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You might be onto something with the drop link thing, mine only started creaking about a week after fitting a new pair. Next time it starts creaking I will give it a good dose of WD40 on the joints and see if it makes a difference.

It was mine that was still creaking after changing the top mounts(and shocks). It still creaks occasionally and when it does it drives me mad, but the car was in for MOT last week and typically when I took it down for the test it didn't creak at all. The garage hadn't done anything, were aware of the problem but couldn't find anything wrong, it just happened to go in on a no creaking day. Passed with flying colours by the way.

Would removing the handles when in the full closed position and refitting them so that they are pointing downwards help?(or even just past the fully vertical position so that gravity on the handle would be working in the direction to close the window not open it). Im presuming they are on a splined shaft. Or is it the weight of the huge window thats the problem?

Emisions related Follow this link, they had an emisions related problem on a 2.0 petrol.

Have a look into "Sick Car Syndrome". This refers to a bacterial or fungal build up on the condensor of an air conditioning system that not only makes the car smell but can make you sick too! Do a google on it.

I bought the ones on ebay and the wires were different on those too. Fords quoted me less than a tenner but would have to order them in and then i'd have to drive across town to collect them. Ebay may not always be the cheapest, but how many Ford dealers do home delivery? A simple solution is to seperate the 2 parts of the switch (the button from the housing) and use the wiring/contacts that were on the old switch. Thats all I did, took about 2 minutes and the 2 parts of the switch seperate and refit easily.

Insurance websites are notoriously dodgy when it comes to the exact model of car. A guy at work has a Mondeo 2.5 ghia x which comes up as a 2.0 ghia.

The sealant/adhesive used to bond screens is a polyurethane adhesive, not silicone! Sold by various manufacturers its commonly called (you guessed it) Screen Bond. You really should use the correct adhesive as a bonded screen actually contributes to the strength and rigidity of the car. Less so on a rear window than a front screen but you should still use the correct stuff. Its also more viscous than silicone so it is easier to maintain the correct position of the screen whilst waiting for it to cure.

I paid a lot less for my petrol than I would have paid for a similar diesel. I know im talking the lower end of the spectrum here but ours is a second car, one to take me to work 90% of the time whilst still being able to carry 6/7 plus luggage (or fishing gear!) the other 10%, at the same time letting wifey & kids run about in my new(ish) mondeo. The thing I considered when buying my old bus was just how many miles I would be doing, and wether the increased cost of running a petrol would balance out the increased cost of purchasing a diesel. Speaking hypothetically here If Petrol & diesel cost

Yup, just a Mk1 thing, they must've put the old thinking caps on when they designed the Mk11

And the point of my post is???? The subject of this thread is "What things irritate you about your galaxy" The "unusual" procedure for setting my intermittent wipe irritates me. I simply wish that the car had a simple switch with settings one to whatever for the frequency of the wipe, just like every other car ive owned, instead of the up once, then off, and then up again however many seconds later piece of nonsense it has been designed with. Look at it this way, if I wish my wipers to intermittently wipe on my mondeo I simply flick the switch and turn it to what ever speed I require. The whole procedure takes about a second and I can adjust the frequency instantly if I so wish. In the Galaxy I flick the switch, it wipes once, then I flick it off, then I wait say 20 seconds, then I flick it on again. So whats that 25 seconds just to set the intermittent wipe, and then if I want to adjust the frequency I go through the whole procedure again from scratch! HARDLY PRACTICAL IS IT? Edit by Masked Marauder: No need for the insulting bit chap.

I thought I might have been able to help but the only 12 point splined bit I have has a 6.9 mm dia, sorry.

Steve, how many points on the spline?

Yep, Mot's due next month so I would have been doing it anyhow.

Ok, Shocks and mounts fitted creaking still as bad as ever! No play in wheel bearings, no usual dodgy wheel bearing drone when driving and it doesnt seem to eminate from the hub. Solution? Going to the pub tonight to forget about the @*%4$#

Hi Steve, if the bolt has six splines it is called a torx fitting see this link for guide sizes. Wiha tools torx guide

Up in rainy Cumbria we like our wipers just right, none of this "Just turn it on and forget it" rubbish up here! There either too fast or too slow, I find myself adjusting the interval every time I use them. Bet your like my wife who can keep the wipers on full blast for an hour after its stopped raining

I dont know about anybody else, but the intermittent front wipe drives me up the wall, all this switch on to wipe once then switch of then switch on again after required interval to set. What a load of (insert expletive here) Why cant we just have a good old multi position switch?

Was the sharan not replaced by the touran?

Front shocks

Thanks All, Yes a 14mm spark plug socket fits, I will have another go before the weekend. And keep you posted on the results. In the meantime I shall keep up the daily WD40 dose, Ive a feeling I will need all the help I can get with this one!

The gaiters are available from all motor factors and come complete with clips and grease. Ive done a few of these but not on galaxys. However most of the time the procedure for replacement is exactly the same. Loosen the large nut on the end of the drive shaft in the centre of the hub with the wheel on the car before you jack it up. Get the car jacked up and suitably supported with the relevant wheel off. Remove the nut now, and unbolt the hub from either the strut base, the lower arm mounting and the steering track rod end or whichever combination of the above is required to allow you to tilt the hub enough to withdraw the drive shaft from the centre of the hub. Taking care to support the brake caliper so as not to stretch or unduly bend the brake line. At the gearbox side of the shaft on smaller vehicles (cars etc) the shaft is normally just a push fit into the differential. If you withdraw the shaft from the gearbox (which requires a solid tap due to an internal spring clip on the end of the splined drive shaft inside the gearbox) you will end up with gear oil all over the drive. You have 2 choice here, if possible split the CV joint on the car by looking for any circlips holding the shaft together and removing as required OR withdraw the shaft from the gear box thereby draining the oil which you will replace later. I always take this opportunity to replace the gearbox oil as it only cost a fiver and is usually never changed during the life of an average car. And its much easier to split the shaft off the vehicle. With the shaft off the car replace the gaiter, grease and clips. Some shafts cant be split in which case you will need a cone to stretch and fit the new gaiter, just ask at the motor factors for advice. Refitting is a "simple" reversal of the above

Ive had the car jacked up today, and am certain that the N/S top strut mount is responsible (thanks radioman). Theres plenty of lateral movement in the N/S that isnt there on the O/S strut mount. However as expected the top nuts are rusted solid. What a stupid design, putting the nut inside a "cup" that is going to fill with water. A plastic cap on top and a liberal dose of grease would have prevented this. Ive got both sides drowning in WD40 at the moment, but has anyone got any suggestions for removal of this nut? Is there a special tool available that will allow me to turn the nut whilst still having access to the allen key on top of the rod? My 22mm ring spanner has too large an outside diameter.

Quite a few people on here seem to be using the Cobra 1046 (not me though) It seem a popular choice and is reasonably priced (do a google), perhaps someone can tell you if it has an audible or visual warning.