sparky Paul

Well, after replacing the pipe with the hole and the dryer, the Galaxy went in for a re-gas today and all seems well. Mmmm... cold air again. ^_^ After doing a bit of reading up elsewhere, it went to Kwik-Fit for the

I agree, I think it would be particularly helpful for the technical side of things. Whilst there aren't many members that own a mk.3 yet, the number is bound to increase...

I reckon that would be a very sensible way to go, Galaxy I/II and Galaxy III are completely different beasts. Apart from some shared petrol engine and gearbox heritage, the only other common ground is the raft of crummy Ford dealers...

The tensioner pulley assembly is the same for the 2.0 and 2.3, part number 1148358. However, before anyone dives in and buys it, please be aware that the one in the eBay listing is incomplete! There is no pulley on the tensioner, obviously the guy selling it has used the pulley to repair his own car - he couldn't be bothered to change the whole thing. The tensioner assembly 1148358 comes from the dealer complete, with the pulley attached, and the pulley is not sold separately. :lol:

Pretty straight forward I believe.

For parts like that, you're struggling really - main dealer supply only. I have had a few parts from here... www.fordpartsuk.com ...who are a Ford dealer who sells online, most parts seem to be discounted by 15% from list, but shipping is an extra

This can be ruled out for later '98-on models, as the central locking module is not there.

Those two pipes go to the EGR system pressure transducer. If the pipe connections are oily, it could be worth giving them a clean before shoving the pipes back on, it might help the rubber grip a bit better.

Best place to find the electrical schematics is a TIS CD. There shouldn't be any major problems, although it is worth noting that there were major changes in the electrical system around 1998 - mk.1 models manufactured in 1997 (and sold into '98) have major differences in electrical systems to the later '98/'99 models.

Welcome to the forum! :( Do you have any problems engaging 1st or reverse with the engine off? If not, then the clutch is transmitting drive when it shouldn't be. If it's an intermittant problem, and with your description of the feeling of the clutch pedal when depressing the throttle, my guess would be a fault with the pressure plate, i.e. something broken, or the clutch friction plate breaking up. The pedal moving may just be a symptom of the pressure plate applying uneven pressure due to some failure within it, or that the whole mechanism is damaged or being fouled with friction material. Any problems with slipping? Try releasing the clutch quickly in 3rd with high revs and a 30mph road speed, see if the revs drop quickly. It's very possible that you could feel any mechanical problems through the hydraulic clutch, I can feel the dry release bearing through mine.

This is who I bought mine off... http://stores.ebay.co.uk/MNC-AUTOMOTIVE-LTD Excellent service too. He has some listed in his shop at the moment, Mintex pads but the discs don't appear to be Mintex - I would avoid anything unbranded. You could try this seller... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-GALAXY-MINTEX-F...emZ260145342482

I can recommend both the Mintex discs and pads - I've had a set on for two years/25,000 miles and still looking good. :)

If yours is a mark 1, it should have the standard 288mm discs fitted, even with 16" wheels. To make double sure, I would measure them... :) If it's like my 99 Zetec with 16" alloy wheels 215/55 tyres, the discs are the (cheaper) 288mm ones.

I suspect that the only answer will be another new door lock barrel matched to your original key. I've never bought one from Ford, but I would think that a main dealer should be able to order one to match your other locks from your VIN and registration number.

I could have said the same about ours a few months ago - apart from wearing and service items, I've only replaced a trackrod end and a drop link in 50,000 miles and 4 years. In the last couple of months, however, it's been one thing after another. Unfortunately, although the car's only done 70,000 miles, it's getting to an age where components are deteriorating... :)

Grrr... :unsure: You tempt fate... :)

I've found a little more info about the oil situation. Tucked away in the VSTMs on the Ford TIS, it tells you the amounts of oil to add to each component when changing individually. For the dryer, it says that the quantity removed plus 30-40ml should be added. It also states that the total system oil should be 135ml, I assume for the single evaporator system. The oil fill for the other components is 30-40ml for the evaporator or condensor, and the for the compressor exactly the same amount as was in the original one. I added a little oil to the new dryer, but I will add more oil tomorrow to take the level in the dryer to around 50ml, before getting it regassed. Hope this might be of help to someone else. :unsure:

On a vehicle of that age, I would check the wiring in the tailgate flexy - if it hasn't already been repaired - It only takes a couple of minutes to check. The reversing lamp switch is on the top of the gearbox. I don't think it's difficult to remove, but you could just short out the plug first, see if the lamps come on - will at least tell you if the switch is kaput.

Well, it's all back together, but not without a struggle... Job fell at the first hurdle, couldn't undo the torx bolt on the dryer securing the pipe union block. Smashed one torx bit. Found another one, more substantial, ground chamfer off the end so it would bite better, unbolted dryer and unclipped condensor pipe so dryer could be pulled down an inch or so... After many bad words, managed to remove bolt, but it was very tight - it was corroded into the alloy block. Bolt now pretty chewed, replaced with a hex head - which has to be exactly the same length. Replacing pipe (dryer to expansion valve) was interesting, to say the least. After a few routing errors (there's lots of other pipes and cables to fiddle the new pipe around), finally got it back in. Had to bend the solid clutch pipe away from bulkhead so bend on aircon pipe would pass behind. Had some difficulty lining up the pipes into the ports on the dryer, a bit of tugging and bending seems to have sorted that. I'm a little concerned about the corroded pipe block on the dryer, but it all seemed tight enough. To be honest, a few bits of the front pipework don't look too sexy. I'm not sure about the oil situation. I read elsewhere there should be some oil in the old dryer which you are supposed to extract, measure, and place an equal quantity of new oil, plus a little more (say 20%), in the new dryer. Problem was, the old dryer was bone dry. A liitle oil came out with the gas, so I put a similar small amount into the dryer to replace it. I think I'll have to have a chat with my re-gassing chap. All in all, it hasn't been fun really. I was intending to take a few pics, but the job turned into a bit of a performance. In any case, I couldn't see much of what I was doing myself. Hopefully there won't be any leaks... ;)

It sounds like you're talking about the bit at the front onto the compressor itself, I was talking about the bit which goes right back to the bulkhead under the wiper motor. I'm just in the middle of doing mine, what a nightmare... will report back later... ;)

I suspect it will be unlikely as the modification to the VW manufactured mk.1/2 relies on the VW diesel engine and ECU. :D The mk.3 Galaxy is a completely Ford effort, based on the Mondeo/Volvo S60 platform, with all Ford engines, and built by Ford in Genk, Belgium.

I know the mk.2 aircon system is not the same as my mk.1, but looking at the TIS the pipe in question (the fat one to the compressor) looks very similar. The pipes on the bulkhead mounted expansion valves are removed by undoing the torx screw in the middle, this releases the block holding the two pipes in. On the mk.1, the pipe at the compressor end is jointed with a springlock coupling - you need these to undo them... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SEALEY-Air-Condition...emZ160124741065 Use new o-rings on reassembly, including on any other pipes that are disturbed, and lubricate with PAG46 oil.

Are you sure yours is a 'T' plate? :D A 'T' plate model is 1999 which is a mark 1 - which has the clock in the roof, not on the dash...

First of all, I would check that nothing has come adrift around the lock mechanism. If nothing seems out of the ordinary, then it's likely that that lock has something inside jamming it - either a foreign body or some part of the mechanism which has failed. As for removing the lock barrel, I would have to check with Mr Haynes or the Ford TIS, if you want to go that far... ;)

My apologies! ;) As if I would! ;) We know better than that on here... ;)