT a rule! It is ADVISABLE that the caravan weighs no more than 85% of the cars kerb weight (Just driver and car fluids) Dont forget, the more stuff you put in the car, the heavier it will become to counter act the caravan :wacko: Also, if you passed your test after 1st Jan 1997, the max weight of the caravan must not be heavier than the kerb weight of the car, and the total weight of the car and caravan combined must not weigh anymore than 3500kg. To tow over these limits you must pass another test (B+E). I have towed my caravan with a 4ltr V8 L/rover discovery, a 2ltr Di vectra estate, and now the Gal. Have to say the gal is the most stable of the 3, no contest.

brake light & clutch switch (if you aint got an auto) upbehind the pedals?

3 meters of 3.5mm 1.5 - 2 meters of 5mm This is more than needed, but allows for some errors when cutting, or spares for next time :wacko: When you route the pipes at the rear of the engine, make sure you clip them into the holders that are attached to various points. And make sure that they dont touch anything that'll get too hot (they may melt, if the pipe is not the braided outer type) I have my spare pipe in the car along with a pair of cutters, so if it does melt, I can fix at the road side. Hope it solves ya problem mate.

Well, the test went well last night. It went straight upto 90mph (on the private road to work of course :wacko: ) with no hesitation or stuttering. There were also no new fault codes so fingers crossed. I am going to take the caravan for a test tow on Saturday so that will deffo show if the fault is fixed or not. My old pipes had no obvious signs of cracks or splits, but there were loads of places where the braiding had worn through and the rubber pipe was easier to bend than in other areas. Re the N75. I just ordered mine from a local ford dealer. Part number F1003803 sensor assy.

Pictures below for you. If you join this site www.vagcat.com you can also check descriptions. As for Vagcom, it must be a fully registered version to use the 'basic settings' mode. ANU_code.bmp Code_AUY.bmp

Looks nice and clean/tidy mate. Is it around the 1992 mark?

My N75 turned up today, and I fitted it in 5 mins. The 1st piccy shows the old pipework and the old N75 The 2nd you should be able to see the pipe that goes to the air box I'll give it a good thrashing, sorry test :16: on the way to work tonight. All I've left to change now is the vacum pipe to the turbo and hopefully all will be sorted.

I just asked for vacum pipe for the air control system for a car. The stuff I used has'nt got the braided outer like the OE pipes, but its a lot thicker than the OE stuff. For the 5mm pipe, I used proper petrol pipe. Before I changed the pipework, I mostly had to re start the car to get the turbo going again, but now easing off the throttle does the job. My N75 should be here today hopefully, so I'll let you know how it goes. I'd change the pipework first, then change the N75. On the attachment below, the black arrow is the N75, and the red arrow is the the only bit of pipe thats a bugger to change (have to get at the turbo from underneath and at the back of the engine) http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e237/gotsells/Vacumsystem.jpg

Our old vectra estate had s/levelling, and it did make a difference to the ride height of the back end whilst towing. Our gal tows fine without s/levelling, with no noticeable drop with the van on the back.

My 1999 TDi 90bhp has the same issue. Fine in 1,2,3, but in 4th/5th over 3k rpm the turbo kicks off. I scanned the car with Vagcom and it listed the following: 1 Fault Found: 00575 - Intake Manifold Pressure 17-00 - Control Difference So far I have changed all the vacum hoses, bar the one to the turbo (car needs to be up on ramps to get to it) and it has improved slightly. I have ordered part number F1003803 (

1) The best caravan to buy, would be one with an internal layout to suit your needs, The correct weight for your car to tow. And the best CONDITION you can find. Age isnt really that important with caravans, its how they are looked after. Look in caravan mags, go to local dealers etc to find the layout you fancy. 2) It does'nt matter if private or trade bought, condition is no1 on the checklist. Check for damp (stained wall boards, soft wall boards, musty smells, rusty internal metal work) Check upholstery & carpet condition Check door hinges, catches, window stays etc etc Check everything works (taps, water heater, battery charger, fridge, oven, grill, hob, heating, inside lights, road lights) Check work surfaces for dents/broken trim Check tyres are'nt cracked and or worn Check brake system has been maintained Check corner steadies work smoothly Check it isnt nicked. all vans after around 1990 ish, have a number etched onto the windows (CRIS number iirc) Check what extras you get with it. Water/waste carriers, hook up leads, step, battery, awning, water pump, pots pans, plates etc etc, are gonna cost upwards of a

Airfilter?

Surely if the ford dealer was fully aware of the weight you were gonna be pulling, you can get ya cash back from the car as 'unfit for purpose', or a trade up to the 2ltr TDCi? MK2 max towball weight is 85kg's

Have you checked the rear springs/shocks/bushes on the car? Seems weird, as I've only ever heard good reports of Gal/Alham/Sharans as tow cars. Our van is light weight @ 1050kg all up, but I've known people to tow vans weighing upto 1800kg with a galaxy and had no probs with snaking etc A mate of mine has an l or m reg tdi Disco and tows a Elddis superstorm twin axle weighing in at 1750kg and he cant get it to stop snaking. He's even paid

Are the friction pads in the hitch within the where limits? Are they clean? are there any chunks out of them? Before every trip away, I give the tow ball a scrub with a green scourer and a squirt of brake/ clutch cleaner. The Alko hitch gets a squirt with the cleaner as well. Every other trip, I rough up the pads on the hitch with a bit of sand paper then give them another squirt of cleaner.

Could be loads of different reasons To high or low nose weight (max 85kg on the gal) heavy gear loaded to far forward or back of the caravan axle Heavy gear loaded to high inside the caravan To much weight loaded one side of the caravan Any water left in the toilet or water heater? Tow ball height to low or high (van pitched forward or backwards) Tyre pressures to low or high on the caravan Tyre pressures to low or high on the car (dont forget to increase psi on the car rear tyres when towing) Twisted caravan chassis (hope not!) Knackered caravan axle ((hope not) Wheel bearing faulty Wheel nuts loose Are all the fixings for the cars tow bar secure? (you may laugh but my cousin had 2 of the bolts work loose & drop out on hers!) Is the van to heavy for the car ie car kerb weight against caravan weight (85% is recomended, but I've towed at 97% and not had a wobble) IIRC max tow weight on a Mk2 is 2000kg's. Do you use a stabilizer? if so Leaf blade or alko/winterof? pads get knackered easily on the alko/winterof types and the tension goes on the other type. If you do use an Alko type stabilzer, is the tow ball paint, rust and grease free?

Lwb Nissan terrano or ford maverick? Big jap 4x4?

I would'nt recommend a discovery. We had a 1999 4ltr V8 auto as a courtesy car for a month. Driver and front passenger have loads of room, but the back seat is a joke for leg room! The small rear doors combined with the rear wheel arches make it a right pain in the ar** to get in and out of the back, even more so if you have to put the kids in car seats. The 2 rear seats were front facing folding jobbies that would be fine for kids, but then theres no boot space. A mate of mine has an L reg TDi disco auto which he has converted over fully to veg oil. That has the 2 rear seats facing each other, which is good for space, but not as comfy as the newer discos. His returned awful fuel economy for a diesel (hence the veg oil) I reckon if you could find a half decent looking disco for

Did that cure your starting problems? I've had major c/starting issues with my 1999 TDi. Mine turned out to be a break in the main feed wire to the glow plugs. Ford dont supply that part of the loom anymore, and VW didnt want to know :wacko: Mechanic is having to cut the damaged section out and slice in a new bit.

Cheers mate, I'll let the garage know.

Problem still not sorted :) . Leave the car for more than 2 hours and it just cranks over and over chucking out thick white ish smoke that stinks of diesel. Starts eventully then sounds as though its not firing on all 4 then catches and holds. Garage I took it too yesterday, reckons its a fault with the pump or injectors, so its off to the garage that fitted the new fuel pump and injectors at thye end of last year. When cranking the engine over for more than a few secs theres a chime that sounds from behind the dash board. Anyone know what it is?

Are you running vista or xp? If on vista, right click on the vagcom icon on the desk top, click 'properties' then 'compatibility'. Tick the box that says 'run as windows xp' and then tick the box that says run as administrator. Click apply then ok. If that doesnt work un install the usb lead driver. Turn off internet connection Insert the disc with the driver on Plug the usb cable back in Vista should then search the disc for the driver, if not you'll have to search for the driver file manually.

I took mine to a local 'Mr Clutch', who took for a test drive, then had the car up on a ramp to check for obvious leaks. Nothing was found, so went ahead with the full clutch and slave change. Have had no problems with the clutch ever since. Mr Clutch was also

Cheers for the reply. Complete fuel line system has been replaced, as well as the fuel tank lifter pump. My original main fuel pump was replaced because the return valve was letting the fuel return to the tank, so the car had to bleed itself each time it was started. The starting problems are no where near as bad as they were then, so I'm assuming its not the pump again (although its under warranty so maybe worth a check)

I am having cold starting problems with my 99 TDi 90bhp Galaxy (now called Frank :angry2: ) If left over night, its a bugger to start. No excess smoke comes outta the back, and if you pre heat it 4 -5 times it does start. Runs A1 when started, and starts fine for the rest of the day. Its just had a recon engine fitted (2nd one in 6 months) Had a new fuel pump fitted 4 months ago New injector tips 3 months ago Glow plugs have been tested, & are fine No fault codes stored new battery fitted 2 months ago Fuel pump timing has been triple checked and is fine (had that problem when they fitted the new f/pump) I'm at a bit of a loss as to what it could be. Anyone have any ideas please?