littledaz

Look what found it's way into my inbox yesterday!!!!! I liked the....... I take it that should be per year!!!!!!!! <_<

I take it your catalytic convertor is OK? With your engine cold, try tapping the casing to see if the "brick" inside is loose. The only thing that would substantiate the sensor side of things, is the fact that you said it seems to be using more fuel. Your HC reading of 140 indicates little unburnt fuel. The cat won't affect the fuel consumption but, will make your emissions high at the exhaust pipe if faulty. Does it run OK otherwise and how many miles has it covered?

Overfilling the fluid can cause it to aerate and froth up. This can cause the autobox to overheat and clutches to slip. Fluid level is critical which is why a specific temperature window is needed. The VW autobox in the Galaxy is usually classed as "filled for life" and generally don't require any attention unless you are having problems or just prefer to change your fluid regularly. Ford may recommend change intervals but, VW/Audi do not. If you are not experiencing any issues, I suspect your fluid level will be OK.

I agree to some extent because when I was searching for a 130, I tried my main dealer who had 2 Galaxies. One had the red badge and the other was chrome. I asked the salesman what bhp they were and he said "I don't know, I'll have to check". I thought he was just thick. All I can say is, every 115 I viewed had the chrome badge and the 130s had red apart from the Ford dealer who didn't know. <_< The only true way to check is by the engine number which takes 2 mins.

No problem, Paul. Just PM me when required. PM'd Maz with specific info also. Darren

That's it! I've managed to upset a Mod in my first 3 weeks of being on the forum. I'll have to watch myself now :19: Seriously though (as I quickly backtrack) I do like the Zafira but, I asked for a large seven seater on holiday as we had 5 adults and a four year old. They turned up with a Zafira and my four year old would not sit in the 3rd row of seats. That meant my mother-in-law and occasionally my father-in-law, who is 6ft 2in, had to sit in the 3rd row. It was a bit of a squash as you can imagine. I do hope you'll forgive me gregers, please, pretty please? <_<

When it clicks, do you get a succession of clicks or just one click? If still no go with booster pack, sounds like starter motor sticking. If you can see the starter motor, try tapping it with a length of wood and a hammer whilst someone else turns the key. Bit crude I know but, sometimes works. Failing that you would have to remove it and bench test. Try booster pack first though to eliminate the battery.

Hi Matt, welcome to the forum (find it strange saying that as I've only been here 2 weeks myself :D ). Agree with the others, check out the caravanning section. I looked there when I was interested in a caravan, lots of info. As for my opinion on the Galaxy.........fantastic. Had mine since May last year and still love driving it. Done some trailer towing, no caravans. Didn't feel the trailer at all and had to stop to see if it was still there once. Recommend the diesel variants as they have tremendous torque for towing, good fuel economy, respectable power and yeah....I own one :) Did hire a Zafira on holiday last year and find the Galaxy far superior (no insult intended) :) Darren

ninjakev, I'm a little puzzled. (not difficult :) ) This is still possibly glow plug system issue. If you do that procedure every time does it cure the problem? Have you checked that you are receiving 12volts approx at the glow plug connectors to see if the relay is functioning. You could have a resistance issue that requires you to build the heat up gradually rather than them getting full power straight away. Might be a glow plug relay, i.e. poor contacts, or wiring issue. As for the injector leaking - feasible. Can't say I've experienced it on a PD injector but, first time for everything. Would try new filter with some diesel conditioner to see if any improvement. The PD diesel system uses a tandem pump driven from the camshaft to supply your injectors with the necessary pressure. When the engine is switched off, the pressure bleeds off back to the tank, so there is very little, if any, pressure in the system. The tandem pump is very efficient and can supply the necessary pressure almost instantly when cranked. Have you checked for any fault codes. You can get them and have no warning light on? I take you haven't noticed any coolant loss, just thinking about the misfire and smoke at cold start? Is it trying to burn off internally leaking coolant? I'm sure you would have said but, just thought I would eliminate it. One other thing, did you check the resistance of the new glow plugs and compare them with your old ones? I have had new defective glow plugs before, especially non genuine ones. Please report back before you spend any more of your hard earned cash. The more info you supply us, the easier it will be to diagnose.

130 has red tdi badge on bootlid - 115 has chrome with red border IIRC 130 has a silver engine cover - 115 has black Also your engine code should be ASZ. Can find the code on top of your timing belt cover, requires engine cover removal.

OK Dave-G. Hope the hand gets better soon. Gives me a little time to put the test instructions together. I'll have to look at wiring diagrams to make sure you check the right pins for resistance. I remember reading that your misfire happens at idle is that in P, D or N or does it not matter?

yzfr1boy, I would normally agree with you as I have experienced that also but, Dave-G's Galaxy is an Automatic which rules that theory out. Dave-G, does your warranty cover "electrical failures" i.e. wiring issues? Some don't. I will get round to posting the test. It is a little long-winded. BTW, I didn't strip my Galaxy down to take the photos, I'm not that keen! :lol: Hope you don't feel too guilty now. The first pic is from my Galaxy and the other two showing the loom are from a head we had removed at work.

The problem with checking these autoboxes is that the procedure is very specific. You must be able to check the auto fluid temperature in the box. The window is 35 - 45 degrees C. Auto fluid is directly affected by temperature, as the oil heats up it expands, so the level can change depending on temperature. If the pre-requisites are met, the amount of oil should be a small trickle. If it is not dripping out, top up and if gushing out, drain off. Bear in mind that you will probably have a small amount of fluid sitting in the test pipe when you first remove the check plug. Priming the gears allows the fluid to flow around the autobox, through the valve system and through the torque convertor, ensuring you get the correct level of fluid.

Can't beat that gooner I'm afraid. mumof4... I have achieved a discount of

The loom is just plugged in........well sort of. Its main connnector protrudes from the cylinder head and there are then four 2-pin connectors for the injectors beneath the cam cover. The cam cover requires removal and providing there is no damage to the rubber gasket, it can be reused. The connectors for the injectors just pull off (quite tight) and then disconnect the main connector via the twist-lock connection. The loom is then unbolted and withdrawn from the head. There is a resistance test that you can carry out to check your wiring loom and confirm the diagnosis. I can post this when & if your willing to do this.

Hi Paul, thanks for the welcome. I have PM'd you with some specific info. Hope you got it. I would love for you to have your Galaxy serviced at my dealership but, I don't think you would like the

Could be MAF sensor but, have all the induction pipes from air filter to turbo to inlet manifold been checked. If you have a small split in any of the induction pipes you will experience, 1. black smoke (I know you say this is fixed but may improve further) 2. lack of performance 3. induction noise, which sounds like scraping under load 4. juddering due to the unmetered air which is not passing through the maf sensor. Does all that sound familiar? ;) It is worth a check because the split may not be noticeable at idle due to there being no boost from the turbo which is why it is probably difficult to diagnose. Try revving the engine hard and listening for escaping boost air with the bonnet open. Doesn't always throw up fault codes either. I take it the engine is a 110bhp tdi? They have small rubber connecting pipes that join the hard plastic pipes to the turbo and inlet manifold. The oil mist in the induction system usually makes them go soft over the years and they usually split where the jubilee clips are but, still worth checking all the pipes. Hope this helps ;)

90bhp PD engine has different, probably smaller, turbo and a smaller intercooler than 115. Engine ecu likely to be mapped to suit also. Think of the 90bhp as a strangled 115bhp. ;)

Wolfie, even I was doubtful about the possibilities suggested in that post and I work on these engines every day! not utilised on PD engines. this wiring loom is used on all the Audi/VW/Seat/Ford 1.9PD engines and has the same part number. I've worked on Audi PD engines since 1999 and never had a loom fail. It is not a known issue with Audi but, is with VW, bizarre or what? ;) Perhaps the VW engineers abuse them before fitment ;) Live & learn heh? ;)

I take it you have no desire to tackle the replacement yourself Dave-G? Can you live with the issue until your warranty becomes "live" again? The loom is approx

Nothing significant then? I take it the 'misfire' was apparent when viewing MVBs? When you say "a tad higher" on cyl 4 in MVB 13, what was the maximum value you witnessed. Even if the value doesn't exceed the parameters, you could still have an issue. I had an A3 2.0TDI earlier this week that would hardly run but, still ran within the parameters. It's quite a large window of adjustment. A small deviation may be a slight misfire compared to an engine running on 3 cylinders when the value is at its extreme. All zeros in MVB 18 shows that, as far as the ecu is concerned, the solenoid valves on the injectors are OK. If one goes faulty, you usually see a value of 128 on the offending cylinder and a fault code. As I said in my previous post, I am not too concerned about MVB 23 as I am not sure it is utilised by our ecus for injector duration but, I do intend to find out what it is 'cos I am curious as to why it used in some and not others. I have done some digging and have found that VW are aware of an issue with the injector wiring loom in the cylinder head that can create resistance issues with the injectors. Also other issues with the injector sealing rings were mentioned. This requires a resistance check of the injectors at the cylinder head electrical socket and pressure checks of the fuel system. If this was your issue, I would have expected it to show in the MVBs or as a fault. Might be the beginning of the issue, depends on how severe your 'misfire' is. I didn't realise your VagCom man charged you, shame you are not coming this way, I could've plugged mine in for you. Just out of interest and if you don't mind me asking, how many miles has your Galaxy covered (might help in diagnosis)? A new fuel filter filled with Forte Diesel Conditioner or similar may help if you have an injector not spraying cleanly. I know this is a lot of info in one hit but, without roadtesting your Galaxy and getting a feel for the issue, it is an odd one. Hope this helps :)

Sorry, I think some ecu's don't use MVB 23 in the way I use it at work on Audis. MVB 23 is not documented in VagCom for my ecu part number but, is for others. This leads me to think it is not used for injector reference on all ecus. Concentrate on MVBs 13 & 18 as these don't alter from ecu to ecu. Still look at MVB 23 on yours though, it may show something relevant. If under your MVB 23 readings you have a "m/s" reference, this is your injector solenoid valve duration. I'm interested to see what your readings are.

If the fault is a misfire on a cylinder, you should see the engine ecu trying to combat it by altering the injection values in MVB 13. Minus figures reducing fuel and plus figures adding fuel to smooth it out. Extreme figures away from zero indicate a misfiring cylinder, most probably injector. MVB 18 should be on zero, anything else indicates a possible fault with injector solenoid valve. MVB 23 usually injector solenoid duration, may differ on various ecus, need to concentrate on MVB 13 & 18. Looks like you've got the latest VW/Audi brake light switch there, Dave-G. They used to be blue or black, had loads of problems with them, I am now fitting purple (modified) ones. Generally, you should get engine management light on with brake light switch faults. Doubt you would get a misfire but, don't quote me on that.

Not sure what you mean. No MVBs available or no signifcant data in MVB? Check the example from my Galaxy below showing good readings and compare with yours.

I've got an 04 Galaxy and had to buy a Ford to Iso adapter lead. About