wood73

usually a result of a damp pollen filter.

does it take abit longer to start when it is cold? but start fine with little or no smoke when it is warm, if so it could be a slight fuel leak where it draws in air when standing, this usually clears after about 30 seconds or less.

check the exhaust hasn't got a blockage, the fibre in the rear box could have blocked the pipe, or the cat could be blocked.

you'll probably find that warranty dosent cover alloy wheels, A chap I know had the same problem with a 12mth old shogun, only his wheels were blistering on the face, they looked like 20 year old ford alloys, mitsubishi wouldnt cover the wheels!

well thats not the habit i was looking for!!

slow leakage from tyres on alloy rims, it is an age old problem, the rims oxidise where they contact the tyre due to water based tyre paste, the coating seperates and the air leaks under the coating. the short term fix is to get your local tyre depot (avoid big nationals like kwikfit etc.) to remove the tyre, wirebrush the rim and fit with 'rimseal' this is a thicker compound which dries into a rubber like compound which seals the contact area. On badly oxidised wheels it may be necesary to do this every few months. the long term fix is to get the wheels refurbished, but this could cost upto

my uncle runs his 2002 vw bora tdi on veggie oil, he buys it from lidl in 3 litre bottles and pours it straight in, he has done for about 2 years, never had a problem, just changes fuel filter regularly, i think he mixes it with diesel, but not sure exactly. when i see him ill ask him.

it depends how thick and black the smoke is, if it is just generally dark and dirty - try changing the fuel filter. if it is thick black- could be a seal in the turbo. i'd try the filter first.

if the tensioner has failed, there will be a very noticable rattle, this happened to mine and I ended up replacing the engine as it was easier, i got hold of a second hand unit for

check the breather pipes to the right of the maf, there is one that comes out the head and goes into the inlet and one that comes out of the inlet and goes to a valve behind the maf, these both caused me similar problems, other than that i would say vac pipes.

the 2.3 is the same unit that was fitted to the later granada's IIRC they also fitted them to sierra's. Didnt know about the sierras, thought the only 2.3 sierra was the old Diesel lump they definately done a 2.3ghia on i think it was the mk2, but not 100% thats the same engine

the 2.3 is the same unit that was fitted to the later granada's IIRC they also fitted them to sierra's.

is there any way of testing the wires running to the maf? i.e. output test on the connectors in the plug. otherwise i will have to get on the phone to gsf.

it could need the fault resetting i.e. codes cleared, in order for the abs light to go out. check the brake pad sensors for the brake light, but not sure how they work on these, most cars the sensor shorts to earth, but the on some like the rover 75 the sensor wears and crosses the wires to make a circuit. could be way off but its worth a look.

when i plug in the maf on mine it wont idle, seems to run ok, when i unplug it it idles perfectly but is slightly hesitant when i pull away. i replaced with a bosch exchange unit and it made no difference at all, but vag.com comes up with a fault saying low signal. so at present i'm just using it with it unplugged!

yes it was a golf vr6 engine, dont think ford engines will fit with it being essentially a vw apart from the 2.3, i would imagine they would use different gearboxes etc.

after hours of trawling through posts i cant find the answer, when locking the drivers door only the drivers door and fuel cap lock, the light on the door dosent come on at all except when i turn the ignition on. all the windows work fine. this wouldnt cause a problem except i have no way of locking the boot hatch. does anyone have any ideas?

after reading many posts about engine oil grades, does anyone know the correct grade i should be using? after changing my engine i filled with 10w40 semi synthetic, is this the right one or do i need 5w30? thanks in advance

picture books are for children, seriously though taking pics was the last thing on my mind, but now its done, and if anyone needs any advice then just ask. the first piece of advice i'll give is TAKE IT TO A GARAGE AND PAY THE PRICE!!.

now I think about it, it was a 36mm hex socket. but haven't you just unbolted the engine from the filter :lol: yes but the engine i put in had a damaged filter housing, so I neede to change it :D

running it is then! cheers nik

I have replaced the engine in my v6, the engine i put in came out of a manual golf, upon swapping the auto box over i lost most of the gearbox oil. I have read various posts and some say fill to level with engine running and some just say fill to level. i have just filled to level with engine off, it was fine for a couple of miles but then started changing up and down willy nilly. so back to the point, can someone give me a definative answer - do you fill to level with engine running or not? by the way local fraud dealer(evans halshaw, wrexham) said what do you want to change the oil for? then said theyed have to get back to me when he has checked procedure!.

now I think about it, it was a 36mm hex socket.

27mm socket and a racthet is what i used.

thanks for the advice had a look this morning and 2 of the leads on the top row of the coil looked to be crossing over each other so swapped them round, straight away it was better, but still a bit of a miss. unplugged the maf and hey presto sweet as a nut. only problem is now the auto box is playing up so time for a post on that. thanks again