sepulchrave

You could treat it to fresh oil and filter and check the belts. Charge the battery and check antifreeze concentration should about do it for winter. ;)

I think the likelihood of warped discs would increase dramatically! Don't be such a lazy tart, get the Autoglym wheel care kit and never look back. ;)

This problem can be caused by a weak battery, are you confident that yours is fully charged (lots of stop/start short journeys drain the battery)?

See your other post emjay. ;)

emjay, you should really have started a new thread for your problem since your vehicle is totally different. I'm guessing that since you mention a new coil pack (singular) then your car is a 12v VR6 (it would help to say so!) in which case HT leads are the most likely culprit. I changed my MAF (mine was totally U/S) and the only difference it made was to improve fuel consumption slightly, however if you're in any doubt then just unplug it, drive it and report back.

...bliss ninnys... :)

...fairy nuff, there's always room for humour here. :lol: But should this thread actually be here?

"Hello, I see the point you're making but why does it matter so much to you where the thread is?" Because those of us who have laboured to accumulate technical knowledge and are prepared to share it with complete strangers without any thanks or reward (altruism), get thouroughly p****d off (fed up) with those who spent more than ten years in state education and learnt absolutely b****r all (nothing)! How can you expect an answer to a question if you can't even be bothered to communicate the problem using your native tongue? There is a worldwide convention on the internet called netiquette, many millions of people over the years have evolved this system and we all use it. Overcapitalisation is a no-no, IT'S SHOUTING. Leetspeak (1f u n0 w07 1 |\/|34n) is for pubescent would-be hackers/gamers and has no place here (I'll thrash any of you at CoD anyday, BTW :lol: ). If someone can be bothered to ask a relevant and intelligible question then anyone on this forum who has a clue will understand and bend over backwards to help, if they can't be a****d (bothered) then neither should we! :lol:

Nah, he won the Kentucky Derby...Spiderman was his jockey. (Mod is this thread really in the right place? :lol: )

...I've got a battery as well, got some tyres 'n' all, does anyone have any opinions as to what car I should get to go with them? :lol:

...It's advice, not 'advise'. :o

I bought a cheap lead and it's brill. :D (I'm a gooner too, born round the corner from where it all started in 1886!)

Yes.

Hello, you may be able to fit a high pressure airline to the glow plug port and pressurise the cylinder enough to remove the valve springs. We used to feed string in throught the plug hole at BDC and then crank it up to keep the valves shut whilst changing the stem seals, but frankly it took ages to do and it needed two people. You should be able to get an adaptor for the airline.

Hmmm, please quantify 'juddery', how do you feel the symptom, if you're rolling along at 30 mph in neutral with the engine ticking over can you still feel it? Sounds like maybe a CV joint, V6's eat them and yours are probably history after 120k.

They bothered for emissions and fuel economy, on the TDi engine the MAF makes a huge difference 'cos it's turbocharged. You get about 100K out of non-turbo MAF's before they die, and about 50K as mo4 stated on TDi's. Lamda probe probably not and Cat makes no difference to performance either. My guess would be HT, coilpack maybe? If the dealer ran a diagnostic as part of the service and everything was peachy then it's HT for sure since that will not usually show up, I think the spark may be breaking down under lean conditions. Modern lean burn engines require really fat sparks to fire properly. Compression will be fine unless you've done the Weston beach race with no air filter! ;)

Errr, this car is a PETROL Gal, MAF's really don't make that kind of difference! Look elsewhere for the likely fault. ;)

I thought that low gas pressure was indicated by a flashing display, is that not the case on Mark II's?

Have you tried www.lastword.com/delurk? :wacko:

The gentleman asked how to leave the system dead, I told him. He isn't asking for trouble! There is nothing wrong with isolating the faulty system and repairing it when funds allow. Yes it dehumidifies the air in automatic recirculation mode for demisting, BUT during the winter the air being used will be warm anyway and will work just fine in econ mode. However did we cope before aircon? :ph34r:

Unfortunately garages no longer employ proper mechanics, they only have fitters. I would be VERY surprised if your garage are prepared to remove the gearbox, strip it, replace the diff, reassemble and refit. As I implied there is an element of uncertainty which is negated by replacing the entire gearbox with a guaranteed service exchange unit. You are correct; you have no warranty unless you recently bought the car from a dealer. However a gearbox today is remarkably similar to a gearbox of 30 years ago! Make the simple checks I have suggested and visually inspect the diff housing for any oil leakage; when the bearings fail the oil seals generally follow causing some visible loss of gearbox oil (caught in the undertray).

You won't be making that decision, since you aren't doing the work! Like I said: "Most garages prefer to fit a recon box since there's no actual repair work involved for them and the part is guaranteed." This obviously includes the differential. Ok?

Well wheel bearings are another possibility, jack the car up and grip the roadwheel firmly top and bottom and try to rock it. You can then cross the CV joints off a very short list by simply grabbing each driveshaft and trying to shake it, if you can then the joint has had it! Otherwise it's in the gearbox.

Nope, I only count one question! :ph34r:

Jeezus! Talk about everyone mising the point! Neal, you can simply pull the wiring (or cut it) to the clutch and allow it to freewheel. Your compressor has obviously seized and you can replace it in the spring.