littledaz

For what it's worth, The above quote is from VW workshop manual for Sharan. Surely, if the manufacturer sees it as OK to push the piston back allowing fluid to re-enter the reservoir, then it must not cause any damage internally. Consider the action of pressing and releasing the brake pedal, the fluid is moving back and forth in the system, admittedly not to the extent of pushing the piston fully home. Ask any garage, I bet they don't open the nipples to push the piston back!

Check around your oil filter for any wiring that you may have trapped or damaged. I know the engine speed sensor is in that viscinity and I think the wire runs close to the oil filter. Just a thought :unsure:

"positive pressure deviation", in plain english, is turbocharger boost pressure exceeded. The turbo had indeed dropped out or more to the point, the engine ecu had switched it off to protect the turbo and engine. The engine ecu requests a certain amount of boost under various conditions. If the boost pressure exceeds the request for too long, the ecu will shut the turbo down. The ecu will tolerate a certain amount of overboost until it has reached its limit of control. Turning the ignition off then back on resets the ECU, but the fault code will remain. Common causes are sticky N75 solenoid control valve, sticky turbo actuator control (variable vanes in turbo carbon up and stick) and possibly vacuum pipes. My money is on the turbo or N75. The values of the turbo can be monitored in MVB through VagCom.

;)

Yes Ade, clockwise is the direction to release the pressure. You can try using a long spanner on the bolt for the tensioner wheel but sometimes the tensioner spring can be very strong, which can lead to the bolt turning with no movement of the arm. They tensioner arm has a fair amount of load on it. It is fairly obvious when you look at it or at least it will be when you discover how it works. :lol:

Ade, couldn't reply to PM, it says your PM system has been disabled, so I have answered your question here. Hope you see it. The tensioner is held against the belt using a strong spring which is fitted to the other end of the tensioner arm. This applies pressure in an anti-clockwise direction so, you have to move the tensioner arm in a clockwise directon to release it. I don't think you can do this using the bolt that holds the tensioner wheel in place as it tends to turn the bolt which could snap it or strip the thread. I assume you don't have access to the tool listed. The only other way, is to use a lever to move the tensioner back, but beware, the tensioner wheel is plastic so treat it with care. You could always ask 'lim' as he had to strip his down, see here If you are removing the belt to check the alternator pulley, remember, it can be done without removing the belt.

Something that shouldn't be overlooked is your brake pads being free to move in their carrier. It is something I come across quite often. It is usually the rear pads that, over a period of time, stick in the carrier due to rust build up on the carrier itself. One possible identifier of binding, depending on how long you've suffered from it, is the colour of the brake disc. The offending disc is usually bluer than the rest and the usually rusty edge to it has an orange tinge to it. Even though you had your rear pads replaced 10 months ago, if the caliper carrier was not sufficiently cleaned of rust buildup, this could be your problem. Worth checking before condemning a caliper.

no apology needed smoggy, you did worry me slightly though, when you stated it was definitely the intercooler and you had antifreeze leaking out of it :( You will always have an amount of oil mist in the induction system on a turbocharged engine. It is not uncommon to have an amount of 'sweating' at the joints of pipes due to the pressures generated by the turbo. If the leak is sufficient enough to generate drips over a short period, this should be rectified as the system is not as air-tight as it should be. The clip on the affected hose should be replaced, as you have done. The leak from the end cover of your intercooler would indicate a deteriorating seal or weaken clips which as you can see are part of the core of your cooler. You can try tensioning these back up a bit to improve the situation or take it to a radiator specialist who will do it for you, otherwise a new intercooler will be required (a little drastic IMO). I would monitor it for now, as you have said.

Sounds like clutch is dragging. It is hydraulic and is not adjustable :( Couple of possibilities, clutch worn and requires replacement or hydraulic fluid leak/poor pressure i.e. worn slave/master cylinder. How does your pedal feel, does it have enough resistance indicating good fluid pressure? If so, I think you're looking at a new clutch.

Yes Nik, it will run rough and pop back on a petrol when faulty/disconnected when revving it up. Adrian, Before condemning the MAF, check the wiring to it for breaks and check the pins in the connector to make sure they haven't spread open, causing bad connection (open circuit).

It says for MK1 and 2, fits to original wiper arm. Type ford galaxy rear wiper blade new stylee in ebay as Martin said and all will be revealed :lol:

Yep DJX, that coil pack is knackered.

IIRC they're 5mm hex.

Smoggy, if it is the intercooler pipe, you will not lose any antifreeze as it is an air pipe for the turbocharger. Turbocharged cars create an oil mist in the induction system and this is likely to be your leak. If the clip won't tighten, replace it and also inspect your pipes for splits, although if they are split you would probably hear it and have reduced power.

Hi Tonyk, I have checked today at work as the parts system is more up to date. You DO have a freewheeling alternator pulley part no. 028 903 119 AA and yes it is

Dave, I told you about the "holders" in post #44. :rolleyes: I admire your persistence in getting to the bottom of this but, I am thinking more and more that, if the loom is at fault, you would have fault codes and engine management light on. As for your oil level, I don't want to teach you how to suck eggs but, did you check the engine oil after it had sat for a while. The oil should be checked a couple of minutes after switch off due to an amount of oil flowing back to the sump from the oil filter housing, which can lead to an overfull reading. However, an inch overfull sounds a lot. Interested to see if this all makes a difference though.

ECUs only have this info when they require 'coding'. Your ECU does not require any 'coding' although it does require 'adapting' and 'basic setting'. When coding the ECU, a software code is generated and the corresponding workshop code is inputted from the diagnostic tester to the ECU. Coding is only needed when an ECU has the possibility of being used with different variants of engine, gearbox, etc. Yours is specific to that engine and box so does not need coding. When adapting/basic settings, you are teaching in things like throttle angle, throttle pedal values, etc to ECUs that require it. Have you tried Basic Setting Channel 000 in Autobox ECU? Your autobox ECU learns and adapts to driving styles. Basic setting resets all learnt values, etc. I believe you have only tried Channel 063 in engine and this may only be half the cure. Channel 000 in Autobox (ignition on, all electrical consumers off, engine not running) - Select 02 - Gearbox Electronics - Select 04 - Basic setting. - Select channel 000. - Confirm entry - Depress accelerator pedal past kickdown to stop and hold in this position for 3 seconds - The ECU is now in Basic Setting The throttle body is held on by 4 bolts and an electrical connector. There maybe some vacuum hoses connected and definitely the main induction pipe. I would remove the unit completely to prevent excess cleaning solution going in to your engine. I suggest cleaning the throttle flap (this will have to be manually opened and closed) and port with Carb cleaner and a toothbrush until all carbon deposits are removed. When refitted, the engine will need to be up to normal operating temp and basic settings channel 060 will have to be performed. Basic Setting of Throttle Body (ignition on, all electrical consumers off, engine not running) - Select Engine Electronics 01 - Select 04 Basic Settings - Select channel 060 - Confirm entry - Display should read 'ADP runs' (or similar) - Completed when display reads 'ADP OK' Hope this isn't too mind-numbing :rolleyes: , it does appear that your issue is more Electronics based. Daz

A couple of examples of your 'thingymajig' in use. If you browse your engine bay, you will see these are fitted everywhere, different sizes and on most pipes. The only chance you will have of finding the missing one, is to look at all your hoses, look for one that could be prone to rubbing, similar size to your 'thingymajig' and there maybe a dark patch on the hose where it once was.

Walked right in to that one, didn't I?? :lol: I'll see what I can do

Cepheus, Mattjr and Bleeno aren't far from me but may take different routes. We need to get our heads together to find a mutually agreeable meeting point. What do you think?

11am, think so? If you PM me closer to the date, I can give you details. If you decide not to take me up on the offer or get a better one, I won't be offended :lol:

Maz, just goin' off topic slightly now you're in a good mood. Which way are you going to the Karting meet? I don't live far from the track (1/2 hour) and would expect you to come up M4, M5 then maybe M6. I could meet you off the M6 about J14 and guide you to Lichfield if you wish. Offers there if interested.

And there was me just putting my tools in my Galaxy for March 4th. ;) Glad thats fixed now Maz. Well done Hijacker, why didn't I think of that? :lol:

I agree, sometimes ecus get there "knickers in a twist" and need a reboot, just like a PC. Disconnecting the battery "reboots" your ecus. Leave it disconnected for a couple of minutes. Try it Maz, you've nothing to lose, just make sure you have your radio code to hand, if its a Ford unit.

As I said, it is fitted to prevent your coolant pipes rubbing on things. Vital? You probably won't notice any difference, possible coolant leak in the long run though if the pipes rub through. Just checked the wiring diagram. Level sensor fuse is shared by many engine actuators, so don't think its that. You really need to check the voltages at the sensor. As long as you have no oil pressure light on and the engine sounds OK, you should be alright but it should be checked. If you are happy to drive, I can check it at the karting event, if you think it will be OK. Could be a fault with you dash clocks but needs confirming by checking the voltages to the level sensor.