sotal

I need to get another chip for a key for the galaxy. I have two working keys etc so can program the third in. But I've been struggling to find the galaxy chip, and have now found a couple of places which may have it but there is a little confusion over the type of chip. Does anyone know what it is?

I have Kumho Ecsta Sports fitted on the front of the galaxy. They've only been on 6 months (3000 miles) and barely show any wear so far. Mine were

I think the confusion on this thread is that your car is a Sharan and the advice has been based on the galaxy. The first response about needing two working keys is applicable to the galaxy not the sharan. The next regarding the Pats chips is again applicable to the galaxy not the sharan. The sharan uses a VW immobiliser, I'm not fully up on what can be done with VCDS with respect to the keys but it may be possible (it might be in the paid version?) A lot of key cutter places which advertise that they do car keys etc have testers which will read the chip, they should be able to confirm if you chip is working correctly. The cheap way out would be to have your working key cloned onto a new chip then replace the chip in the duff key with the clone.

I agree that must be a leak and you must have a fair amount of water in there. I had the classic rear windscreen washer pipe burst last year and flooded under the passenger seat. There was a lot of water and I didn't get that much condensation! I had to pull the carpet up and cut the sound deadening along the tunnel as it's one piece trapped in place. I cut as much as I could out and put it in the garage to try and kept bringing it outside into any sun. It took a couple of weeks to get it dry, then I put it back. You also mentioned that the sunroof seal is leaking and dripping on the seat, any leak no matter how small need sealing, and as much moisture needs removing from the car. If you use any towels make sure you take them out of the car.

My guess would be on overboost fault. Some people have reported success in solving the problem by manually moving the actuator by hand hundreds of times to free it off, others have suggested that turbo cleaner solutions have solved the problem for them. We very occasionally get the problem in our car (hasn't happened for months now) and we found that it happened when the car had only done short journeys for a long time. A nice long journey down the motorway then seemed to stop it, but to be honest it's that infrequent that it may just be coincidence. I didn't have to hold it at high revs etc - just the nice long journey seemed to clear it for me. IIRC the car goes into Limp mode when it registers 7 seconds of overboost, some owners have reported being able to work around it by backing off the throttle (this is when it's got quite bad and they know it's going to go into limp mode) - not a permanent solution though! The fault code I get recorded each time it goes into limp mode is 17965 which is overboost. Try logging the measured value blocks in VCDS, from memory you need blocks 010 and 011 together - that should give enough information to confirm. Drive at a constant 30mph then accelerate full throttle to 3000rpm.

There is hundreds of leads on ebay: here is just one randomly picked example: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAG-USB-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-409-1-OBD2-II-LEAD-VAG-COM-/330399696070?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4ced5b44c6 That one costs

daddyfixit - sounds like your brushes are worn out, the knocking will have got it working for then but I bet it will stop again. Our drive slopes down towards the house, we've had it a few times where we get out of the car and shut the door to then watch the car slide down the drive a few feet - quite scary really

Daz is good though ;) Hope he doesn't read this he'll get a big head! :) Anyway I've said my bit - I'm convinced - I'll leave it at that for this thread, I take your point if I post on it in the future I will try to offer the advice as an alternative rather than the best thing since sliced bread!

I'd normally agree with your first point but the Master Technician in question is a galaxy owner and very respected on another forum, his advice I would trust. With respect to the compaints I'm using people who have replaced their plug either with the older style or the newer style in the older heater, of the many people who have used the newer one I have not seen one complaint, of the lesser amount (on the other forum due to the advice) who have fitted the older style - there has been lots of complaints, it's not enough data to be 100% sure but it certainly paints a good picture! Not sure on your logic regarding a wiring harness / adpater. The plug fits the same way as it does on the newer heater, by the removal of two pins and the replacement of the two new pins which come attached to the new plug. The plug even came with instructions showing how to do this. There is no adapter required for the new heater so I don't see why there would be for the older heater? I get your point on the use of the term 'correct', from now on I'll use 'better' ;) re: the additional point - I was just showing there had been talk of the newer plug on here before. I believe the newer plug is a different material for the element itself which was made to better stand the short trips and rapid heating cooling that the plug is subjected to. You are most likely correct that it was developed for the newer heater rather than the older one, but I expect it was designed to fix the problem they had with the way VAG implemented the heaters, and therefore this newer fix retro fixes the older heater too. The fitment is exactly the same.

Mirez, It was a trained VAG master technician that told me as well as a lot of other people about the benefits of using the 'wired' plug, it's been used by lots of people over the last few years with no reported faults yet, compared to lots of people complaining about there 12 month old 'unwired' plugs failing so it's enough proof for me! It's been common practice to fit that plug for the last few years based on advice from the other galaxy forum. Just to add if you read through the many pages in the faq regarding the glow plug you will find quite a few references from people who were advised to use the new style wired plug from their dealer - this is going back to 2005 - so the info has been on this forum for 5 years.

That's your choice! I'm sure not every one of the old type plugs will fail in 12 months but a high proportion did, that is why they brought out the revised plug with the fixed wiring. I found about them from a trained VAG Master Technician, and my local Ford Dealer knew about the update and agreed with it and sold me the updated plug - it cost around

Yes, you know if you've got the 'right' plug if the wires are fixed on, the old ones where you bolt the wires on are known for only lasting 12 months. I'll try and dig out the part number for the revised plug, but I was told about it a couple of years ago from someone in the trade - I went to Ford and they knew exactly what I was on about and ordered the correct but slightly expensive plug in for me. Also available from VW but it was a pound or so more at the time at VW. Slightly harder to fit as you have to prise the old pins out of the plug and push the new ones in, not exactly rocket science though

09 plate will still be under warranty - so pop back to a dealer and get them to have a look? Sorry can't help any more than that - I've not got one that posh! :)

Could be the HID kit, probably best to remove it and see if that fixes it. HID's don't work with the galaxy anyway, the galaxy has reflector lenses rather than projector lenses so the beam pattern is all wrong, all you end up doing is blinding other road users. The only way is to try to find some aftermarket lenses with projector lenses. Fitting them to reflector lenses is illegal. Other than that it could be your MFU on it's way out, pulling the fuse reboots it

That's unfortunate, most probably the remote key has lost it's transponder chip (often happens when people drop their keys and it splits apart) If you pull the key blade section off the remote you should see the loose chip in the key section or on the table if it falls out. So first check to see if it is there, I'm guessing it will be missing! You then need to either code the current one in (if it has got a chip) or buy another one (if it hasn't got a chip) If you had 2 working keys you could program a 3rd in yourself, but as you only have one you would need to take it to a garage with ford diagnostics equipment. This will set you back between

I can't see how you'd do it with standard seats, maybe a replacement bench seat was made?? If you put all 7 seats in the two rear ones do have more space around them but not enough for another full size seat though

VCDS Lite is just an updated version of vag-com, from what I've read they had no plans to improve the free vag-com, but they needed to do some work to rename it as the VAG group had complained about the name Vag-com so they put in some of the things they'd done to make the paid for version more stable. I had to play around with vag-com on the first laptop I used it on under XP and it wouldn't work under vista or win7, but VCDS just seems to wokr straight off on every installation I've tried. When you open up VCDS Lite there is a box at the top left titled "Select Control Module", press the big Select button there. This gives you all the modules to try to connect to (there are more tabs at the top but you should be on common). Click on 18-Aux. Heat and it will load up another window where it tries to connect to the heater, if it succeeds you will get some green text at the top and you will then be able to read and clear codes. Some of the other modules will work some won't it depends what's installed in the car, it's just a bit of trial and error to see what else works. Just one other thing though you never did say if you have a mark 1 or a mark 2. If you have a mark1 then I don't think you can scan the aux heater

how do you use vag -com ? - Download VCDS-lite, buy the cable, assign a port between 1 & 4 (look up instructions), run where is the port? - depends - mk2 as above mk1 was under the ash tray ignition on or off ? - on, you can have engine running if you want (required for some parts) start program with it pluged into car or not ? Don't think it matters but I plug into the car first any help would be great as it is not working at the mo controller not found regards Dom You should be able to make it find the controller from the comfort of your house (doesn't need the car) - sounds like you need to reconfigure the com port. Go to device manager on your pc, find the virtual com port and go into the properties and find the bit to change the port settings - you need to set it to 1, 2, 3, or 4. Make sure you download VCDS-Lite it's the replacement to Vag-com Free and is much more stable and works with windows 7 etc.

Don't think they'll fit - The Mk2 is a Volkswagen with a Ford Badge on it so has VW fitment wheels. The Mk3 is a Ford so has ford fitment wheels

Hi pipes, It could be a few things, as above you need VCDS (Vag-com) to read the codes, if you have a laptop then you just need to buy a cable from ebay for about

It sounds a good idea, but again the price is a little too much to make it worth it for me. I only looked quickly when I was after one and the cheapest I saw was

It won't be cheap! The pump itself IIRC is over

probably the easiest way would be to press the Print Screen button (Prt Sc), this will do a screen grab then you need to paste this into an image editing program. Then save the image as a jpeg, then you should be able to upload the image.

Have you made sure the aux coolant pump is running and running for 2 mins after switch off? If it's not running it could cause the overheating and could damage the new heater

I'd try some of that epoxy metal putty stuff to repair the casing then fill up with oil, if it's OK then you can think about making a better repair or just keep an eye on it. If it's still not right, then I've got to say I probably wouldn't go any further with it, the autos just aren't worth the hassle, if you've got the space/ability/time/tools then I'd pull the engine out and sell that, sell the interior, pull anything else off which looks like it may have some value and scrap what's left. If you're still after another I know of a couple of 2.8 V6's for sale at about the same price