Willie Krashitt

The short journerys are your problem, not the dealer (for once). DPF's really don't like not getting hot. The engine calibration will clean the DPF (known as a regeneration cycle) but the exhaust needs to get hot to do it. It doesn't need a dual carriageway, just for the engine to be up to temperature and allowed to run for 5-10 miles once hot. Do a continuous run of 10-15 miles every week, and you shouldn't have a problem. George. PS: Mods - This should be in the Mk 3 section.

Simple answer is Door Assembly - Stowage box. If you go near a Ford Dealer, ask them to look up on e-cat: >> VY Galaxy 2000- (VY) >> A Body And Related Parts >> 09 Side Panels/Side Trim/Side Glass >> 022 Side Trim and look at item 3. The hinge pins are listed seperately, but not the hinges themselves (part of the lid?). Door/Lids are

There shouldn't be any noise from the PCV system if it is working correctly. Am surprised car is unaffected if it is leaking, as this would normally send the lambda sensor to its extreme of compensation ability, giving a poor idle. If you check 'down the back', make sure that all hoses are connected on the manifold - canister purge, variable manifold actuator, fuel rail regulator and brake servo. Could be a leak on any of them. George.

I believe that the pipe you describe is for the crankcase ventilation system. The non manifold end should connect via a 'rubber' sleeve to the crankcase ventilation valve (PCV). This should in turn be held into the cylinder block/ oil seperator housing by a large grommet. It would be under vacuum 99% of the time, and the connecting rubbers are known to split. Hope this is of use, George.

See attached pic - this is for the diesel one, but I suspect the petrol would be similar? Nuts at back (insulators thread into crossmember) are M6 flange nuts, also 4 off M8x25 flange headed bolts , 2 each side. George. Galaxy_Undershield.pdf

Unfortunately not. According to VAG-Cat, AHU and 1Z have injectors with suffix G or J, while AFN have suffix S or T. Higher power engine needs greater fuel flow = bigger injector. George.

Hi, The not so good news is that when you get the new intermediate shafts, the ones that use the alloy housing have been superceded by a later design and the housing is now surplus to requirements. This means that you will also need a new engine block to intermediate shaft bracket. Expect a bill around

To add to what has already been said. When you remove the wires from the auxiliary fusebox, pay very close attention to the big cable that feeds into the main wiring loom (it is about 8mm diameter and is on the connection closest to the battery). The crimped on connector is often the culprit as the crimping isn't tight enough and the increased resistance causes the joint to get very hot, oxidising the strands of wire inside and melting the fusebox casing. If you are lucky and the connector is still silver in colour and the wires are copper coloured, get it re crimped at the earliest opportunity or solder it onto the cable. Otherwise, it means cutting back the bad bit of cable until you find undamaged cores and splicing on a new piece with a new connector. It is a common fault on the Galaxy - I have had to repair both of the Galaxies I have owned. (Car 1 at 6 years, 100k miles, car 2 at 3.5 years/58k miles.) Do a search on auxiliary fusebox for more info. You will need some really big crimping pliers (go see an auto electrician) and/or a heavy duty soldering iron to do the job. George.

To All, To quote from Piney "1469755 is no longer available, it is subject to a multiple replacement which includes a pulley, a fixing kit and a new alternator. Im sure they are talking poo so will try Seat using your part number." Yes your dealer was talking poo. I have checked with Daventry and this part is still stocked and supplied as a normal replacement part. Should your dealer use a search on E-Cat, it does come up with 'number not found'. If you haven't got a nearby VW/Seat dealer, tell your dealer to look at the following 'tree': VY Galaxy>M Engine>07 Starter and Alternator>020 Alternator>item 2 Pulley Assy - Alternator. The originally specified part has been superceded by the one I gave earlier. The full Ford part number is 6M21-10344-BA, FINIS 1469755 and costs

Against the part number it is called an insulator assembly , but is called a bush as well in the title description. George.

Hi Paul, Have a look at the attached pic - Am I right in assuming that it is part 21 you want? If so, then it will cost

Do as has been suggested and I hope that you find out what is causing you grief. If it turns out to be the head gasket/cracked head, I am left wondering if this car has been chipped/remapped sometime in it's life, as these are normally incredibly robust engines unless they are taken beyond what they are designed to do. If it has been "tuned", then put it back to standard or you will only end up having to do it it all again. George.

They are available on Mk 2 Sharan and Alhambras, not too sure which trim level or model year got them. As far as I know, they were never an option on the Mk2 Galaxy. There have been several threads in the past about fitting these, and I believe it is quite straightforward. However, considering how much they cost (and more money to get the housings sprayed to match the car), I am quite happy to manually fold mine in on the rare occasions where it is necessary to do so. George.

I (and I'm sure 99.99% of other users of this site) am not psychic. You don't mention what engine you have or what year (ie mk1 or mk2 etc) This makes answering this type of question somewhat hit and miss. Add your vehicle to your signature! However, looking on e-Cat, Ford list only 1 pulley for the 120A alternator, as fitted to Mk2 models with TDi and V6 engines, and the FINIS code is F1469755 at

I was facing this same problem when I purchased my first Galaxy. Have you tried contacting the previous owner? Might be worth the cost of a stamp and SAE? This is what I tried and to my surprise my SAE came back with 2 keys in it. If this doesn't work, then you might try the following. (I did this originally in case there was no reply from the previous owner) The factory fit towbars were made for VW/Ford by Westfalia Automotive GmbH. I emailed them and got a very nice reply saying how to go about getting a set of replacement keys. I have a feeling that the key number was stamped on the lock cover? Have a look here: http://www.westfalia-automotive.de/index.php?id=8&L=1 and see the FAQ's. Hope that this helps, George.

You don't say where you got it from, but the Thule 591 Pro-Ride is listed as an official accessory from Ford, as is the cheaper Thule Freeride 530. I would suggest it is worth talking to whoever supplied your kit or dealer about this as there might be a different set of mounting parts available? George.

You mention a squeaky dash. Ask your dealer (or if you have a TIS disc) for a copy of TSB (technical service bulletin) No.1/2004 ? It goes into detail about various dashboard squeaks and rattles and how to fix them , and doesn't mention cardboard once. George.

Hi, If you have a Mk2, then I have found one of these absolutely perfect http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...st&p=140110 However, if you have a Mk3 with the wireless headphones, then have a look at this thread. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...st&p=131300. Hope that this helps. George.

Whilst nothing is impossible for someone who is committed to prove it can be done, I would say it is next to impossible to do with any reliability, especially without access to some seriously good materials and machining. You could probably have a main dealer change the belt for the life of your car and still have change from the cost of changing it to a chain drive! Chain drives are NOT a cure all for cam drives - there seems to be just as many problems with chain tensioners and/or guide blades failing or causing a wrecked engine as there are for the timing belt engines (Just within the Galaxy range of engines, early 2.0L and V6 models do suffer failures, typically around 80-100,000miles.) Belts are very good at what they do, provided that they are changed when recommended. George.

Glovebox lid - breakers yards or ebay. Dealers want both arms and both legs for them. George.

Only a possibility, but on most ancient tech diesels, there is a cold start advance built into the fuel pump, and some also have a unit that allows extra fuel to go through when it is cold. If the thermostatic switch that allows this/these to work is faulty/badly adjusted, then you might have got extra fuel and injection advance when you don't need it, allowing the engine to 'race away'? George.

PM the chap selling a set in the classified section?

Try this picture for Mk1 - Splash shield #16 is different depending on engine type, and for the diesels there are 2 designs for before and after May 15th 1999. Lists same hardware for 1995 - 2000 though. #21 = M6 Fanged Nut #22 = M8x30 Flanged Bolt #23 = Insulator Bush #24 = Expanding Rivet #25 = Grommet I suspect that it is #24 and #25 you are referring to. If so, then these are available under part number F1014037 ( galaxy1_undershield.pdf

See attached. Nuts at back (insulators thread into crossmember) are M6, also 4 off M8x25 bolts, 2 each side. George. Galaxy_Undershield.pdf

Hi, Hardly anything needs to come off - Undertray and offside front wheel and thats about it. You also need a (12mm?) star bit socket to undo the CV bolts. Early Mk 2's had a large cast housing to hold the driveshaft (and upper securing bolts for this are a git to get to!) while later ones have a pressed steel flange at the intermediate bearing. Unbolt inner CV joint and lift shaft out of the way (don't let it bend too much though - there is a warning of max bend of 20