Denis

As far as revs go, 70mph = 3000 rpm on mine.

Logically, I think that once the pads have worn down to the wire, the warning light should remain on- ie logged in the computer until reset. This is for safety reasons- I could imagine some people might just ignore a warning lamp that only came on when they braked- as would be the case if the circuit was simple bulb, one end connected to +12 and the other end earthed through the pad sensor wire. So my guess is that a visit to a dealer will be necessary to reset the computer.

I have the same problem, it amazes me how this can happen when my previous V6's (Scorpio and Mondeo) were perfectly smooth. Just a thought but is it possible it's because we're not using Super Unleaded? Here's a couple of quotes from the Daily Telegraph motoring agony aunt, Honest John, who seems to think it makes a difference. Q: Our K-reg Saab 900 XS has developed an impossible-to-diagnose fault. Its engine begins to lose power a minute or two after running normally. It feels as if the brakes have suddenly been applied. A warning light comes on and the manual indicates a fuel-injection problem. The garage has checked everything, including the ECU, but the problem remains. We started using supermarket petrol about three months ago. Could that have had any effect? K.J., Isle of Wight A:There's your culprit. Switch to - and stick with - Shell Optimax. It might cost more than the stuff you've been using, but there are valid reasons for that. " Q:My Opel Omega automatic's engine developed a habit of suddenly cutting out for no apparent reason. It happened more than once while I was making a turning manoeuvre, during which I naturally lost my power steering and most of my braking. On one occasion I had the fright of my life. I was making a right turn - with a police car in view and heading towards me - when the engine died without warning. I failed to make the turn and had to restart, back up and begin all over again. Vauxhall agents came up with various ideas, including the possibility that the vehicle needed rewiring because stray electrical fields must be upsetting the electronics - a prospect that did not appeal to me or to my bank manager. Fortunately, shortly afterwards I read your comments about the quality of supermarket petrol. I cleaned out the fuel system, started buying only Shell or Texaco and have not had a problem since. J.H., Ferndown A:Very many thanks for sending this in. I must receive at least 50 e-mails per week from people who simply don't believe me and, ignoring my warnings, fill their high-performance cars with any old supermarket rubbish. I know- different cars, different faults, but worth considering.

You could eliminate the ignition system quite easily yourself by pulling the HT leads off one at a time, normally this would make the idling even worse. But if you pull the lead off one of the spark plugs and there isn't a significant worsening then you have isolated the problem to one particular HT lead/ plug etc.

Bet they give a 10% loss of grip too! :lol: Mike Well... I don't know, my 'other car' is a bike and I use Conti tyres on that as well. They use the same technology as the car tyres- Silica rubber, they roll better and grip better at the same time. The bike tyres wear a lot quicker but I have found the car tyres last quite well, similar to the Dunlop 2020's I used to use, about 10k on the front.

Worth pointing out that Continental claim that their 'Ecosaver' tyres give a 10% improvement in fuel economy. I can get 28mpg on a steady 70mph motorway run, rather less when I'm on the open road and give the lady a chance to growl! http://freeforums.bizhat.com/html/emoticons/naughty.gif

In case anyone else is considering using Ford Parts UK I have found them to be very helpful, even answering emails on a Sunday afternoon! :o

Sorry guys- it was my fault. The trick was to synchronise both keys within twenty seconds, I was being too slow. Now they both work!

Apol's if this has been covered before though I can't find any threads to do with this particular problem. I have bought a spare remote key for my car and successfully programmed it to start the car, this was achieved by turning to position III within five seconds etc. So now both remote keys will unlock the doors manually and start the car. The new key wouldn't lock/ unlock the car via remote though, and reading the manual I thought it might need to be synchronised. I did this and hey presto, it worked! But then the original key wouldn't lock/ unlock via remote. I synchronised the original key- which then worked again- but then the new one stopped locking/ unlocking via remote. So I can't get both of them locking/ unlocking via remote at any given time. :o Please help!

Well the fan belt (or multi belt?) tensioner is a common cause of high pitched whining noises on the 2.3 engine. At first it is very subtle- I noticed mine long before my wife could hear it. It takes several '000 miles to get to be a serious nusiance. I think I am correct riz, that the pitch of the noise varies with the revs of the engine?

I've just noticed two of the three hinges for the fabric covered lid that covers the CD changer enclosure are broken and the lid is flopping about. The hinge parts that have broken are not on the lid but part of the enclosure. I can't figure out what I'm going to have to buy to cure it- anyone else had this? I was going to tell the kids off for breaking it until I realised I was the last person in the family to touch it. :unsure:

A tip when trying to find a wire that has a broken core- pulling on each wire in turn will help identify which one is broken. The wire with a broken core will stretch like elastic where the break is. This works best if you can do it somewhere warm so the plastic is soft.

In that case I think it's 'module replacement' gone mad! Changing the entire assembly at great cost when all that was probably wrong was maybe a dry joint or an open track on your original unit. :D But the cost of a technician to test the unit down to componant level would most likely cost even more! its cheaper and quicker now days just to replace the duff part! for example my daughters CD radio wont play CD's to strip it and find the fault is

In that case I think it's 'module replacement' gone mad! Changing the entire assembly at great cost when all that was probably wrong was maybe a dry joint or an open track on your original unit. :D

Nelse, what was the fault with yours that meant it had to be replaced, the vanishing trip computer or something more serious?

Let me know if Ford are able to resolve it. I'll then got on their case too! I rented an new type Mini one weekend as a treat for the kids and it was amazingly quiet compared to my Galaxy, it's not good enough is it? :lol:

Is the problem anything like this one? I still have this intermittent fault, after two visits to the dealers. :lol:

Ok I get it now, thanks! :lol:

Thanks MrT, I had a look at the site- maybe I'm doing something wrong but the only Galaxy spares I could see were rubber mats?

I want to buy a spare remote key for my car, also some yob has damaged one of the allen key effect nut covers on one of my wheels, trying to steal it. Is there anywhere I can buy these online?

Jerry you don't say what year your car is but I can confirm from experience with my T reg 2.3, as Ivor and Fredt have pointed out, the inhibitor switch does cause problems. Though I'm petty sure it's not a switch but an optical sensor (led and photodiode) in a plastic housing so it's difficult to 'short out' as such. In my case, pressing the gear selector sideways would make the fault come and go and adjusting the inhibitor 'switch' screw (locked with an orange sealant) cured the problem.

My neighbour came round tonight and told me I had left my lights on- though he wanted to know how I'd done it in such a strange way. And it was very odd- the rear tailgate number plate lights were on, also the dashboard lights- but nothing else! After a bit of fiddling I found the cause- with the car parked up and everything off, the rotary switch for the headlights (right hand side) can be pushed inwards though this seems to have no function. But if you push in and then turn the switch a fraction clockwise, the lights come on in the odd way I found and locks in position. I can only assume that my missus or the kids knocked the switch with a bag or something and that is how it happened. Strange, eh!

When I bought my Gal from Ford Direct it had 7,000 miles on the clock and the dealer stamped the service book to confirm a service had been carried out, even though it wasn't really due yet. They said the next service wouldn't be due until 17,000 miles. I don't mean to be cynical but it is possible that the dealer could have 'forgotten' to do the service and just stamped the book. When I picked the car up, the dashboard was saying something about 'service due' though it hadn't done that during the test drive. I am now on 14,000 miles and the engine oil looks a deep orange colour. Just wondering if it would be sensible to pay to have an interim oil change done, just in case?

Ivor, I was wondering what is the PD system of the engine and what's it got to do with the oil?