gio

Legally, the only vehicles that need to have reinforced tyres are commercial vehicles,in the case of the galaxy even the index rating of say 96 is not a legal requirement on a galaxy.although I believe the galaxy came with tyres rated between 96 and 98, the Only legal requirement is you do not over load the tyres. An index rating of even say 91, means each tyre can carry 615kg which when multiplied by 4, equals a max weight of 2430kg, fully loaded. It would be up to the owner to not exceed this.Having said that, having tyres rated between 96 and 98 are a good idea as this brings up the tyre carrying weight to 710/750kg each, which means never needing to worry about being overloaded..

The valve should be closed anyway, the vacuum should suck the valve open at light throttle so if the vacuum was not working and after you cleaned the Egr valve it was in the closed position[normal] then the vacuum not working would not be an issue. Indeed if the egr valve is faulty, then clean it up leave it in the closed position and disconnect the vacuum pipe anyway, save your money and spend it else where. It will not effect your vehicles performance or passing of the MOT. Your vehicle, is it still smoking black smoke? it might be worth getting you entire exhaust system including the cat cleaned our. Air line and soft rubber mallet as if its been smoking black smoke the build up in your exhaust system could lead to some of the proplems you are encountering, indeed it could lead to other problems if not cleaned out...

sassygirl, having paid out 70 notes, it is really important that you get them to give you all the fault codes that came up, and given that they should have cleared the old fault codes, if they cannot recall the codes that came up,and i mean there proper numbers ie P1025 ect you should insist that they replug her in for free and tell you all the codes that are coming up. Although I have to say an out of sync MAF sensor will not throw a code up, having all faults codes available is a start. Now mine had the exact same symptoms, and then got even worse just loading the throttle had it gioing into limb mode ie no power. We have a proper diagnostic system at work, that showed on a graph the maf merely cutting out under load. Basically all electrical sensors were cleaned as were the connectors.. problem of 2 years has disappeared, so your could be something just as stupid and cheap....... good luck

Clearly you know that your car seems to be acting like it is in "limp home mode"? usually when nothing too obvious stands out, it turns out to be one of those ghastly sensors or a faulty dirty connector to it.

The galaxy 115bhp 6 speed, falls into the 171-180 co2 grouping. so from next year it will be

!You either know what the old man did, or you don't,and from what i am reading, you simple don't know much about tunning! talk about being a dick! "played with the ECU" you came on here and claimed huge bhp, gains by changing the air filter and a more freeflow exhaust, now your tune has changed alittle,which isn't surprising as you do not know much about it. As to the old man "may have played with the ECU! ". This isn't old timer tunning where you simply up the fuel on the pump and manually adjust the actuator on the turbo! To play with the ecu, you need speicalist equipement so you can talk to it and even more speicalist stuff to flash over the original maps! From what you have said so far,this is not the case,otherwise you would know about this costly equipement that is needed,and the still quite costly to buy maps. As to your last statement " cold start mode piggyback chips and more air",tottally wrong!, the idea of cold start is to give an engine more fuel! not air,as a diesel already burns with an excess of air anyway,That why these piggyback chips actually work in the first place, primative yes,but not all of them are just a cheap resistor.

Sorry alick, something is a miss here.You do realise you have condridicked yourself!, you cannot get all that extra power without changing the fueling and upper the psi on your turbo. In otherwords a remap would have needed to have been done to get from 90 to 130bhp! and on a nice hot day,without a bigger intercooler[does the 90 bhp have one?] you will simply have a real nice very hot engine because its air mixture will be too hot and of a limiting capacity. In otherwords just as bad for the car as a badly done tunning box...

Had a fiat that boiled over once, [stone through the rad] the temp sensor worked fine,but it didn't register the vehicle overheating till it was way too late,don't know why but was told because of where the leak was the sensor would only see a problem late. Now i assume you know that you have no leak,but check that the water is actually going around the whole system and that you pump and thermostat are fine. Have you topped her up lately? as an air blockage is also a possible problem,as is the fact that it could just be a electrical clitch.

Hi - nope, afraid not Just tried again with keys in; position 1; position 2 and with car running - still no life in anything other than enough power it seems to light an LED!!!! Any other ideas, guys? Right. have you tried it in the front ciggy lighter? and does the ciggy lighter work ie does it heat up the ciggy lighter?Now if it heats up the ciggy lighter the curcuit is fine. Now try the ciggy lighter in the rear power adapters.Does it work? If so the problem is not with the car but the dvd players 12v adapter, or system.

hello I can shed some light on this problem, the loss of power is caused by the boost pressure going over 2.2kpa, as soon as the pcm sees this over pressure situation it shuts down the power by reducing the fuel being delivered by the pump, so that no damage is done, on the early galaxy you can do a reset simply by shutting off the throttle and back on again, on the later model the ignition has to be switched off, it is caused by oil getting in to the pipes that control the boost via the n75 valve, the pipes are far too long and oil gets stuck in them which causes a resonance to build up, the boost pressure has to go from the turbo to the pcm , by the time it gets there and the pcm then respondes by activating the n75 valve the situation has gone critical and so you get a reduction in power, there are other factors that can cause this but this is the most common, the waste gate on the turbo has to be checked for sticking also. Now that could indeed shed light on the subject.... thanks f0ster

Surely thats what you meant....... <_<

And they complain that we drive too slow........ ;)

Too near. le11- le12 ;)

A certain poster,seems to think caravans hug the middle lane!.The original poster, is having a dig at that member. Can you guess which member it is? :)

:angry: :) :lol: Brilliant stuff........my compliments. I bet your a bundle of laughs around the resorts swimming pool! Bet the only bit of culture you come across when on holiday is how many san bucca's you can down before you start bring it back up! :) Why on earth you even bothered to go to the caravan and touring section is a little bewildering! Lets all stick to something we know something about, in your case when it comes to caravaning and touring,you make JC look like he's got a doctorate in it!

Whats the alternative?

Roadtax will be going up for everyone,as it does each year anyway. pre 2001 cars don't use the co2 rating system, so for now when you compare pertol engined galaxies the pre 2001 have a better deal. Diesels,thats slightly different as the post 2001,s have the edge on the pre 2001,for this year and i believe next year too? Then in 2010,not so good. But i believe that whatever government is in charge then, pre 2001 cars might find new tax rules will pump up thier ratings too. I do not see the piont in these patitions,they don't do anything and the wheels are in motion for All cars to be rated on CO2. So i cannot see what people will be patitioning for?

I too looked into those, all in one handheld devises.The info i got was a little vague,things like will work on petrol 2001 and diesels from 2004,but most sellers [proper shops] seemed to think they would work. Did not bother in the end only because we ended up getting a 10 grand system at work for lorries,which also had a package for cars too. Never the less would be interested to hear if these type of handhelds would work on a tdi,if they did,and did a little more than just fault codes,would look like pretty good value.....

Ok, sounds like its a turbo problem,and really you should not be driving it a further 60 miles. If things start to break up in the turbo they could damage the engine too,and as it is burning oil,you never know if it could burn enough oil to leave your engine short of the stuff. I would open the bonnet and look around the turbo for signs of damage or leaking oil, if nothing visable would risk starting it up for a short time and looking around to see if a intercooler pipe is damaged or/and confirming the noise is coming from the turbo... good luck

The question may well come across as seeming simple. But there is nothing simple about trying to give a definative answer. You are asking people who may like to help you out,a rather advanced question on biodiesel and any adverse effects it could have on your injector system, long term. If you are simply just adding a 50/50 mix to your tank already,are you sure that no adversity is happening to the injector system or any seals already? There are indeed alot of biodiesel type forums that surely could aid you better on such a technical question. I for one, could not say its ok to even run a 50/50 mix safely.because its your cars reliabilty which is in question.would hate to be a part of its failure,because i gave a ill advised response..... So nothing simple about that question afterall..... regards Gio

sorry cannot help with the switch thing, but the car is getting hot on motorways? Well that shouldn't be happening regardless of the fans working or not.

We were told our compreessor was shot by the guys at tanvic. they wanted 350 notes to replace the compressor,they claimed the high pressure side was low and the low pressure side was high? whatever that all means. Anyway we left and said we would think about it,and i asked if there was any gas in the system and if the Air con would work.They said they tried to re gas it so there should be some gas and the air con may work on and off. Well for the next 4 months our aircon worked fine,and come the middle of may we wil try to regas it again. 50 notes a year for the aircon to work in high season seems a better deal than 350 notes for a new compressor that may or may not fix the problem.