Denis

Sorry guys, like I said I haven't been on here for a while. Signature updated. :D car is still a 03 V6 auto. Had another listen today and the noise appears to come from the area around the fuel filter and catalyst, under the car. And it definitely sounds like a high voltage (several kV) spark, though of course I realise there aren't any voltages of that magnitude under there. And if it was a coil pack problem I'm sure there would be misfiring problems... and it wouldn't be every 5 seconds either. :P

Hello all, I was only thinking the other day how reliable my Gal's been and I haven't posted a problem on here for ages... :lol: Now I've got a strange ticking noise, actually sounds exactly like a high voltage spark every 5 seconds or so. It seems to come from underneath the car, directly below the front seats. Otherwise the car is running fine, no warning lights etc apart from a mysterious 'check brake pads' yesterday even though they've all been replaced quite recently. Any suggestions are welcome. :lol:

Yeah, strange that the rears seem to wear out more quickly than the front.

Been there and done it. Ford don't give a sh.t. Since I bought my v6, I have had a random misfire on acceleration - happens once a month may be but doesn't show up as a fault. I also get a little vibration and harshness at around 1100 rpm - a local vw specialist (C&R enterprises) told me to change all 6 plugs and all 6 coil packs. I took all this information and the USA recall reports to Ford but they just did not care. I gave up in 2004 and have put up with it since then. I did think about changing them last month when it had it's 30,000 mile service - I thought the plugs would be changed in the service and I'd cough up the additional

I'm not sure if it benefits the Mk1 170 bhp engine but the later one (according to the owners manual) is meant to give better economy and more power if you use Super Unleaded petrol. It's been discussed on here before and the claims re. economy are doubtful, unless anyone has done some comparisons on a rolling road we'll have to speculate about the power improvement- if any. I usually fill mine up with Super, it seems to run more smoothly on that. Shame about the cost of some brands though, especially Shell Optimax!! B)

Ok then, anyone guess why I find a Galaxy such a useful car? :( http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/denisconnolly/IMG_9638.jpg

How about the Continental energy savers that are fitted to some recent model Galaxy's? About 10% (claimed when used on all four wheels) improvement in economy could pay for itself pretty quickly.

Yeah I use newspaper when I clean the inside of my windows, only for the final drying/ polishing bit, works a treat. I've been using Rain-x on the windscreen for a few months, since I read about it on here. It works really well though has to be reapplied frequently as the wipers (if you do use them) seem to wear it away.

JToh I'll watch the outcome of this with interest, we have the same problem and I suspect in the end the cure will be the same for both of us. I'm a bit doubtful about the booster heater being the cause- mine's a V6 so doesn't have one.

Mine were repaired a few months ago by the dealer (free of charge 'cos they damaged them) and instead of attempting to redo the original Ford lacquer over polished alloy finish, they just sprayed them with silver paint. To my eye the finish is very good and is probably tougher and longer lasting than the original so I'm happy. Only thing is, you'd have to have all four wheels done at the same time because the colour is different. I thinks there's a lot of firms about that do this, maybe ask at your local tyre depot?

Just to add my observation, when I messed up the programming of a new key my V6 behaved exactly like that- started and cut out after a few seconds, obviously the action of the immobiliser.

You seem to have the same problem as me JToh, see here. I started a new thread without realising you had also posted on this subject today, let's hope we can get somewhere with this annoying problem. :ph34r:

Hi guys, I've read the other posts on this subject but still aren't sure where the problem lies. The problem is a fairly intermittent 'Workshop Alternator' message flashing up on the dash display, it can go several days without doing it and then do it four or five times on one journey, the message only appears for a few seconds. Checks I have done myself: Check battery connections, check the high power fusebox- everything tight and in good condition. Batt voltage 12V when engine off, rising to 14.3 when running, alternator copes with changes in load well. No problems starting- engine spins over ok. Checks done by the dealer: Not sure exactly but they say they have carried out charging/ battery checks and checked for fault codes, a waste of a day really because they said they couldn't find anything wrong (it didn't show up for them). The car is still under warranty but there's no point in repeatedly taking it to the dealer as they can't seem to do anything unless they see the fault... even if they did, I have already told them what happens so why insist on seeing it themselves, it only wastes a lot of everyones time. If necessary I could hook a DVM up to the cigarette lighter socket (at last! found a use for it) and keep an eye on the voltage... any other suggestions gratefully received.

Didn't work on mine either Blatters, though I have noticed the same- sometimes it's really bad and other times not there at all. I also have an annoying rattle inside the dash, passenger side, hope you may figure out a solution for that one too! :ph34r:

Thanks Blatters, my doors have been rattling like mad recently, I've been avoiding doing anything about it 'cos I thought it would be a big job involving damaged door cards and cut fingers. Will try the same on mine. <_<

My alloys were refurbished recently by my local dealer at their own expense after they caused damage by levering off the centre caps (Ghia wheels) with a screwdriver. After I got the car back the dashboard rattles were much much worse than ever before! :( Looking at the car I noticed that the tyres seemed rather deflated, in fact they were 24psi all round instead of the correct 42/37 F/R specified in the manual. I pumped them up to the correct level and hey presto, no more rattles! http://www.timetriallingforum.co.uk/style_emoticons/default/Thumbup.gif Two thoughts.. surely the dealer or refurbisher should have pumped the tyres up correctly, no?? And I find it surprising that underinflated tyres cause so many vibrations and rattles in the car, I thought it would have had a dampening/ softening effect.

I used to have a problem starting my T reg auto, sometimes the selector lever needed pushing sideways to make it start. The cure was slight up/ down adjustment if the inhibitor sensor. It's not a switch but an infra red emitter and receiver that detects the position of the selector- this has a slotted plate at the bottom that blocks the beam in certain positions. The worst problem misalignment or failure of the inhibitor sensor could cause is failure to start or allowing you to turn the starter over when in gear, once you've started the car everything should be normal. I can't imagine why you have the clunky/ jerky problems now??

I've just picked mine up from the dealers, they've refurbished the wheels at their expense so another success story. The spray that's been used has a slight grey tint which doesn't quite match the centre caps but I think it's going to be a more durable alternative to the original lacquer finish. http://www.timetriallingforum.co.uk/style_emoticons/default/Thumbup.gif

Thanks for doing the maths on this Andrew T, you've confirmed what I have always suspected about petrol vs diesel running costs. :( Though I think you forgot to factor in the cost of a couple of MAF's and an aux heater into the list of expenses for the diesel. :angry:

It might depend on the year... I had an N reg Mondeo that didn't flash the indicators even though it was a Ghia so had an alarm. The father in law got one six months later and his did flash the indicators. I think it's set in the computer so can probably be 'switched on'.

Oh dear :lol: blatters, try different allen keys holes (they are all fake), the closer you get to the 'key' (you'll see what I mean when you get one off) the easier it gets. I have used a real allen key on mine, it's easier to use than the tool Ford supply.

Blatters you just put the hook inside one of the allen key holes and pull, off it comes. http://www.timetriallingforum.co.uk/style_emoticons/default/Thumbup.gif

The only problem I'm aware of is failure of the timing chain tensioner, only a cheap bit of plastic but it's a massive job to get to it- engine out/ major stripdown. There is a good thread with pictures (or a link, not sure) on here.

That's a lot!! Are the pin switches working properly on all doors, including the bonnet?