littledaz

forgot to say, should really be tested at idle and light throttle. If chugging occurs under load only, this may not help but, worth a look before replacing anything.

Only if they are steel. If they are ceramic glow plugs they could explode! Be very careful!!!!!!!!! I'm not 100% sure if Galaxy had ceramic ones fitted but, I wouldn't take the risk. Prefer seatkid's method of testing with ohmeter or bulb. If below 1ohm, OK. Above 1ohm or open circuit, defective and replace.

If filter doesn't help, can you get your VagCom man to readout MVB's 13, 18 & 23. These are the readings for you're injectors. Can you then post you're findings so, I can have a look. Might be able to point you in the right direction. Obviously, this must be done when the chugging/misfiring occurs to get a good indication if it is an injector issue. ld

You're all mad!!!!!!!! lol :lol: :wub: NikpV - the glow plugs are permanently on with the glow plug light illuminated. This is the glow phase. The system then goes into an after-glow phase where they are switched on and off when needed to help smooth running and emission control. This only lasts for about 5 mins though and is cutoff over 2500rpm.

I agree with NikpV. Sounds as if one or more of your glow plugs is faulty. The engine requires heat to ignite the diesel. If a glow plug fails, the diesel will not be ignited initially, thus making the engine chug and smoke at startup due to the unburnt fuel. I take it after it's started, it runs OK, with no smoke and starts OK when hot. On the PD TDI engine, the glow plugs generally switch on below 10 degrees C so, will be more noticeable with the current cold temperatures. When do I get my choc hobnob? :wub: ld

I don't see any reason why it would alter after a battery reset. The adaption channel should stay set. When we are advised to change adaption channels, they are to rectify customer satisfaction issues. If the customer then had a battery change, their original issue would return. I believe it is permanent. Congrats on the new motor. ld

Dave-G going back to your original question....... I couldn't resist having a mess with my '04 130TDI Galaxy today. I've got a little clutch chatter/gearbox rattle on tickover which irritates me. If I raise the revs slightly the noise went. I remember adapting an A3 2.0TDI to rectify this and it improved it. Tried the same on my Galaxy today and it worked. I know you had your alternator replaced which sorted your issue but, I thought "what if?" and had a play. Below are 2 pics of before and after adjustment with VagCom. I can't guarantee this works on them all but, it does answer your question. Don't know of any long term effects as only done today but, can't see what they would be. Look at the rpm values with the corresponding adaption values to see it can be done (on mine anyway). Before adjustment.. After adjustment.. N.B. If anybody carries this out you do so at your own risk. Please write down any changed values because, you could render you ecu useless if the values are changed outside manufacturers parameters. I cannot guarantee that it works on every TDI ecu. I'm gonna have a play with my dash soon to see if I can get the fuel range to work. Little more difficult though, I think. ld

Hi Rockdoctor, Unfortunately, I don't think the clock has a replaceable bulb. I had my clock removed on '04 plate Galaxy at the weekend and there was no bulb in the back. I think it is an led. The 'button' is a sunlight penetration sensor. It is used in conjuction with your air conditioning system. I've read somewhere on the forum that these trims on ebay are dearer than the ones from Ford. Would enquire at your local dealer and get the one that matches your exactly.

Yes, the PD engine is turbo-diesel. I must admit that using the correct oil on a PD engine is absolutely vital. The 115 bhp PDs could only run on 50501 spec oil as there was an issue with the injectors being damaged due to inreased wear (mentioned earlier in this thread). These injectors are

My word, you are in the wars! ^_^ If you can hear the relay clicking that eliminates a few components. It means your switch is OK and the multi-function control unit is activating the relay. That leaves the wiring going to the relay (which does incorporate the fuse gooner52 mentioned) and the wiring from the relay to windscreen. Also even if the relay is clicking, this could still have burnt out contacts for the screen supply. The fuse is located on the multi-function ecu which is where the relay is, behind the driver's lower dash trim, I think. How good are you with a voltmeter? This could help you diagnose where your fault lies. I don't think it is the screen because you say neither side works and there are two elements. They are both supplied with the same 12v feed from the same relay (unless both sides of the screen are disconnected, of course).

You're making me blush! Sounds like a faulty remote. You really need to try another remote before condemning the ecu though but, that also is a possibility.

Won't do the job I'm afraid. The splines on the proper tool are much finer and more closely spaced. My picture may be a little out of perspective.

BTW, not that proof is needed, here are the required components.

Nik, yes, testing the vehicle could be done one of two ways. Either sit in the vehicle, with the window down, lock youself in :) and operate the central locking. Reach out of the window and try to open the door thus testing the operation of the locks. Also, you could, with the door open, latch the door catch to closed with a screwdriver and lock and unlock the central locking whilst moving the door backwards and forwards (this would test the wiring aswell). I'm not sure about the wiring as I assume the fault is the CL as a whole. If there was a fault in the door pillar wiring, I would expect the issue to be local to one door. Regarding yours, I believe the wiring for global open/close is separate to the switches. You have open & close signal wires from the switches and also open & close signal wires from the cl ecu to the window motor. I will try to get access to a wiring diagram to confirm this. One thing though, have you tried resetting the basic settings on the affected window, a possibility.

Hi jackthehat.co.uk, Not surprisingly, the part number for the pulley I gave you has changed 3 times. This is an indication that it has been modified. Need I say more! The part number for the pulley is now 022 903 119C and the cost of this from a VW/Audi dealership would be

More like West Midlands I'm afraid, very close to M6 if that helps. ld :rolleyes:

NikpV, that is the point I am trying to make. If by operating the internal door switch, the cl ecu locks and unlocks 100% of the time, that should eliminate a wiring issue as the signal is being transmitted successfully from switch to ecu to locks. If the locking still plays up on the remote, I think the remote would be the cause.

You could also try the lock/unlock button in the drivers door switch panel if your tailgate lock is seized! I'm sure this sends the signal to the ecu which in turn sends it back to the door locks, eliminating the wiring again. At least the failings of VW/Audi keep me in a job and the wife very happy :lol: I really like my Galaxy also but, deliberately chose a 130 TDI as it was VWAudi and I know my way around it. What have I let myself in for??? :rolleyes:

I take it the tailgate will not latch closed. If this is the case, consider the latch may be seized or the spring in the mechanism could be broken. Try, with your tailgate open, to move the latch with a screwdriver or similar to the closed position. If it doesn't stay latched then your latch may be faulty. Also the tailgate release motor mechanism could be seized in an open position, with this you would probably still hear the motor operate but it will be holding the latch in an open state.

Sounds like the remote to me. I take it, like my Galaxy, you have no passenger door lock. If not, you can try to eliminate a wiring issue by operating the tailgate lock and see if this operates the door lock 100% of the time. If I am correct, the CL ecu will use the same wiring to operate the locks whether by remote or by the boot lock. If it does work 100% I would consider buying a new remote fob. BTW, you seem to be having quite a few issues with your Galaxy. I hope we can help you fix them all.

Just to confirm. I managed to change the language on my 2004 Galaxy today. I changed it from english to german then back to english. This was with VagCom. Select Instrument ECU Address code 17 then Adaption 10 then Channel 4 changed value from 2 (english) to 1 (german) then saved. Dash was in german. Changed value back to 2 dash was in english again. Always be careful changing codings and adaption channels, you could render your ecu useless. Write down everything you change just in case. All I can say is it worked for me. I still don't think you can do it any other way. Shame you are in Portugal - too far for me to travel to help you, sorry ^_^

Excellent news, glad I could help. ^_^

morticiaskeeper, what you are referring to is the injection pump stop valve. I agree that this would cause the engine to stop but, I don't think you would get any noise and the engine would still crank from the starter. It would be like just turning off the ignition key. It will be interesting when we get more info from thecodfly to try to and help him.

If I remember correctly, it is the speed related volume control. As your car speed increases, the volume increases to combat the extra road noise. This function will probably not work on the unit you are going to fit. Just leave it disconnected, I did.

If the coding of the ecu is how the language is changed, then yes or Seat Dealer diagnostic machine VAS 5051. I know that on the majority of VW group vehicles that this is the case and I don't see why the Alhambra would be any different.