sepulchrave

Yes.

I'm sorry but I really don't see how the CC can have any relationship to coolant loss, it is a totally independant sealed system containing a small quantity of CFC based refridgerant. There is a condensate drip pipe as you have noticed but this is a red herring. You are losing coolant, and unless there is a head gasket issue and the coolant is being burnt then you have a leak, and it is most likely from the large ugly thermoplastic lego block located beneath your coil pack on the side of the block just above the bellhousing, this also contains the thermostat and it is nigh on impossible to test, you will have to remove it and visually inspect the interior to spot the problem. It is a common fault on VW engines once they have reached a certain age, and yours has! :D

Now I know this is gonna sound daft but... My thermostat housing only leaked visibly just before I took it off the road due to staggering levels of coolant loss. I can only guess that this is because the housing is thermoplastic and the cracking which caused the leaks was only opening up under pressure, as soon as the car was stopped the leak would stop. This is why I had to rip the entire face off my car because I didn't know where the leak was coming from, after all diagnosis is 9/10 of any awkward job. I would say in conclusion that your problem is 90% likely to be the thermostat housing since you have a VR6! :rolleyes:

If yours is a Bosch alternator then you can get them from any Bosch service centre, in fact pretty much any decent factors will be able to get them.

It's the brushes, replace them and all will be well (unless the commutator is worn out). I'm on my second set of brushes at 170,000 miles and the light is just starting to play up again, I know I'll need an exchange alternator this time because the commutator has had it, and it therefore wears out the brushes very quickly.

This is caused by having intermittant sensor fault usually due to broken wiring, just unplug the sensors until the abs light comes on and stays on.

I have to say that I seriously doubt that there are any physical differences in the head castings, why would Fraud change it? FWD or RWD have absolutely no bearing on head design whatsoever. Go for it I say.

"If they say to Ford "yes he did report it, but we mistakenly diagnosed it/ failed to find it" etc do they have anything to loose?" Yes, they'll have to buy the parts and do the work for nothing! :(

:D :lol: :lol: :D :D :D :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r:

Errrrr.... 2.0, 2.3 or 2.8 Petrol??????????? :16:

There you see, resistance is futile... :16:

...Beta blockers? :16:

Sounds like the leads to me, the problem got worse after you'd disturbed them. I'd replace all four then see if you need a coil pack. As regards plug number three the muppet who fitted them probably dropped it whilst replacing them and didn't bother to check it with his thumbnail. :16:

The high output PDi's are quite peaky anyway, this is why they have close ratio six-speed gearboxes now as standard. You will need to adapt your driving style.

That is not an easy question to answer, however since the total pressure throughout the system will remain largely unchanged at about 3 bar (since CFC's are basically incompressible), then the high pressure side would need to be ramped up by the compressor to at least 9 bar in order for the low pressure to drop below 1 bar. I don't know how high it goes but this does seem possible given the nature of the pipework and connections. The most important thing here is: Why on earth are you asking all these questions, and how will it help you fix your aircon? It is a simple system containing needlessly expensive (but cheaply made) components and there is a LOT of mystification and nonsense talked about it. perhaps some form of tranquillizer might help reduce your anxiety levels. :16:

You are correct, the TEV is high pressure input, the evap. is low pressure out, transition occurs within these two components. As MM states, once the engine is off the system reaches equilibrium at static fill pressure.

Personally, I would keep the car and run it further into the ground since it is worth next to nothing. It is for the owner to decide whether to write it off or not, it is likely that most of the problems experienced by Galaxy owners have already been ironed out or components replaced so the only worries remaining would be engine and transmission. I agree that fitting a new turbo is the first course of action, and the engine could be replaced later. Your truck engine is a different animal, my van has the same (non-turbo) engine as the OP and at 175,000 miles it's definitely becoming tired, as is the gearbox. Should get to 250k tho'. Auction it or fix it, but the rattling and clanking noises would definitely worry me!

Everything after the compressor is high pressure, every after the evaporator but before the compressor is low. The load should largely constant if the system is in use, but engine speed does make a difference, ambient temperature does not.

Okay MM, but this is a old tech diesel, NOT a PD lump and is widely available for sensible money from many reputable sources, I would say that

You could simply get the ECU reprogrammed (chipped), the fault will lie within the software, although this may not actually be the problem. More likely to be an intermittant failure of some component on the induction side, EGR, MAF, Lamda etc. the light throttle openings under motorway driving conditions suggest overleaning while the knock sensor is continually correcting it. It could be that your mean throttle openings on the M6 were higher due to gradient/traffic, therefore no problem.

I really think that replacing the turbo only is a total waste of time and money, if you're gonna have a spend-up then fit a complete reconditioned engine AND a new turbo, I would not trust the head casting after such a high mileage, and the tired engine is bound to have suffered from oil starvation during the drive back to Bristol. Turbo Technics is the company I would use in your situation. Very good warranty, and their turbo's are remanufactured using brand new Garret parts.

Hmmm, I understand your scepticism Oggy, but in fact the garage may feel that a new Receiver/Dryer is required, hence the reference to damp. This failure is not uncommon and in fact GSF sell the part quite cheaply. Bear in mind that 'Mechanics' these days are in reality just fitters who change boxes until the fault goes away. Main dealers are no different.

No experience with those brands but I bought four Nankang EX-601's from mytyres for

Well, I bought Bosch in the end because a complete remanufactured Bosch genuine exchange unit for my VR6 was

You're really not going to like this ezra, but on a long run your turbo may actually get hot enough to glow in the dark! :10: What does your coolant temperature guage tell you... Normal? Given that your oil is 'cooled' by the coolant, you could reasonably expect the oil to be about the same temperature as the coolant.... and it is! Unless you're getting the low coolant warning light...