Willie Krashitt

Hi, Do a search as it has been covered many times before. Concensus was to use either air or electric impact wrench (like the ones that the tyre shops use to get your wheels off). You may have to remove the bonnet to get decent access? Good Luck, George.

Hi, To answer your question about the wires, you are correct. Front left and rear right have the sensors. George.

Any good 5W30 will do. George.

Hi, I have no idea as th whether front fogs were fitted to LX models, but a clue would be if the holes were round or trapezium shaped. If round, then fog lamps would have been fitted. Another clue maybe whether the rear fog lamp comes on with the first 'click' out of the switch or the second (if there is a second 'click' that is). If the holes are round, then new lamps are

Hi, As 'Insider' has said, the Mk3 Galaxies are common rail, and there is a very real risk of fuel pump failure if you use biodiesel in greater quantities than 10%. This is not only Ford - ALL manufacturers have found the same problems and have come to the same conclusions. The failure mode is well known and warranty claims have been rejected because of using the wrong fuel. In addition, the failed fuel pump can also cause injector failure due to debris getting into the injectors. VW initially said the Mk2 with the PD engine could run 100% bio, but rapidly backed down when the warranty costs went up - later cars had a max 10% label added to the fuel filler label. George.

I guess it depends upon where you live. Try adding a few details to your signature? However, when I lived in Essex, Leonard Brooks in Harold Wood, near Romford were excellent for paint. George.

It doesn't have one as standard in the UK. Is a factory fit option for Scandinavia and some other countries though. If you really want one, they can be installed as an aftermarket kit, but they aren't cheap. George.

Hi again, Please see the attached. Also please note my earlier remark about torque: You need to tighten the glowplugs into the head to 10Nm (about 7 lbft), while my comment about just 'nipping up' the wiring connector is to just 2Nm. Do not overtighten these nuts as you will easily break the new glowplug. Good luck, George.

Slightly confusing this - You say you want to change the glowplugs, but you show a picture of the fuel injectors? To remove these plugs, push the connector in as if you were installing it, then press down on the small tab on the top to release the "catch", then simply pull off. The glowplugs are further down, and the wire is held on by a small nut, which you only nip up (10Nm). To get to the glow plugs, you need to remove the EGR valve and cooler assembly. If you are working on the fuel injectors, be careful. These systems hate dirt and can easily be damaged by it. Injectors aren't cheap either - over

Almost certainly as Chris suggests. Will add though, make sure that you get the same colour part - if your original sensor is 'grey' and you fit a 'blue' sensor (as the parts catalogue suggested for my first Galaxy) then you don't cure it. Also, buy a new spring clip and rubber seal at the same time so that if/when you drop the original and it disappears, you still have one to put back in. It is reasonably easy to do from underneath. Not too much water comes out, and you can actually see what you are doing. Use a mirror to check the colour before you go to the shop. Somebody did a 'how to' with pictures on here. Try doing a search. George.

OK, The following part numbers are FORD part numbers. You don't say the build date of your Mk2, but there are different bearings for early cars. Pre 31-5-2001 has bearing 1131861 (YM21-7R205-AA) at

If you can wait until Monday, I will be able to tell you. However, I did mine thinking it was the fault with a front end noise, and it is a real sod to get off the shaft.(I ended up mullering it with the angle grinder to get it off the shaft.) Is it definately gone? Having done mine, it made absolutely no difference to the noise I was getting at the front. There will be lateral movement as it is in a 'rubber' housing. Most problems in this area seem to be either the splines on the intermediate shaft, the CV joints or the wheel bearings (This is where my problem was - no play in bearing whatsoever, but having prised the seal out, lots of rusty water came out!) If you need the intermediate shaft because the splines are on their way out, it comes with the bearing already fitted. Hope this helps. George.

Hi, You don't mention what trim level you are getting, but the ones without the rear air con get a good sized storage area under the boot floor. High trim cars don't get it as it is full of the air con stuff. George.

Hi, Without knowing the history or driving style, it could be several things aren't right. Here are some things for you to consider before you go spending tons of money. Excessive black smoke is due to insufficient air going in, fuel going in at the wrong time and/or poor combustion (fuel not burning properly). If no fault codes appear, then my first suspect would be the EGR valve sticking open. Do a search on cleaning/blanking off and investigate that. Check for cracks/splits in the air system, ie. intercooler and pipework, as they don't necessarily fire off an error flag. Is it really running on all 4 cylinders? An unfiring cylinder will pull more oil up past the rings, leading to higher oil comsumption, and also put a lot of unburnt fuel into the exhaust where it burns very poorly. Get a compression check / leak down test done to confirm basic engine health. Has it had a timing belt change? If so, has it really been put back correctly? If out, it will cause many problems. A few more details like mileage, driving pattern (eg: all town use/short journeys etc), does it do this in all gears on every drive or only in the higher gears? just hot, just cold or all temperatures? Some detail like this would help provide a better answer for you. Finally, has it been "chipped/remapped" for 'more power'? Despite what others may say, the Galaxy isn't a good vehicle to 'chip' as it is too heavy and spends a lot of time at high loads, which can cause big problems for pistons, rings, valves, head, head gasket, injectors, turbo's etc, due to the increased thermal and pressure loading on these components. Hope this is of help for you. George.

From a press release today. ---------------------------------------- The UK

These 'handwheels' cost

No they won't. Apart from the stud spacing, Fiesta has only 4 studs per wheel, Galaxy has 5! George.

Do a search and you will find lots of recommendations. Avoid these ones though...My link

Quote from Mirez: The 2.0 petrol is a mondeo engine, the 2.3 petrol is a scorpio engine. Hi Mirez - Re:Mondeo engine in Galaxy. The truth is no Mondeo engine ever went into the Galaxy. The 1994 -2000 2.0 Petrol engine (8V DOHC) was a transverse/FWD application of the engine used in the Sierra, Granada/Scorpio and Transit van (All these were 'in line/RWD). A really heavy, underperforming lump of an engine, and was generally known as the 'Ford DOHC'. ALL Mondeo ('93-2000) petrol 4 cylinder engines were from the 1.6/1.8/2.0L 'Zeta/ Zetec E' engine family - all 16V and were (to me) much better than the horrible DOHC 8V unit. The 2.3 as you say was a development of the Scorpio/Tranit motor, (an enlarged version of the 2.0 DOHC with a 16V head and balance shafts) again rotated and modified for FWD use. The only part on the cars (and then with modified casings) that was similar to Mondeo was the 5-speed transmission (VTX75) which was a development of the Mondeo/Escort etc higher power application MTX75 transmission assembly. Hope this clears things up a bit. George.

Hi Paul, Hopefully this will help. Interior lights are fed throughout by red/black wires, but pre 05/2004 the lights in the doors were red/white, changing to red/black thereafter. Colours for central locking motors for front doors are: Drivers side red/white, black/red, green/blue, yellow/black (yellow/blue pre 2004) and yellow. Brown for earth. Passenger side are green/yellow (blk/grn pre 2004), green/white (brn/wh pre 2004), Yellow/black (blk/yel pre 2004), and yellow (white pre 2004). Earth is brown/yellow. Hope that this helps, George.

Hi John, Can't help you with the VW prices, but here are the details from Ford. The lower mounting,(torque control arm) has the part number YM21-6A026-FB, F118740 and a Ford dealer will liberate you of

The 130/150PS Mk2's got a bigger intercooler on them. Whether it will fit straight on a Mk1 is another matter, but anything is possible if you try.

Re Xenon lights. Don't know about Mk3, but other Ford cars with Xenon lights had a lever at the back to switch from left to right dip. Your dealer should be able to advise you. Am not at work now for a couple of weeks, so can't check there. What does it say in your user guide? George.

According to the parts lists, there is no difference between manual and auto radiators for Mk2 diesels - provided you order the 115PS one. The 130/150PS (which were manual transmission only) got a bigger radiator. George.

Mine (2006 Ghia, most options) has the multifunction steering wheel, with the radio controls on the left of the airbag, below the horn buttons, and the cruise control buttons to the right of the airbag. George.