daddyfixit

wires in osf door will be shorting out, very common. and once you have repaired the ones you find faulty the others will play up in sympathy !!

the trade name "crossland" is old/ respected; however it is part of a collection of defunct companies that have been bought by ecp....its just badge engineering---same product stamped up as someody elses. buy yourself the mann filter (green/yellow box) and be happy.

mines been smoking again in this cold weather spell; gets a heater plug for

handbrake mechanism works on caliper piston, so the main seal has failed. nearly every caliper you get nowadays is a recon unit---they usually take yours in exchange. recon will have new piston & seals and will have been tested before its boxed, main brand I know is brake engineering--in black/yellow boxes from most motor factors. don't need bleeding kit, just some clear plastic tubing to push on bleed nipple. 1. when its all fitted push pipe on nipple and open it a couple of turns, put other end of tube into a clear bottle. 2. top up brake master cylinder to the maximum mark, go indoors and put kettle on to make a cup of tea. 3. about 5 minutes later check the bottle---should be filling up slowly with dirty brake fluid ? 4. if not , gently push brake pedal ONLY HALF WAY DOWN a few times---this will start things moving again. 5. top up brake fluid, carry on drinking cup of tea. 6. as long as you can see NO air bubbles in the clear tube and its been filling up the bottle--close the bleed nipple and remove tube. 7. GENTLY push brake pedal a few ties HALFWAY ONLY-----this is to prevent damage to the master cylinder. 8. now sit in the car and try brake pedal properly..............repeat the above steps if you think pedal is crap.

air flow sensor been removed to do the pump ?? check the multiplug hasn't fallen out ??

don't repair brake calipers, if a rubber seal has gone --then its gone and you need a new caliper. after all, you don't hear of many people repairing split condoms with Halfords bicycle puncture repair kits do you ???

tailgate wires have probably snapped..........brings on fog warning lamp ? and makes dash light up as you press brake pedal ???

try bridging the one on the wiper linkage, if it fires up the aux heater then you proved the sensor was faulty. or extend the 2 wires into the car, fit an illuminated switch so you can control it from inside the car ???

as far as I know, its a strut off job; bad enough trying to get at top nuts-take out the surfboard for access ?? loads of wd40-type stuff in advance as well sprayed all over the place !! if you get strut on the floor you can see what your doing.

gear selector cables are known to wear and pop-off the linkages at the gearbox end. plastic balljoints wear out and become loose, so cable falls off underneath battery tray

4.00 hours for full clutch kit/release bearing, or 4.20 hours if you change flywheel as well. both those brands of clutch are good ones, I wouldn't pay the extra to see them inside a ford box though !!

rear fog---green/white reverse-----black/grey poss going to black/blue

2000 1.9 tdi; switch each light on separately to check for live wires at rear of car !! rh side-----------green/red rh brakelight-----------------------black/red rh indicator-----------black/green lh sidelight---------------------grey/white lh brake----------black/white lh indicator---------------------black/white reverse---black/grey number plate---grey/green

mann are excellent filters; got a full set on my galaxy and on my 16 year old 306 d-turbo. mahle are ok but you don't get them anymore near me. I used to always use fram until I found they were being made In peoples spare bedrooms in odd sounding countries !! filtron (made in Poland)---I think I have fitted a pollen filter of theirs once ? all the others are brands I wont touch; ecp owns the brand names for most of them, produces them all in the same place then brands them up and charges different prices...... take a look at the mann filters website, they show a comparison between their filters and competitors products, if you are in the trade they will arrange to visit you with a suitcase of cut-open samples to prove what they are saying.

theres still a broken wire.

can you pick up a fused constant live feed at the rear cig.lighter sockets ? relay could be mounted in the compartment behind the sockets? make your earth point will be in there as well ?

car needs scanning for codes. oil will always make its way to the lowest point in the pipework, the oil gets in there because of the breather system. why not remove the pipes, clean them out with jizer/gunk and wipe them dry--refit and see if it was just a build up of oil making its way down the pipes due to gravity ? but if its leaking from the intercooler body, different story-----remove and repair with epoxy or 2-pack putty ??? or get a new one fitted. an oil leak wont cause the limp mode though.

just stripped down my passenger side motor, pain in the bum as its only been in there a few months ! it was stuck pointing downwards but a liberal splashing of contact cleaner, cleaning up the slider and generally lavishing it with attentions got it working again !

an old post; today I fitted a pair of sharan sill kits I bought from mirez, ive had them a few weeks but got up early today as part of a planned car day ! no instructions so it was all guess work, took about 4 hours on my back with one wheel jacked up at a time, cant believe how much damage was done by the r-soles at the insurance -approved bodyshop !!! the front drivers side has been pushed up about half an inch.......................so the fixing frame needed work to get it to fit so the outer cover would click on. I also cut the front mudflaps to fit back on again so the car looks really well now !!! next week I am going to fit a pair of aftermarket fog lights to the bumper blanks, as I have had a boxed pair in the garage since before I even got the car. !!

is it losing water? or only when you take the lid off ? dip the oil to see if the oil level has risen (water leaking into sump) system pressurising is normal due to the coolant being heated, usually about 1 bar (14psi) aux pump keeps water circulating when engine is switched off to reduce afterboil, also would reduce any excess pressure by allowing water to travel through aux heater to remove any air locks caused by inoperative run-on pump. 1. get a coolant "sniffer" test done---this will check for combustion gases in the water system indicating a leak. 2. get a set of brushes for the run on pump, takes about 2 hours if you follow the guide

you could squash a yorkie or a miniature poodle behind the 2 rearmost seats...

get 2 of the 500ml bottles of brake fluid, better to have too much than not enough .

adjust it so that the post moves towards the back bumper, so its nearer the tailgate. also are there any paint marks from when it came out the factory, you know so that you can see where the securing bolts were before you started adjusting the striker ??

tailgate striker on boot floor, covered by the plastic trim that's easily pulled off without any tools.

broken/shorted wires in the osf gaiter cause all sorts of problems. caused my windows to open and unlock about 30 seconds after I had just locked it up ! thick brown wire and a couple of others needed repairing