Steveenduro

Do you think its worth pulling the gaiters right back and getting some grease into the ball joint and then replacing the gaiter with jubilee clips? Maybe, but for all the hassle you may be better off buying an original part and replacing the link.

I gave in and bought one from Fords at

I found that tyre pressures made the biggest difference with mine. I got 50mpg coming back from Wales on the weekend, with 5 POB + luggage. (+ aircon - Yes it works again!). Mind you, I did have the good old prevailing westerly to help me along! I tend to use the top book values for tyre pressures (around 45psi I think).

Does Gunsons Eezibleed come with a cap that fits the resovoir on the galaxy? Cheers.

Now that is strange. Mine also did not creak until shortly after changing the drop links. I wonder if it has anything to do with the quality of aftermarket links?

Mine is the same. I gather from searching the forum that the most likely cause is a worn bush at the top of the front strut, and that they are a sod to change due to the damper nuts corroding. I also saw a post where the bushes were changed and the creaking remained. I'm still trying to locate the exact point that the noise is coming from before I try and get the damper nuts off.

Did anyone find these sensors at a reasonable price? One of my rear ones has gone.

The premium plus was the only "quality" coolant that Ford stocked when I changed mine. I would flush your system to be on the safe side, but it seems that you have the right stuff. I would be interested to see if you fill up with the right amount. Mine was a few litres short - I must have got water/coolant trapped. Despite taking off the hose for the aux heater.

Yes, that's the good stuff. I looked into this when I changed mine. It's the "Superplus premium".

Thanks Mumof4, yes I was ok, the adrenalin numbs the pain. The thought of turning the key for the 1st time certainly gives you a buzz. I guess most non DIYers think we are mad putting so much time and effort in to save a few pounds. But as we all secretly know, it is the challenge and not just the cash. We are a stubborn bunch who cannot stand the thought of being beaten by a lump of metal. The thing that worried me most was the thought of calling a mechanic to put the whole lot back together again.

Actually got around to changing the cambelt on Saturday. (2000 1.9 TDi PD). I would class myself as an averagely competent DIYer, and it took me all day, and very nearly cost me my sanity! Would I do it again? Probably. The day started badly. Driving the car up onto ramps on a gravel driveway. Yes, I know, don't laugh. The rh front wheel spun, and threw the ramp under the sill. So I have a couple of creases in the sill that I can't blame on the garage. I followed the TIS procedure. Everyting was straightforward enough, just bloody hard work. The main issue was access. Those fiddly hose clamps, and the engine mounting bolts in particular. Just not much space. I bought lazer locking tools

I spoke to local VW garage. Quote "We would only replace tensioner damper if it is seized". "Tensioner pulley wheel is normally replaced". They didn't really know about the idler wheel. I may just change the whole lot (incl damper) for piece of mind. Mind you, it is

Thanks Tim Just spoke to my local Ford service dept. According to them, the "tensioner" is to be replaced every OTHER cambelt change on the Tdi PD motor. And they weren't sure whether that meant only the tensioner pulley wheel, or the tensioner damper as well. We all know that the "tensioner" should be replaced every cambelt change. So, with the information so far, I definately need to change the belt, tensioner pulley wheel, and idler roller. It seems as though the tensioner damper is re-used. On inspection, I'll check operation and look for oil leaks. If ok, I'll leave it. I can't believe there is so much mis-information about a standard service operation. If you take the car to a garage, I guess you take pot luck!

Hi all. I'm still confused about the cam belt tensioner. The TIS and VW documentation refer to both the Pulley whell (the bit with the eccentric tension adjuster) and the Tensioner damper (The bit that supplies the tension to the pulley wheel) as the "Tensioner". My question is, should the "Tensioner damper" also be replaced with the belt, pulley and idler. I wonder if Ford themselves actually know! Any help appreciated as I hope to do the job this weekend.

I've bought the cam belt kit from GSF which includes the belt, tensioner pulley wheel and idler roller. The ford TIS service bulletin states that the Tensioner is to be replaced. Does this mean that the actual tensioner/damper assembly also need to be replaced. 1.9 TDi PD

The Ford TIS actually suggests that a trolley jack and wood is used. Are all the fastener torque values based on oiled threads/mating faces? I read somewhere that figures given in handbooks and manuals are generally dry figures, with the exception of cylinder head bolts. Seems that this would be quite an important issue given the difference in tensile forces oiled vs dry. BTW, any idea on the torque setting for the idler bolt. No mention in the TIS. Cheers.

Yep me too. Two bolts loose on passenger side. Noise gone when re-tightened.

New exhaust system now fitted. Centre section was a genuine new ford part off ebay (

Cheers MM, I've got the info from Sealey. I'm not buying their kit though. I've ordered the crank locking tool, tensioner holding plate and tensioner wrench from another supplier for less than

Has anyone bought the full cam belt kit and/or auxilliary (ribbed) belt for a 1.9TDi PD (yr 2000) from GSF? Their website is a tad confusing when it comes to part numbers. If so, the GSF number would be appreciated. Cheers.

Hi all. I'm about to change the cambelt on my 1.9TDi. I have studied the TIS, and the info that comes with the Sealey VS1245 locking kit. I have a few minor questions; hopefully someone that has done this before can answer them. 1. Are ther any other special tools apart from the Sealey locking kit that I need? For example, the cambelt holding tool isn't mentioned on Sealeys instructions. I guess the pin/drill bit is enough to stop camshaft turning? Also, would socket allen keys be handy to torque up bolts on crankshaft pulley. Would ratchet spanners be handy, and if so, what size? 2. What is the reason for the 2 stage tightening of camshaft pulley bolts? 1st stage 20nm, 2nd 45

Hi. Does anyone know if an exhaust system from a 1995-2000 1.9 TDi will fit a 2000 1.9T Di 115. (New shape). I seem to be able to get hold of the former easily, but have seen no mention of the latter. Many Thanks.

Some you win, some you loose! The air con on my 2000 TDi 115 packed up about 4 years ago. Ford started talking figures of

Thanks MM. I have looked at it during the last cold spell (1-2