Denis

Any idea what the fault's were Vinny?, ie "misfire on cyl 1", etc?

I have browsed other VW orientated sites and it seems the ECU fault logging is pretty sensitive and precise, so it's odd that Dally's doesn't show any codes. Mine is booked in on Wednesday, will post if anything shows up. Of course it could be the gearbox I suppose?

Both of my Gal's have done this, the tyre specialist said it was mainly due to slow speed cornering/ manouvering in car parks etc where the power steering lets you go lock to lock while almost stationary.

I'm beginning to think my V6 has some kind of misfire. Very occasionally it does a kangaroo type jumping thing when I accelerate from say 20 to 30. But it seems all the time there is a kind of hesitance, hard to describe- very slight, as if I am always driving over a slightly bumpy road. I thought that the ECU would warn me if there was a problem, via the engine warning light on the dash- I know it is capable of detecting a faulty coil pack perhaps because of the unburnt petrol in the exhaust?

Yes, replacing a diode would be simple but the 'resin' bothers me, perhaps the diode and it's connections are encased in epoxy resin? Hope not. Funny though, I do component level repair for a living and a diode going open circuit is very rare. Normally they just go short.

Yes I have the same problem. It is intermittent though and as my wife drives the car most of the time (I prefer to ride my bike) I haven't bothered much with it. though the dratted wind noise from the top of the drivers door drowns out most noises!!!

Iain, do you mean the top of the door is bent towards the car, so it presses on the door seal harder? And how much force is needed to do this?

This was discussed here a while ago, several facelift models had a problem with wind noise at the top of the drivers door. I finally got round to having mine looked at by the local Ford dealer today. Thay claimed to have cured the problem by adjusting the door but surprise surprise, driving home the problem is worse than ever. So, anyone know what exactly needs to be done to cure the problem? I thought perhaps a modified rubber door seal?

err.. I sprayed mine with Servisol and it lasted a couple of years before I sold the car.. :rolleyes:

:lol: :o :o

High voltages? What voltage is used on the headlights? :lol:

I went for a spin last night and tried to see if there was any difference whan I selected normal or recirc. and no, the air from the roof vents remained just as cool so I think you have it Nimrod ta, it's only the heating that's affected.

What does the manual mean when it says the rear air conditioning "operates only in recirculated air mode"? I had assumed the air coming out of the rear roof vents was already air conditioned, according to the setting on the cc module, does this mean the rear of the car can only be properly cooled if I select 'recirc'?

At Shell you get a scratchcard whenever you fill up with Optimax- you scratch the card and inhale the smelling salts, just in case you feel faint when you see how much that tankful cost.

OK I know this has been discussed before and the concensus was that economy and performance weren't affected one iota but I saw this on the Daily Telegraph website, obviously some cars do prefer super.. What kind of fuel am I? I have a 1995 Volvo 850 T5 estate with automatic transmission. It has covered 92,000 miles and has a full Volvo service history. I am very disappointed with its economy. I have written to Volvo but it does not have much information available. Apparently I should get 27mpg at a steady 70mph but I cannot better 24, no matter how carefully I drive. R.K., Evesham Are you using 98Ron petrol, as the handbook advises? In Britain, this means Shell Optimax. Lower-octane petrol saps about 20bhp and increases fuel consumption.

:unsure: :blink: :D

A simpler, though probably less accurate way of testing the efficiency of your A/C system was demonstrated to me by a guy who recharged my Scorpio system a few years back. He simply put the fan on max, face vents open fully, and turned the temperature to fully cold. Then he dangled a digital thermometer probe in the air flow coming out of the vents and said it should be around 8 deg C, no more than 10. I'm sure a normal glass thermometer could be substituted for the digital jobbie as long as it's held in the air for long enough.

Strangely, I read an recent article by a Auto Gearbox repair engineer who said Jatco boxes were the best in the world! Doesn't seem to fit with the experiences some folk on here have had. The Daily Telegraph motoring correspondent 'Honest John' lists some more good autobox repairers,

Yes, the noise still occurs even with nothing running. When I'm parked up with the ignition key fully anticlockwise (everything off except the radio) it's there, every 5-10 minutes, I think it's mocking me! :D

Well- I did ask a silly question! :D

Not a big deal, but something in my dash makes regular noises, just like the cackle magpie's make! It's barely audible while driving but sitting in the car with the ignition off, it's quite noticeable! :lol:

Last car- 99T Galaxy, total failure when a year old, required compressor replacement though ran perfectly for the next three years after that.

Mr T, my car shows the same thing, a lumpiness when idling at cold though as the rev counter remains steady I have assumed it is just a characteristic of the engine/ transmission.

I had a similar saga with my brake light bulbs, replacing them every couple of months. When I finally had the sense to read the instructions I realised they were halogen bulbs and I had been fitting them with bare hands, shortening their life.

Out of interest, is the 2.0 engine the DOHC 8 valve the Sierra and Granada used to have?