MadBaz

Turning the gal into fully independent heating and integrating it into the existing electronics is quite complex. I've done it without a second battery but it required 5 relays, a time clock, a delay off relay, a 2ch pulse timer (for the alarm & blower), 3 switches and around 30 metres of cable. I can completely control the heating now, next project is to add rf/gsm control at a reasonable price.

Definitely a sensor in o/s/r pad and iirc o/s/f. I have had the rear pad cable break right on the connector easily fixed by soldering the connector off an old pad and with a bit of heat shrink tube.

Thanks for the input fellas, I understand how a conventional turbo works, my truck has just passed 600k kms with the original, the car however has just clocked 120k miles, I think I'll be giving the bb version a miss, although I was almost sold by the sales patter.

I'm in the market for a re-manufactured turbo, I've been in contact with a local company that say they can replace the journal bearing with a ball bearing cartridge, some machining is required, I just wondered if anyone has any experience good or bad or just opinions with such a conversion. I'm slightly suspect as I would've thought early turbos would've gone down the bb route before someone came up with the idea of using jb's.

As some of you may know I have installed a independent heating system in the car, it was until today just a timer to start the booster, however I have now wired up the ATC to it and it works :-))). The bad news is my neighbours may get annoyed with me as I get up at stupid o clock and they may not like the alarm going off when the front blower starts to blow warm air. So my question, does anyone know what inputs/connections have to be made to disable the interoir alarm sensors whilst the front blowers are on? I'd rather not have the alarm disabled (double press remote) if at all possible.

Load of tosh, recon VVT can be sourced, but they need to be balanced both on the shaft (vibration) and airflow. Who advised you that the turbo was on it's way out and what are the symptoms, if any?

No need to tap into the wires at the door, open fuse box and the connector at the TOP RIGHT (next to the fuse puller) should have the open/close wires from the drivers door. Pin 25 (2nd up on right, grey wire) should be open and pin 17 (4th down on right, green/red wire) close. The indicator wire I wouldn't connect directly to earth as it seems the unit has an earth already. The gal as far as I know doesn't have a single circuit to operate both sides of indicators/side-lights, no need for the boot wire unless you just want to un/lock the boot, you still have to manually operate it past the 2nd position anyhow (not recommended, as it's far too easy to shut it with keys inside). Apologies.

I've had simi;ar issues with no apparent reason, so I switched to CREE bulbs (very bright LED) not cheap at £15 a pair but no probs since.

Don't take this the wrong way but for anyone else that's wondering, 288/300mm refers to the diameter, easy to measure with a tape measure. <runs and hides>

Don't the newer cars use glow plugs in the coolant circuit to warm up quickly?

This has got to be a record, the first booster heater post of the year and in early sept. BTW mine was very smoky Monday morning (4 am). Mine's on a home made timer so at least the smoke cleared before I'd finished walking the dog, it did look scary though ;) .

...oops never occurred to me, apologies if any offence taken.

Whatever you do DON'T 'light' one on the bus.

They occasionally come up on fleabay for a reasonable amount (iirc mine was £20) but the stealers want a fortune, £60 at Vw and £70 at Frauds. VW part number 038 145 771 AA.

It's for sticking the seatbelt anchor clips in, if they're in the way when sticking Aunty Mabel's wardrobe in the boot.

Ha Ha, what a load of tosh, as a truck driver I never see anything like the stats posted on that poll, especially the roundabout bit (I think the stats are reversed). Where are the BMW drivers? they're surely the rudest, most aggressive & most ignorant followed very closely by Audi drivers.

I've had a squeal coming from the engine for a few weeks now, started just after exhaust mid pipe was fitted, decided to investigate today, I couldn't get the exhaust off the turbo to have a look at the turbine or check play on the shaft, had a good look for air leaks and had a looksy at the charge air pipe, intercooler-egr, and it's contaminated with fresh shiny metal shavings along with a copious amount of oil, damn and double damn, looks like catastrophic failure isn't far away. Sorting the turbo shouldn't be too much of a problem, once I get it off, can the air pipes & intercooler be cleaned reliably, if so what would peeps recommend?

I'd be checking the tailgate wiring inside the o/s gaitor, check the FAQ's.

I can't remember what the fuses are for, but the correct name for that fusebox is Battery Junction Box, which is what it is, the main battery/alternator feeds for various parts of the car originate from this box. It's also worth checking the thick cable for signs of overheating (common problem).

If you passed your test after 1st Jan 1997 the max trailer/caravan that can be towed with a 1.9 TDI Gal (without passing B+E) is 1030kg MAM/GVW (3500kg combo MAM rule, 3500 minus 2470kg Galaxy MAM = 1030kg). (the rules change in January 2013, to a max of 750kg for towing). If you passed before 1997 then the max is 2000kg (1800kg for DOHC engines) Manufacturers max permissible weight. Max unbraked trailer is 700kg, all trailers over 750kg (MAM) must be braked anyway by law. Max nose weight is 85kg. The 85% of laden vehicle, is a recommendation only, for post 97 license holders the MAM of the trailer can't exceed the laden weight of the vehicle any way, but with the gal that's irrelevant anyhow as the lightest kerb weight at around 1670kg (depending on spec/variant) already exceeds the max of 1030kg (MAM) that can be legally towed.

I didn't bump this thread honest, just out of curiosity, di anyone ever find out if the cc light could be activated?

Everything but the mileage and blowers could be the wiring in the door and/or tailgate gaiters.

Nowts changed then, I used to work in cycles many pork pies ago, with the usual complaints on the staff side, they want you on the shop floor and in the back doing repairs/builds, merchandising and on the till. Then they blame you when a middle class dork changes his handlebar rake on a bike you built and comes a cropper. I must admit the customer service is a bit hit and miss, with one dedicated member of staff servicing various departments, but there's always a group of 3 spotty youfs hanging around the stainless tailpipe extensions with staff badges on, taking it in turns to pounce on the potential ICE/satnav customers. As for the servicing technicians, let's just say they stare in wonderment every time they see a car and realise the wheel has been invented.

Your Quite welcomehttp://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/public/style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif, sorry I don't have an auto, I guess that most posts on this forum that seem not to rate them might be influenced by that peeps need help when they've gone wrong, not many peeps post when they're working as intended. Buying any auto car is like buying a lottery ticket, it all depends on how it's been driven & serviced previously. As for your question regarding any good auto galaxys, I didn't really understand, it's a bit like asking if there are any good manual galaxys. People on here are usually quite friendly and will help wherever possible when they understand the question, berating people will alienate them and should you ever need the vast knowledge available on here and other galaxy forums (of which many members belong to) you may find that help not so forthcoming. I'm off to enjoy my bank holiday weekend, cleaning out my EGR using the fantastic advice available.

Some Most windscreen companies don't fit OE glass they have pattern parts manufactured, assuming as SK said, you don't have aftermarket tints, complain to your insurance co if you don't get any redress dealing with glass co direct.