charles

I have had the MAF replaced 3 times now. The last time it last for only 1,5 years. Poor quality sensor

I have the same problem for ages. I have read that the problem is a bad contact in the print circuit of the instrument panel

C it the LT lead to the coil. Due to the heat of the cylinder head the PVC isolation cracks after a year of 7-8. I had the total wiring cable replaced.

o yeh, forgotten, clean your idle air valve

I have had similar problems, see older threads you should check or just replace the following items MAF sensor, lamda sensor, carefully check wiring (broken isolation) and connections exaust gas recirculation valve (stuck)

coughing up oil?? it only passes excaust gases .

the trouble is that that the ford engine is a very complex system with many sensors and controllers (more than 40) each of them can fail. certainly some of them will fail after some years or will gradually fail, causing strange driving behaviour. You can exchange all sensors but it will cost you a fortune. A ECU diagnosis could point out the defect part, then you are lucky. My experience is that some faults can not be diagnosed, f.e. a shorted cable. in that case you have to work systematicly, replace/clean suspect parts and see if it has effect to the driving behaviour, starting with the Air control Valve. see the forum topic

I seriously doubt the ECU has gone. It's working or not. my guess: wireloom to the sensors / vacuum leak

there could be many causes: -coil -leads -wiring loom to coils -EGR valve stuck -duff lambda sensor - MAF search on 'hestistating' in the forum

just cleaned mine ACV last week. Had also randomly tickover problems. Accidently the car completly stalled at a traffic light. I cleaned it with carb cleaner . the valve must move freely. I put some drops engine oil on it to lubricate it. Now it's fixed

had 2 mafs replaced in 4 years time. when ok the car runs much smoother. When kicking down the pedal it's feeling it acts with some delay, but with more power. When defect it reacts more directly and noisier .

check your the tube from crankcase ventilation to the airintake. this may be clogged with mayo.

I guess the air control valve, try cleaning it first. also a duff lamda sensor or bad contacts of the connector can make the mixture too lean, could also resulting in high revs.

I guess the air control valve, try cleaning it first. also a duff lamda sensor or bad contacts of the connector can make the mixture too lean, also resulting in high revs.

too soft. the tyres have a much higher tyre pressure than other cars. I should be checked regulary, they tend to loose pressure easy

that's correct the thick hose at the thicker pipe of the senser and the thinner hose to the thinner pipe Tube can be clogged . Run engine with hoses off sensor and see exhaust gases come from both hoses. (block manifold hose with finger and see gases are coming from the other hose). than it's ok

one pipe is a bit thicker than the other one, you should see it.

For a 2 months the engine accidently misfired (running on 3 cylinders for some seconds) , but not consequently. The other time it was running smooth. At moist it seemed to be more sever, so I suspected the electrical system. I brought it to the FORD dealer for a diagnoses; they replaced the MAF, all other readings were OK, but my problem was not solved. I checked all wiring for many times, but could not find cracked or corroded contacts. I was at the point of selling the car, but who would buy a trouble car? I still suspected the lamdba (oxigen) sensor, however the Ford Dealer said this sensor was OK. So I disconnected the connector and than found the error. The 4 pin connector was corroded. A bit of contactspray did the trick.

I was not so lucky disk vibration, alignment problems, MAF, ignition coil and lead, wire loom , water temp gauge, rear wheel bearings, aux belt tensioner roller, several diagnostic tests, accident switch, radiator fans. luckely the aircon is still ok. I had more repairs than every other car I had before (150000km). :)

the part number depends from the model. You can find the partnumber on the sticker on the wire that is going to the the left ignition coil. Please also check the HT leads carefully. (listen if you can hear a spark leaking to the cylinder head) A defect lead can also cause the same behavioir.

Hi At the end I ordered a complete new wire loom. It costed EUR 144 (GBP 101), and replacing it took about 2 hours. The connectors behind the engine are difficult to access. You can find a full description of the replacement on the internet. Just look for the Ford Scorpio site. It has the same engine!. After replacing the engine was running OK. Succes

Could you be more specific about the symptoms? I'have had several engine running problems with different causes.

had same fuel smell, which came up when starting at freezing conditions, but disappearing wenn driving a while. Pretty sure that blocking water in the coal canister was the cause. When warm water damps away.

although i can rotate the rear wheels without clearance or noise, the bearings are making noise at speed (they have done ca 120Kmiles) are they easy replaced or do I need special equipment to pull them out so can better leave it to the dealer?

my first guess was right. The coil was damaged. Replacement part was EUR 82.