Steveenduro

Just used Vag Com to check Aux heater which is U/S, and got a "Glow plug open circuit Q9" fault. Is this a definate glowplug change job. (1st time I've used Vag com)? If so, are the part no.s for the OEM part correct for a 2000 mk2 galaxy PDI115? Thanks

I had problems finding a reasonably priced pump for my MkII. Best was just over

That's the fuel filter alright, but I'm pretty sure it should bave a drain screw for water underneath. Have you got the right part?

I went down the ebay route and bought a cheap lead made by Autosonics. I've tried loading their driver for it, and I've tried the Ross-Tech drivers for third party dumb interfaces. Not a sausage! Apparently the Ross Tech 409.1 software assigns a Com port to it, even though it is USB. In my case Com Port 3. The USB driver shows up on Com port 3, but there is no talking to the Vag Com program. Has anyone been through this scenario who could offer some help, or should I give up and buy a Ross-Tech cable (are they available in the UK). Thanks

No need to remove any pipes. The plastic T piece that the pipes are attached to comes away from the filter after removing a spring clip. It is not under pressure. I would fill the new one with fresh diesel to save having to prime once re-fitted.

If you've got a Wilco near you, they supply Millers XFE PD 505.01 for

Mine stopped running a couple of years ago after I changed the coolant. I'm sure it must be linked. Also, the car is nearly 7 years old and over 100k, (although heater stopped at about 75k). I'm not sure in what order to diagnose. I've got the basic vag com lead, but haven't looked into software yet - will this point me in the right direction, or should I bite the bullet and start looking at changing glowplugs and looking at after-run pumps. I haven't heard that comforting jet engine whine for so long............ Thanks

My aircon also packed up after 2 years (imported car so no 3 yr warranty). I automatically assumed it was dead and didn't even look at it. I used the car for another 3 years, and during a spell of hot weather (yes, we did have them), decided to get the local aircon man to regass etc.

I know, Bit late now though. I checked what my premium would be taking into acount the accident and claim (and my 3 points - oops, another story) and it was

I'll get knocked down from 5 years NCD to 2 years. Assuming I don't play dodgems again for a couple of years I've estimated the total cost of this mishap to come to about

If it was a new car, it would be a no-brainer to go with insurance. But it is 7 years old with over 100k on the clock and I plan to keep it for the forseeable future. However, the damage does look a bit hideous.

It had to happen. 30 years of accident free driving could not go on for ever. And it was all my fault. I pulled into a space between parked cars to let an oncoming car past on a narrow road, and scrapped both doors and the rear wing. They are pushed in a little as well as scraped. His parked Vectra got away with a rear bumper scrape and tail light damage. Mine came off much worse. I have just contacted my insurer and told them to go ahead with the claim, but I am now wondering if I would be better off settling privately. Does anyone know the approx cost of removing dents and repainting doors and rear wing. I have no idea. If I go with insurance my excess is

I originally slagged of the ebay ones because I had the mystery creaking problem which I cured with a squirt of WD40. Strange thing is that the pair have been on there for

Ebay is just another place to buy things. You can get ripped off anywhere if your not a bit savvy. Just make sure that you buy quality branded items from a recommended source. I too bought the Mintex discs/pads from Ebay and would thoroughly recommend them. The only potential problem is with disreputable traders flogging non branded items in brand boxes, thogh you would have thought that someone somewhere would have sussed them out in time, so I think good brands from someone with thousands of sales and +ve feedback is a reasonable bet. If you get an extra recommendation from a forum such as this, then all the better. As for doing it yourself; if you don't try, then you'll never learn. My feeling is that you will do a better job as an amateur spending 3 hours with your head buried in a manual and shaking with fear every time you tighten a nipple, than a dealer with 20mins time and a hangover.

Yes, it was in place. That will teach me not to replace it.

Hi All. Just done a fuel filter change on a mk2 Tdi, and I'm leaking diesel onto the top of the filter cannister. I think it must be from the plastic insert where the O ring/s are. I only found one O ring on dismantling. Are there meant to be two of them? Thanks

Mine did the same a couple of weeks after fitting cheap anti roll bar drop links. For the time being I have sprayed the ends with WD40 and they are silent. I guess they just dry out. I'll buy originals next time. To check, get someone to turn the wheel whilst you touch the link. You'll feel a creak if they are the fault.

My booster heater stopped working last year after a coolant change. All seems fine with the coolant, and so I'm wondering if the booster needs re-setting. (I've heard that it can stop trying to start after 5 attempts. Does anyone know if the cheap vag-com lead can diagnose and re-set the booster (if that is the problem), or at least diagnose it? Thanks

New sensor time then. Simple to fit if you have hands the size of a 4 year old and arms of rubber.

Is your temp gauge stable? If your coolant temp sensor is going U/S then revs can increase occasionally.

I also had problems getting the crank pulley bolts out, though an inpact driver finally shifted them. I think they tend to round due to the high torque value on them. Next time I'll buy a new set before starting. I also found it impossible to torque them back up to the correct value due to the crank turning. Tim-spam, did you have any problems with the tensioner damper extending too far? I found that when the tension was released so that the locking plate could be moved, then the gap was pretty much ok. The TIS procedure suggests lots of clockwise movement to set the gap. This threw me and I ended up with a fully exteded damper which had to be removed, and it was a swine to push the damper piston back. I ended up changing mine, but made the same mistake again! Good to see that there is some experience building on MkII cambelt changes.

Thanks Nik. Useful info. I'll get hold of a Bosch one and give it a go. I must be on borrowed time anyway at 85000 miles and 6+ years.

Is the loss of power associated with the MAF always dramatic? Mine has a definate but subtle loss of power - It is not as lively as it once was on acceleration, and top speed is around 90-95. It seems to have "lost it's edge". I've tried disconnecting the MAF and it runs like a pig, so at the time I assumed the MAF was ok. The car has done 85000 miles, and is over 6 years old. (115 psi TDi). Should I change the MAF or look at other causes?

Could someone remind me how to check operation of the aux heater when the ambient temp is above 10

Almost certainly the engine coolant temp. sensor. Exactly the same happened to mine. You may also occasionally get high revs on start-up when engine is luke warm as the sender will sometimes tell ecu that engine is cold when it's not. Look for threads on changing. Quite easy to do, especially if you have ever worked as a gynacologist.