charles

you do not need to unplug. you also can disconnect the battery. this has the same effect.

suddenly the engine stumbles when accelerating. and not as smooth when idling. But at speed it seems normal. I had similar experience 1 year ago. Broken wiring to the coils where then the problem. I replaced the whole wiring loom, and problem was solved. But now again thus. Suspect (one of ) the coils or the oxygen sensor. what would be more likely?

have the same problem, but i has nothing to do with the a/c I replaced the sensor and wiring with no effect. Very few times the gauge comes up, but mostly not. I suspect the instrument panel. Bad contacts could be the cause. A new instrument panel is very expensive so I leave it as it is. There is also a red light in the temperature gauge. it lights shortly when the engine is started (check light)). It warns if the engine becomes overheated.

probably the second radiator fan is in unbalance too. I had the same. When the fan bearing wears the fan becomes unbalanced with heavy vibrations. check it with bonnet open and putting the aircon on (be carefull!)

Don't worry, my aircon is from 1997 original, never refilled ,and still working fine. So not all aircons will break. :angry:

has anyone replaced his rear wheel bearing? The mine needs replacing. there is coming a whining noise from the rear.

see also topic about cracked isolation of LT leads to coil packs. because it is taped you cannot see it directly. remove tape and check isolation carefully. Because of the heat of the engine the isolation becomes hard and cracks due to vibration. It is a commen problem of the 2.3 engine. my ford garage could not detect it with there diagnostics equipment, I found it by myselves. I my case I replaced the full wire loom.

also check your EGR valve. Pull off the tube on top of this valve, and put a spare tube on it. When you blow and suck on it you must hear it close/open When it is stuck open (coal condamation) than it will run very roughly at low revs. You can remove the valve (see Haynes manual) and clean it if necessairy. Further the MAF could be suspect, disconnect it and try if it is running better without the cable connected. success

did the gear box change for the manual 2.3 gearbox last month. Hereby the report. Followed the Haynes manual instructions: There is no washer at the drain plug and no at the filling plug. Just to be sure I fitted a copper washer at the drain plug. 2 Liters of gear oil came out, did not find very much metal wear in it. I re-filled it with 2 liters of new oil via a funnel/transparant PVC tube from above the engine bay, the other side of the tube sticking into the filling hole. I bought 2 bottles at the ford dealer, it is red coloured oil (eur 17/liter). The gear change did improve, it is gearing as butter. :lol:

on checking under the bonnet I found that one of the fan motors makes the noise, have to replace it.

probably just adjusting the cables to the gearbox, not a easy job, see also the TIS manual.

since a few days a terrible sound can be heard when puttint the A/C on. I think it's one of the fans. Have anyone had similar problems? Does the fan hit the casting or is it the bearing? mus the unit replaced totally or can you buy spare parts for it (fe only the bearing)

it seems to me not so convenient place for changing the discs when driving full loaded with lugage. corskey, can your rear passenger change the disks under your chair ?

when you disconnect the MAF, you should experience the following effect: loss of power - less smooth drive. But if the MAF is defective than you will experience: - engine running better :in that case the defective MAF is sending faulty signals - make no difference: the MAF thin sensor wires have been broken - no signal see also other topics about this subject.

check your earth connection.

check your wirings to the coils (they crack!) / or the coils itselves could be faulty

the mine does it too. when driving and de-clutching it drops back to 1500rpm. Only when the car fully stops the rev drops to back to tickover.

thanks for your info, my next tyres will be reinfored!

CO reading seems to me extreme high for this engine. check you EMU fault codes with the Ford equipment

If disconnected the engine runs a 'safe'mode program. It brings you home, but not meant to drive very long under max load.

The maximum load and tire pressure is specificated on the tyres and should be enough for the galaxy. Normally it would no problem to fit ordinary tyres. However I noticed when pushing to the car, there there may be some more sideway movement (noticable with cornering).

Are you sure you didn't overfill the expension tank. Normally it's half full (between min and max markings)

when the engine is on temperature and you turn on the heating, it must become hot inside very quickly, if not it is probably the waterpump.

This weekend I will change the gear oil. I bought 2 l Ford spec gear oil and a 8 mm PVC tube to fill the gearbox from above. Seems to me a good thing to do, the car is 8 years old and when checking the level, I found what metal pieces around the plug, probably from wear. Does the gearbox drain plug a new washer?