littledaz

Your choice really, Bigjeeze. You know the old saying "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"! :lol: As far as I am aware, the gearboxes have no oil change intervals but, if it was mine, at 106k, I'd do it. The oil has got to be a bit gritty now so fresh oil may have a positive result. Can't do any harm as long as the level is correct afterwards.

Good, all the info I have given you is relevant. Without baffling you with what clutch or brake does what in the box, I have had a quick look and seen that no specific clutch or brake in the box is engaged without more gears being affected. Put simply, with the gears you've mentioned, I would expect you to have issues with 1st and 5th also. Have you tried driving up and down the box in tip to try to pinpoint every gearchange for faults? I have VWTool but, don't like it, a bit basic. I prefer Vagcom and with it being fully registered I can carry out all functions anyway.

The dash in your Galaxy is a carry over from the VW Sharan. VW use a servicing regime called Long-Life or Extended servicing. This enables the engine, using special oil, to go longer between services (generally anywhere between 9,000 to 19,000 miles). As far as I am aware, Ford never subscribed to this and maintained Fixed servicing intervals. The display is obviously a guide but, I would imagine it has calculated that you have done approx 3,000 miles in 8 months and it will take you approx 4 months to reach the next 2,000 miles. As steve67car said, it is a time thing as well as distance. Your servicing is every 10000 miles or 12 months, which ever comes first. Makes sense to me, hope it does to you too now. :lol:

I've just had a thought :lol: Is your autobox 4 speed or 5 speed? I've assumed it is 5 speed as it is in a thread for 5 speed box. It will make a difference as to what procedures to follow. If you can get the engine and gearbox codes, that would help. Examples: engine - AYL (on sticker on intake manifold) autobox - FBQ (stamped in to top of box casing) I've also read some of your posts in Oct 2006 that your issue has got worse and it only affected certain gears. Which gears does it specifically affect now?

Hmmm.....could be! I'd be inclined to try somone else's Vagcom before commiting to a new ECU, 'cos they ain't cheap. Can you communicate with other ECU's MVBs? I would also try something you mentioned earlier, which was to disconnect the ECU. ECUs are like PCs, if they get their knickers in a twist, it sometimes helps if all power is removed from them for a few minutes so they can have a fresh reboot. This can rectify all manner of issues. If you can't disconnect the ECU try disconnecting the battery, just make sure you've got your radio code to hand if needed.

Aw, shucks! You guys are giving me a complex. :( Great news though. Out of interest davethecabbie, did you do it yourself or did Fords do it? It is embarrassing for the dealer when the owners know more than them. :lol:

Glad to hear we're making progress. The basic setting you carried out was for Kickdown. There is also Channel 060 (throttle valve position) in engine ecu and Channel 000 in autobox ecu. These basic settings do require the engine to be OFF but ignition ON. I would recommend cleaning the throttle body before carrying out the basic setting channel 060 though, as if it is heavily coked, it may throw an error when adapted. I take it that your Vagcom is registered as you've carried out basic settings? Can you communicate with anything in Gearbox Electronics (02) with Vagcom. If my info is correct, the MVB is 002 and not 005 which is switch positions i.e. P,N,D, tip. You do require engine running and autobox in P to check the fluid level but, you should still be able to read MVBs with just the ignition on.

With that part number, you should have a freewheeling pulley fitted. The fan is immediately behind the housing of the alternator, just before the windings. I have only experienced this issue on PD engines, so not sure if it affects yours. The principles are the same though, so very possible

sort of. For front washers the pump will run normally and for rear washers the pump will be given a reversed polarity voltage to make it pump the other way. The valve is there to stop fluid being drawn back through the opposing pipe. Yes, the pump shown with no pipe connected will be headlamp washers due to its larger pipe connection.

Not sure if the sensor is fitted as standard. If you do intend to find out, the sensor is fitted in the reservoir and can possibly seen if you look through your front bumper grille or if you remove your N/S/F foglamp.

Hi Walz, sounds like one of your turbo boost pressure hoses maybe loose or split. Locate the oil source and this may lead you to a split pipe. The turbo system produces an oil mist in the boost hoses to inlet manifold, this may be your oil leak.

Forgot to mention, autobox ecu should be located beside your battery on inner wing.

This is relating to your throttle valve body and maybe air mass meter(MAF). The throttle body requires basic setting from time to time but, maybe coked up. Recommend throttle body clean and basic settings (your version of Vagcom can't do this!). Also check MAF as this can seriously affect or even kill an autobox if defective. However, as the fault has not reappeared, it may have been an old uncleared fault. ECU & PCM are effectively the same thing. There are separate ECUs for autobox & engine but they do communicate with each for various functions i.e. throttle positon, engine rpm, load signal from MAF, etc.

Sorry Nik, gemguy PM'd me for advice. I told him to post his complaint to the forum so others could help. He has a misfire at 2500rpm on his TDI. I suggested tapping injector no3 (which has the needle lift sender) at 2000rpm to see if the misfire occurs. He is answering my suggestion here. ;) gemguy, please describe your complaint in detail so others can help

Yes Nik, that sounds very possible in view of the fact that there are no external leaks. Only other thing is internal leak via head gasket maybe but, this is not so common. I'd be checking pump first. ;)

The impellor can be checked without removal of water pump and cambelt. The thermostat is mounted directly behind the water pump on the side of the engine block. This requires two 10mm bolts to be removed and obviously coolant drain but, when the thermostat is removed, you can place your finger or screwdriver in the hole and feel the impellor to see if it is loose. Be careful using a screwdriver though, the impellor is made from plastic and if forced, it can break, if not broken already!

Something like this Nik, generally find that the water pump, if faulty, shows no indications of failure until the engine is under load i.e. high revs. The impellor turns OK until it is required to produce more flow and then slips. Very common as I think this forum is aware.

Since you've bought a spanking new multimeter, it might be worth checking your glow plug resistance aswell. Black lead on the body of the glowplug and red on the centre electrical terminal. Can be checked without removing them from the head. Value should be below 1ohm if OK. This may be the cause of your smoke. The glowplug system is utilised for the first 5 mins of running to aid smooth running and emissions under 2500rpm. I take it your issue also occurs when hot? Worth a try Dave, getting a lot of failed ones lately, especially on motors around the age of yours.

Hi John, if you search Vagcom on the forum, you will see that it does work with the Galaxy. The reason for this is that the Galaxy is 99% VW Sharan. Vagcom is a tool for VW group ECUs and the only ECUs it will not communicate with, on the Galaxy, is the Ford petrol engines. All the other ECUs are VW based so the programme should work. I have a fully registered version of Vagcom and have had no problems communicating with my Galaxy.

I am surprised you could not read your autobox temp. The shareware version will read the fluid temp in MVB 002 of the autobox ecu. See link here Vagcom versions. As for your issue. Yes, the autobox ecu would have to have a basic setting carried out when replacement box was fitted. This can be carried out at anytime and sometimes rectifies shift quality issues. Basic settings needs fully registered version of Vagcom. The fluid level must be addressed first. Fluid too low or high can cause your issue. Can you tell me exactly when your "thumping" occurs i.e. which gears? I don't know if you're aware but, your autobox is made up of numerous clutches & brakes. Depending on which gears you are having the issue with, would determine whether you are having problems with a particular clutch/brake. Of course, the "thumping" may not be autobox related, as you said.

Will be interested to see what readings you've got. In the mean-time though, can you answer some questions for me? Does the 'misfire' feel like it is dropping a cylinder for a couple of revolutions or is it just a 'blip'? You said the rpm drops by 100rpm (quite a lot IMO), does it lack power at this point? Does it happen at a particular engine temperature? Have you tried switching off & on consumers, i.e. aircon, HRW, HFW to see if this affects it? Do you experience any smoke? Is there anything else, other than what you've already mentioned, that can change the characteristics of the 'misfire'? BTW, there is no anti-stall device, as such. My 6-speed manual stalls very easily if the revs aren't high enough! The ecu controls the rpm, if it drops below or rises above its threshold it will try to bring it back to idle. I am trying to cover all possibilities (i.e. fuel presure, egr), in view of the fact it is not a prominent misfire causing a fault code and it is only noticeable at idle & light throttle. Sorry for all the questions but this is bugging me now? I think a VagCom plug-in by me is 'looming'.......'scuse the pun :unsure:

This is how to test the PD injector wiring loom in the cylinder head when experiencing misfires. You may also experience the following fault codes: 18074 - 18077 valve for pump injector cylinder 1 - 4 electric fault in circuit 16685 - 16688 cylinder 1 - 4 misfiring recognised The test requires the cam cover to be removed for overall assessment although you can preliminary check to see if the resistance values are out by going straight to the electrical plug. 1. Unscrew wiring connector on right side of cyl head (release lock pin first) 2. Using multimeter on ohms (200ohms setting - may vary on different multimeters) and test the appropriate pins 3. Connect black probe to pin 7 (injector common earth) and then use red probe to test remaining pins in turn. There are 4 remaining pins; these are individually wired to each injector. 4. When checking the resistance, the value should be within 0.1ohms to 1.5ohms and all injectors must be about the same value. I tested this one today and found each one at 0.5ohms. 5. This is where the cam cover removal is needed. 6. Do not disconnect injector 2 pin connectors as the test checks the solenoid valves aswell. 7. Whilst checking the resistance, move the wiring loom and 2 pin connectors to see if the value changes. 8. If the values change with the movement - replace the loom. (Instructions below) 9. If the values don't change but are out of spec, disconnect the connectors at the injectors and test the injector solenoid valves. If the values are equal on each injector, replace the loom. Replacing the loom Undo the two 10mm bolts from main connector Unplug the 2 pin injector connectors and clip into loom casing. Slide out loom and squeeze steel clips to enable it to slide out freely.

Me again Dave-G! The system is not under pressure when the engine is switched off, so, draining immediately after switch off or leaving overnight would make no difference. The tandem pump, on the back of the head, sucks the fuel through the filter, builds the pressure in its housing to approx 10 bar and feeds the injectors with this, then the injection pressure of upto 2050 bar is created by the PD injectors. After switch off the pressure in the tandem pump bleeds off back to the tank via the return lines. The only benefit of draining the fuel filter is to drain off water as this collects at the bottom of the filter.

Sorry mcyoungy, didn't mean to leave you out :16:

Yours is a PD variant. 90 & 110 are standard TDi engines 115, 130 & 150 are PD TDi engines.