Willie Krashitt

Matt1e I am not going to get into some drawn out arguments on here. You do it your way, I'll do it mine. However, you asked me to put up some facts, so here is something to consider. I am only going to quote you some generic numbers , as it would break my work contractual rules to quote specific numbers, but here goes: PCM- There are different maps within the PCM to allow the engine to operate at -30

Matt1e, I speak from facts - my job is that of an engine calibrator, using equipment that measures all the engine presures and temperatures, cylinder pressure for each cycle in each cylinder, emissions, water flow, fuel flow, turbo speed as well as the obvious power and torque readouts. The advice I give is 100% based on fact. Ok, there is a very small allowance for max/min limit component effects, but you would never know (nor would any chipping company) whether your parts were max, min, in the middle or somewhere else. As to the fuel to power equation, the diesel engine converts fuel into torque almost linearly, ie the more fuel you put in the more torque you get until excessive smoke, cylinder pressure or temerature call a halt. I agree with you that you can get a little bit more power at any given amount of fuel going in if you optimise the injection timing, egr rate, fuel pressure, boost pressure for that extra power, but you will compromise something else - excessive NOx emissions, higher smoke, combustion noise as well as the engine damaging issues I stated in my earlier posting. As I have said many times before, if it really were that easy to up the power, it would be done in the factory. The differences between 115 and 130PS PD engines in the Galaxy amount to: Head gasket, Injectors, turbocharger, Intercooler, Complete air cleaner assembly, Exhaust system and Water Pump (excess heat has to be got rid of somehow). That is just the big hitting items, and doesn't include a miriad of other bits. These are the FACTS. George

Go to 'Frequently Asked Questions', and open FAQ no.27. All will be revealed. George.

Look for engine code on a sticker on the engine or on the sticker in the boot storage compartment. 2001 will be either ANU (90ps) or AUY (115ps). If you can't see the code or stickers, another way is to type your registration number into the 'find your vehicle' on eg, Euro Car Parts website. Don't know if it is 100% ok, but is correct for both the Galaxy i had and the one I have now. George

Check that the panels under the windscreen wipers havent come loose. These will rattle over bumps or with the wind and the noise is exactly as you describe. Otherwise, there is a TSB available that covers lots of areas concerning squeaks and rattles on the interior and what to do to fix them. George.

I have a Waeco coolbox and this, as will most coolboxes, will flatten a battery over a weekend, especially if it is hot. Get yourself a battery minder that goes between the power socket and the coolbox (most of the camping shops sell them, as do lots of car accessory type shops) and this will cut the power to the coolbox when the voltage drops below about 11.5V, and will only switch on again when a voltage over 12.5V is seen. This will leave you enough power to restart the engine when you return to the car. George.

You don't say how old your car is, so do a search on broken wires in front doors - you will see it is a very common problem once these cars get to about 7 or 8 years old. It is possible that the wires are broken in either the left or right hand door "boots". (on the other hand, it might just be the mirror motors or switch gone u/s, but I'd look at the wires first.) George.

Are you referring to the silicon rubber pipes that come from the stainless steel tube that runs from the EGR Valve to the inlet manifold coming off (either side of the "venturi",or "narrow bit of the stainless pipe")? If they are, then it would suggest that there is a lot of pressure in the EGR system. This could be due to a blocked cat/exhaust or the EGR valve having failed/stuck open. The EGR valve should be fully closed by 2750-3000rpm. If it is still open, then the pressure in the exhaust will go through the EGR valve and blow the hoses off. You mentioned that the car had a new cat recently - has a piece of the old cat gone down the exhaust and stuck in the front muffler? George.

Running with a misfire (or hiccups as you call it) especially at high load could well have melted the catalyst, partially blocking the exhaust. This would manifest itself in a very similar manner as you describe - the higher the speed/load, the worse the restriction effect is. Could be worth getting an exhaust gas check and see if cat is still working, but that wouldn't be 100% accurate check, as the cat brick could be melted in one part, yet working in other areas so still does its job. George.

Just a thought - you haven't got a slightly binding brake on the left hand side? Front or rear, If you have, it will make it pull to the left. Easy to check if you have the wheels off swapping tyres over. George.

Hi, Give wiperblades.co.uk a look- they are much more reasonably priced.

For Mk 1 (pre 2000) models, the lights are all the same, VW or Ford. With the Mk2 (2000 on), VW and Ford decided to differentiate the two models further and the galaxy gained "New Edge Styling" meaning Focus style triangular lights on the front with a correspondingly different bonnet and grille, and a similarly different rear in-door light units. So you can fit VW/SEAT headlights to a Galaxy, but you would have to fit the corresponding radiator grille and bonnet, which makes it a rather expensive thing to do unless you get the bonnet really cheaply. Hope this clears it up for you. George.

ANU (90PS) aren't fitted with a VNT turbo - it is (well, should have) the older FGT with wastegate type so there are no vanes to stick. Sounds as if you have either a pressure/vacuum leak with one of the pipes in the boost control circuit or an electrical fault with the wiring to the boost control solenoid. George.

As I have said before, if it were that easy then the manufacturers will do it. Upping power by overfueling will do one/some/all of the following: Increase in cylinder pressure considerably - leads to blown head gasket or cracked heads if sustained Increase exhaust temperature - overheat exhaust valves and turbine wheel in turbo. Increase smoke - obvious to anyone following you and your EGR system will clog up faster/bores will polish quicker Increase the amount of fuel going past the rings (as PCM thinks engine is cold, therefore advances injection) = contaminated oil. Increase fuel consumption - more power = more fuel used. These "hot chip" companies work may well work "reliably" in lighter vehicles where the engine cannot be maintained on high load for very long, but the Galaxy is a 2-ton + passengers heavyweight. It takes up to 2 years for manufacturer calibratoins to become fully mature and set so vehicles are reliable and meet economy and emission targets, but 20 minutes for a numpty with a laptop and no test equipment other than a rolling road who knows better than all the Engineers working for the manufacturer to make your calibration better? Draw your own conclusions. As I said at the beginning, if it really were that easy, then it would have left the factory with it.

As had been said on many occasions on this forum (don't people ever search?) if it is only going into limp home infrequently, then a couple of tankfuls of premium diesel (optimax/vPower etc) or adding some high detergent additive (eg. millers) can really make a difference. The detergent additives don't just work on the way in, but all through the system, even after being burnt. A lot cheaper and less messy than taking the turbo off. Obviously won't work if vanes are stuck solid. George.

Easy answer to this: Mk1 Diesels are 60,000miles, Mk2 come in 2 varieties: early cars (pre 2003) are 40,ooo miles, later ones are back at 60,000. Originally the Mk2 belt was narrower and had a different tensioner. Fix was to a wider belt (only ones available now) and a new tensioner. Despite wider belt, VW would not warrant extending the service limit back to 60,000. George.

2004 = Mk2, so only Galaxy light units will fit. Best thing to do is look to dismantlers/ebay as new ones as you point out are outrageously priced. Would masking (properly located as per TIS/TSB instruction be ok for plating purposes? George.

The job is relatively easy as long as you have access to a long breaker bar and a GOOD socket set - the hub nut (27mm hex) needs to be tightened to 150Nm, then a further 90

...Anddont forget all that lovely air filter oil contaminating your MAF sensor!

The motors on the lamps are VW Golf Mk4 parts - the part number on mine started with 1J0. GSF/Euro car parts? Trade Parts Supply? George.

Have a look at the attached. Be careful of the page breaks - the templates you need are the bottom 2 (descriptions of which is which are above each diagram!) Please note, if you have the 'steering' headlamps, the masking is different. mk3_headlight_masking.pdf

What other right hand side is there?

Your local Ford Dealer? They aren't too expensive - they cost about

E-Tis shows it as being in the right hand side rear wing, just in front of the lights.

Ok, as I said, there is no reference on e-cat, but if it is the same as the top bolts, these are M6 x 10. If you want to get the second top bolt out, without shearing it, try removing it while the engine/manifold are hot. Not a guarantee for success, but it usually works. Good luck with drilling/tapping out the broken bolt. Put the new bolts in with a good coat of "Neverseez", like you would have on the spark plugs, and you should be able to get them out again if ever you need to. George.