Steveenduro

Thanks. The tensioner on mine has done 210,000 miles so I guess it was due replacement! I'll put some washers on to centre it up - can only help.

Hi. Last week I the drive (auxilliary) belt snapped on my 2000 Mk 2 1.9 Tdi. The pulleys looked ok on quick inspection so I figured the belt failed due to age. Oddly, it was split down the middle. Today, the new belt also failed in the same way. I spent a bit more time on inspection and found that the steering pump pulley had an outward bulge at the rim. I thought that this must have caused the belt to ride off pulley. I couldn't get hold of the pulley from stock and so have ordered one. In the meantime, I did my best to straighten the old pulley and replaced it with a new belt. I started the car and inspected belt/pulleys. I noticed that the belt was only half on the tensioning roller. The tensioner seemed to have side-side movement on the arm so I replaced the whole unit with a Eurocar part. I now think that the damage on the PAS pulley was a result of the belt being forced of the pulley when the tensioner was misaligned. It all looks a lot better except that the belt is still not central on the tensioner roller. Nothing as bad as it was though. It sort of lines up with edge of roller on left side, and sits on roller with a couple of mm spare on the right. Is this ok? I could put a washer or two under the mounting lugs to centre it. Has anyone else noticed this? Have I now sorted the problem or is another belt due to bite the dust? Many thanks Steve

Yes, it was the fuse. A 5 amp one on the bottom horizontal row - No. 32 I think. Sorted for the time being. Have to wait and see if something is causing it to blow. No idea why the fuse is labelled up incorrectly, unless engine management circuit can affect all these peripheral things? Thanks

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...amp;hl=odometer Just found this link. Exactly the same problem as mine, so I'll check fuses. They seem impossible to remove - can they be checked in place. I seem to remember there being a fuse puller somewhere?

Easter Saturday I made the classic mistake of putting a tank full of petrol into my MkII TDi. I only started it to move it away from the pumps. I phoned my insurance company (I had free breakdown cover) and was informed that I was not covered for mis-fuelling. I would advise anyone to think carefully about canceling their AA/RAC when they get "free cover". I'm also going to contact Shell - they had a V Power diesel sticker on the actual pump handle. Anyway, it stayed on the forecourt until the following Tue, when I gave the keys to the garage across the road. I picked the car up a few hours later. They reckoned they removed the diesel with a "machine", so I can only think it was pumped out? After driving the car away I noticed the interior clock was not working, then on inspection that: the driver door central locking didn't work, the odometer goes back to zero when ignition is turned off, the fuel, temp and tacho guages stay in the active positions when ignition is off, and return to zero when ignition turned on. I don't think they removed the battery as the radio didn't need a code. I don't think the fuel and electrical problems are related, but it does seem co-incidental? Any ideas?

Thanks for that. The car is a 2000 1.9TDi and I

For some time now my booster heater has had a mind of it's own. It comes on intermittently even after coolant temp reaches 90. A couple of weeks ago it started making screeching and grinding noises (like a dry bearing) even when sitting with the engine off after a run. Now over the last couple of days it has started belching out white smoke. I replaced the glowplug and run-on pump a couple of years ago. I'm thinking it must be totally shot and that removing fuse 12 (is this correct?) will be the best course of action. Unless someone has any thoughts? Many thanks

I got 50k from the original Dunlops and I have had the current Fortunas on for 40k and still going strong. The car has done 142,000 miles and hasn't had a problem with top mount. I suspect the alignment was cocked up badly.

If you've got to go through all the hassle of changing the waterpump, I would put in a new belt and pulley kit anyway if the old one is much more than 1/2 way through it's change interval.

The 4mm bit should slide in the gap between the body of the hydraulic damper and the steel lug of the rotational tensioner. Take a mirror and have a look around the back to clear it up. When the gap is acheived, nip up the tensioner nut. Tighten the camshaft pulley bolts, remove locking tools and turn crank twice in CW direction until everything lines up again. Then re-check the gap for 4mm. If it is out, insert tools, loosen tensioner bolt and re-adjust gap. Go around this loop until correct.

Just one other thing........... Anyone know the size of the torx bit needed to undo the engine mount. I left it in place last time, but suspect it would be easier to remove to do water pump. Thanks

I figure that at 140,000 miles, and at 60,000 miles since the last cam belt change, I should change cam belt and water pump this weekend. I've done the belt before, but not the water pump. Do I need to drain the cooling system before pulling the water pump out, or will I just loose a bit of water? I want to avoid draining really, as last time I couldn't get all the coolant out, even with the Aux heater hoses disconnected. Thanks.

Thanks Mike. I'll take a look at that. Steve

Noticed a puddle of water sloshing around inside my rear light unit (passenger side) and wet carpet below it. Any ideas where the water may be getting in? Many thanks

My morning journey is 30 motorway miles, and it seems to warm up in 5-7 mins, but the heater is still running 30min later. A few years ago when I replaced the coolant temp sender, the retaining clip broke off, but if it were loose I think I would see problems with temp gauge - so probably red herring.

Since replacing glow plug and run-on pump, my booster heater has been working fine, but fails to turn off when the engine temp reached normal limits. I've tried a search to see if anyone else has this problem, but can't find anything. The coolant temp. sender was replaced years ago and seems to work ok. Any ideas? Thanks

Sorry, it's a 2000 mk2, 1.9TDi ghia, (with air con).

Hi. Just thinking how reliable the car has been of late when.. Drove into work this morning, and out of the blue, I hear a whirring/humming noise from the front end. It is not really noticeable on tick over, but increases in pitch with engine revs. I'm thinking maybe a worn component on the auxilliary belt? I would appreciate any input. Thanks

Just wondered if anyone knew the answer to whether or not the uprated (60,000 mile) parts can be fitted to the older MkII. Mine is a 2000. I need to do the work soon. Thanks

I've got the early Mk2 Galaxy TDi (Yr 2000), with the 40,000 mile change interval. I did the last cambelt change myself, and it now needs doing again. Anyone know if you can use uprated parts from the 2003 car with 60,000 change interval? And if so, are they available from factors. Eg GSF? Thanks

Thanks chaps. No I don't have a SDS drill. I think I'll buy one of the cheap cordless jobs, as from what I can gather, they will do the job on 1 or 2 nuts/bolts, but will not last if you use them on a regular basis. I will only use very occasionally to loosen parts that won't shift with conventional brute force - pulleys, flywheels etc.

Hi. Anyone had any success with the cheap cordless impact wrenches. I need to remove a 27mm nut on the clutch basket of my KTM enduro bike. (The galaxy is actually fine - for now). The problem is stopping the clutch turning whilst undoing the nut. I know an air wrench will work, but wondered if the electric ones are any good? Thanks

Silly question I know, but puzzling me. I've got a cheapo Clarke impact wrench, which I used with little success to remove flywheel allen bolts when changing cambelt. The instructions state "turn bit holder to the left hand arrow for loosening Right hand threads". When I set it like this, I notice that downward force on the handle turns the bit holder clockwise. This will tighten threads? Am I missing something? Cheers

Have you made sure the engine is running when you interrogate heater?

Did the glowplug over the weekend (Thanks for the part Martin), started up and within a minute or so got the good old whine from under the car - haven't heard it in years. The only bolt sheared was the one holding the little exhaust to the bracket, not too bad. The others were stubborn though. The problem is steel to alloy corrosion, more that just tightness, so a well placed wack on top of the torx driver with a hammer did the trick. I would strongly recommend using the socket driver type torx keys and not the allen key shape. The long 65mm long screw holding the side housing on was a pig, but finally came out by tapping down on the torx driver while turning the shaft with a spanner. Lots of Copperslip on rebuild. Took a couple of hours, but had the potential to take a lot longer if the bolts started shearing. The heater makes a big difference if the car is started from cold and then driven in traffic, but hardly any at all on most of my journeys to work where the car is driven on a fast A road within a few minutes of start up, and put under load (gradually of course).