sparky Paul

No problem, glad to be able to point you in the right direction! :angry2:

Assuming all the fuses are okay, I would check the tailgate flexy wiring first of all, its a common failure point. Unclip the convoluted rubber boot which covers the wiring at the top right of the tailgate and check the wiring where the high level brake light pair split from the tailgate loom. If you do find a break here, its worth cutting into the loom and checking the rest of the tailgate wiring as it is likely that other wires will be showing signs of damage.

That one good thing. The itching was pretty irritating, but the headaches were nothing like I've ever experienced before, and the stomach pain had me doubled up. Never seemed to bother the kids... :46:

Not sure if this would be possible with chicken pox, as the live immunisation can still develop into shingles, and shingles can be passed on (by direct contact) as chicken pox to anyone not already carrying the virus. I wish I had been immunised though, I caught chicken pox a few years ago - OH had shingles, gave daughter chicken pox, and me too shortly after. I can confirm from personal experience that catching it later in life is no fun whatsoever, it made me very, very ill indeed.

If you stick your hand up the side of the dryer, the pressure switch is attached to the top of the dryer, and the connector is on the very top of that. As SK says, it should stop the compressor clutch operating if there's no gas. If the dryer has been removed, has the p/s been removed with it? I would have thought that the system should fail safe with the switch removed.

Nice work there mo4, you made a little person a lot happier. :lol: Interesting tool kit... is that the butter knife masquerading as a tyre lever? ;)

There are no visible fabric cords, and providing there is no evidence of any deformation of the tyre wall around the damage (indicating internal ply damage) then I wouldn't worry. Just keep any eye on it - any evidence of bulging, replace the tyre.

Most likely candidate is failure of the wiring through the tailgate flexible, insider's link above gives you the options for getting in... If you can get the key in, that's the easiest, but quite often the locks are siezed due to lack of use. I would keep on soaking it for a few days with the WD40, but if you don't have any joy then you may have to hack the tailgate panel... :rolleyes: I would check to see if the lock is actually siezed (highly likely), or if some kind person has inserted a foreign body - use a long, thin implement (piece of 1/16" gas welding rod is ideal) to have a feel inside the lock, see if it goes right to the bottom. You may be able to extract anything that shouldn't be there with tweezers or very fine snipe-nosed pliers.

These bearings are usually pressed in, sometimes chilled, and a bench press and some sort of improvised former to replace the proper tool is often the only way to get them out. As an absolute last resort, you could try (or get someone else to) running a stick weld around the inside of the stuck outer race. As the weld cools it contracts and shrinks the bearing race, usually enough for it to tap out. You have to take care not to damage the hub, but it's worked for me in the past - I've removed several outer bearing races this way.

I would say that it's almost certain that you haven't got remote locking, as it was only available with the luggage cover. If you haven't got the cover, or the the mounting brackets fitted for it, then you've had it - if the luggage cover had been removed at some point, there would be evidence of the mountings for it as I understand they are screwed into and through the rear interior trim panels. In addition, the remote is actually built into the key - a different key with two buttons is supplied for models with remote locking, the remote is not a separate fob type. If the keys you have look like the originals, then I would say no remote locking. Not sure about that one... it's possible I guess - the dealer is able to identify what mechanical parts are fitted from the VIN or registration number.

Remote locking was an option on the '99 Zetec, part of a 'convenience' option which also included the rear boot area cover - so if you haven't got the cover, it's likely that you haven't got the remote locking either. HTH ;)

Your tailgate lock is operating correctly. Turning they key to 9 o'clock opens the tailgate by manually overriding the normally solenoid-operated latch. In the event of power failure, you would not be able to open the tailgate without the key - if you can't get in without a key, the car is effectively secure... ...try getting in without a key. ;)

Another interesting one! Without any power at all, there wouldn't be a problem as the tailgate will be locked as soon as you slam it shut - the opening handle would not work. The tailgate doesn't have a separate lock as such, only the latch mechanism which is normally operated by a switch on the tailgate handle, but only when the car is unlocked. When the car is locked, the circuit to the solenoid is disconnected. However, if the central locking failed in such a state that this circuit was still connected, there is an obvious problem - one answer would be to remove the fuse to the circuit, which should hopefully prevent the tailgate from being opened.

Absolutely no quibbling. In fact, OH was ready to pay when they told her that there would be no charge - can't argue with that. The machine (Robinair Cooltech AC 650) does a leak test on the system, and it did not pick the leak up - normally they wouldn't proceed if a problem was detected. The machine tests for leaks under vacuum, I would guess that the o-rings on a poorly seated pipe wouldn't behave under vacuum as they would under pressure, and that may be why the leak wasn't detected. Still, I didn't expect them to regas it for free. Bloody hell, you're right! ;) I've been backwards and forwards that much with this one, I've got completely mixed up - I just had the figures from the original regas in my head. So they gassed it up wrongly the first time... definitely 550g on the first job sheet. :lol: Thanks seatkid, you're my hero... ...and I won't be making a fool of myself tomorrow. :ph34r:

Well, the good news first. New pipe from dryer to condensor was relatively easy to fit, certainly a lot easier than the one from the dryer to the evaporator. Managed to do it without removing the bumper, just had to detach the bottom brackets. OH took it back to Kwik-Fit who, top points to them, regassed it for free because their machine didn't detect the leak. Now the bad news. According to the printout, they have overcharged it with gas and oil. Aaargh! :rolleyes: What was I saying about the machine they use being 'idiot proof'? They have charged it as a front/rear aircon model, i.e. 900g of gas instead of 550g our standard single evaporator system needs... and they got it right first time they did it... :D Oh well, third time lucky. I could really do without this, we're going on holiday in the old bus this Saturday!

Good idea. It should work when deadlocked as either method acts directly on the linkage to the latch - and the key trick opens the tailgate when deadlocked, even when there is no power.

Good point. Mine works fine, but I do operate it this way occasionally - perhaps that's the answer. The cosmetic result is certainly better than carving up the tailgate trim!

:lol: Hope it helps someone out! ...or in... :wacko:

Obviously, this only applies to the tailgate as it's the only one which has solenoid assistance for opening, I imagine this is why this mechanical override is added to the tailgate. I suspect many people aren't aware of it because it needs quite a stiff turn past the normal unlock position. It certainly works, as I was using it to open the tailgate when the wiring in the tailgate flexy snapped, and I've also used it to open the tailgate with the battery disconnected.

I was under the impression that the mk.2 had the same locking/central locking/immobiliser set up as the completely revised one on the 98'-on mk.1, so I would have thought that the key trick would work. To be honest, I'm not sure if all the mk.1/2 tailgate lock mechanisms are the same, they certainly look much the same on TIS. :wacko:

Or... You can simply turn the boot key past the unlock position to the 9 o'clock position. The lock barrel has a mechanical linkage to open the tailgate in case of power loss, at least my 1999 mk1 does... :wacko: ...got to be easier than getting the Stanley knife out... :lol:

The saga continues... unfortunately... :( I tried the aircon again today. Hmmm... certainly not as cold as it was. :D Looked under the car... Aaaargh! Green goob on the bottom of the dryer! :o The joint I was concerned about on the dryer is weeping. Nipping the union block up onto the dryer made it worse, the corroded part of the block is causing it to twist rather than seat onto the new pipe properly. This block is part of the pipe which goes from the dryer to the condensor, so it's another new pipe needed... Local dealer has back ordered from Ford, pipe should be here in the morning. I asked about the reliability of delivery, and the chap helpfully confirmed that the item was on stock with Ford whilst I was on the phone, and promised a call in the morning as soon as the pipe arrives. Now the manual says this pipe is a headlights/front grill/bumper-off job, but I reckon I can fiddle it in by just undoing the bumper bottom brackets... :D Parts total so far...

Although that is a common problem, he says that gear selection is okay when the engine is not running, so I presume the linkages are fine.

Using a tea tree oil conditioner regularly seems to help keep them at bay. It's not going to be 100% effective, but our two have never had them... yet... ^_^ The Hedrin treatment is non-chemical, it works by coating and suffocating the little blighters - should be better for anyone likely to react to any of the chemical treatments. It's supposed to be very effective.