sepulchrave

...but the torque figures for TDi's are all the same... :lol:

You are right MrT, the MAF on VR6's makes little difference to performance, it does however improve MPG slightly. Why would you be surprised that reducing the torque loading on an engine at a given speed would allow the ECU to lean the mixture.

...they are. :lol:

It's plastic, I wouldn't if I were you! A strap wrench might be better, but I've always managed to get mine off with the allen key, it just turns very slow because of the O ring.

You're welcome. :lol:

The Cat should get very hot, dunno about glowing since the full length heatshield prevents me from seeing, do you have the heatshield in place? Don't trust diesel owners on this one, their turbo absorbs most of their exhaust heat and consequently their Cat runs cooler and works differently (different gases see). Misfire WILL be HT related, last time I disturbed the coilpack while replacing the thermostat housing It took ages to get rid of the misfire, the leads are VERY sensitive (especially when old and basically knackered). Pull all the plugs and check for the sooty one, there's your dodgy lead. Did you use the coilpack and leads off your old engine?

...I thought we'd already sorted out the 'Grenade' autobox issue! :lol: Pay attention in class Matt, design a new expert system - yours isn't working. :D

Oxygen sensor (lamda probe) is probably sooted up, and the ECU thinks the car is stuck on choke because of the unburnt fuel in the exhaust. May I humbly suggest (finally, and for the last time) that the HT circuit is at fault somewhere, then I will go away and NEVER darken your doorstep again with suggestions that you just don't wanna hear! :blink:

Whaddya wanna talk to the engine for, it's just a dumb Ford lump! :D

Your naivete is touching MrT, you are describing NEW goods. I'm afraid Dave-G is right and bigal is on his own here.

I might be barking up the wrong tree, but, did Mr Bodge forget to tighten a clip on one of the turbo pipes, that would produce a nice whistling noise. Check your pipework on the high pressure side of the turbo.

Never changed the water pump, and you don't need to either! It's the thermostat housing if it's N/S front. :lol: ...Oh, and no it will never end BTW.

TBH I wouldn't know where to start... :lol: All I can say is that every time you have a problem (and 'oh boy' will you ever!) come on here and find out how to fix it cheaply and properly. Unless you have a manufacturers warranty to maintain then STAY AWAY FROM DEALERS! I cannot stress this enough. Ask anyone here.

blimey: "mpg approx 17-23 round town may be associated with one of above...." Pretty good for a VR6 Auto, I wouldn't complain too much if I were you! There's a firm on ebay called alpha-bid who sell serial leads for about

You need the right version of VAG-COM, 4091. Here is the file if anyone needs it:

They're usually outputs from the preamp so that you can attach a separate power amp.

...It's not a V6 because opposing conrods do not share a common big end journal... :lol: Whaddya mean "i can't get my software/hardware to be recognised"?

...Actually it was built by VW/Seat in Portugal using almost no Ford parts at all. Anyway, the only blindingly obvious part NOT on your list is the crankshaft, could this be out of true where the flywheel mates to it, it certainly wouldn't need to be out by much and I would guess it would be totally undetectable by Ford trained grease monkeys... Stranger things have happened to new cars!

Well there's sparking and there's SPARKING, a twinkle at the electrode doesn't cut it for the VR6! I believe that the cylinders are fired in pairs just like a four. Is it all just a coincidence? I think not. One rail of six injectors BTW, because it isn't a true V6, it's actually a dual plane straight six.

I think that the flywheel is about it, but other (older) engines I have come across have had different cranks, cams, carbs, ignition etc. on the auto version but I'd be surprised if that were the case any more. If the torque converter fits onto the end of the crank then I think you're in business!

...If there were no fuel getting trough then the plugs would be clean and not sooty! Tigger...IT'S NOT A DIESEL ENGINE! It's the normally very dependable (the most reliable shalaxy engine anyway) petrol V6. This is electrical though and I'm convinced that it's the coilpack. How could the valves possibly have been affected?

...I meant have you run a diagnostic to read the fault memory. I really can't see that anything that got wet has been permanently damaged, you may have connected the new HT leads incorrectly, they are quite difficult to push onto the coil pack due to the angle and cramped access. Also please confirm that you used the correct special tool to hold the plug caps on the HT leads.

You do have the correct tool to 'pull' the leads? Have you 'read it's head' yet? Have you checked the new plugs, misfiring cylinders will be sooty...

Sorry dipso but the answers to your questions are: No, no, no and possibly, but even running on five it should pull ok-ish. Are you sure the coil pack is ok? Spray it with a water dispersant.

If you're really worried about it fit a new expansion tank, otherwise whip the instruments out and remove the offending bulb, reassemble and hey presto no more sleepless nights! ;)