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It depends on how loud you listen to it, what stereo you have got, whether you are using an amp and what battery you've got (and the condition of the battery). From the 1 hour statement I take it you have the standard ford head unit which I'm guessing but probably draws no more than 3 amps at a decent level of volume. If you had a 75 ah battery then therotically it would power the radio for approx 25 hours but obviously at this point the battery would be dead and wouldn't start the car. You should get a good few hours out of it though before it causes the battery to be too low to start the car.

I thought Mk3 alloys were a different fitment to Mk2?

I've just purchased a set of alloys to replace my corroded alloys. They are genuine Ford alloys and came off a late mk2 (2006). The valves look different to normal and the seller told me that the car had a factory fitted tyre pressure monitor system and they were the special valves to send the pressures. I can find info about the TPMS on the Mk3 galaxies but I can't find anything about it on the mk2. Was it ever fitted? Or is this likely to be an aftermarket addition?

Got a replacement sensor but the engine won't even start with the new one in! Old one back in and starting again. I got the new one from VW with part number 038 907 319F which is what they found from their computer for a Sharan with an AUY engine (mine is an AUY 115bhp). Is it the wrong one? They're ordering another in as they think it must be faulty but I'm worried they got it wrong!

Thanks (again) ;)

I've got a few minor faults with my Galaxy at the moment which I'm working through. The main and worst one is that it won't rev past about 3000 rpm, this point does vary though between about 2800 rpm and 3800rpm. When it hits this point the car loses all power and judders and the rev needle jumps up and down, going right down to zero some of the time. It does this everytime, so can be replicated on the drive. Each time is does it, it throws a 16705 error: Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Implausible Signal. Can anyone confirm this will be the crankshaft sensor on the front lower right of the engine. Held in with a 9mm multi spline bolt? When I phoned VW they suggested it could be the crankshaft sensor or the camshaft sensor. Is there anyway to use VCDS to determine which it is for sure? Thanks

Mine came in through the scuttle drains, but mine are have always been clear (while I've had the car) but as water runs down the back there is a seam which the water hist then gets through. Lots of silicone sealed mine up

The little ball joints pop off behind the lights, squeeze your hand down the back and check. I took mine out to find this out

I've got a ghia diesel, but haven't got heated seats and mine is 120amp. There was quite a few variations so you could do with getting the old one back to match the part number up

That's an excellent price well done - helps keep the average up! We bought our 02 reg ghia from a Kia Dealer over two years ago now, we paid

That problem with the alternator applies to the 2.5 V6 Cougar and Mondeo, not heard of it for any others - I have a 2.0 Cougar and it doesn't affect that. Also AFAIK it only affects them with the engine running. If you're really fussed about it try unplugging the radio and see if it goes away - I'm sure there was a batch of faulty OEM headunits which caused some kind of earth issue which caused pulsing lights. If it is that I think the fix for that was to run an extra earth wire to the headunit.

For those that do very short journeys it's worth fitting a switch to operate the aux heater, it will save you money in fuel and save the glow plug failing prematurely

sharan one probably won't work as it uses a different immobiliser. Scrap yard or look for a galaxy being broken on ebay and request the part - plenty about

About

How much of a beep are you getting? Mine makes a single beep if a door is opened, it's only short (I can't see it annoying anyone) - is that the beep that you mean? Or do you have a more irritating beep? The only suggestion I can offer is to bypass the door switch so the car doesn't know the door has been opened (maybe just on the door which is the worst offender?) - this will cure it from beeping but will also stop it from turning on the courtsey light.

Thanks for the how-to it looks good. DO you need any particular version of the cable? I see there are plenty on ebay for around

amp hr doesn't mater in this case - that is simply the capacity. So the greater the number the longer the battery will last on a full charge.

Check under the front seats for water, if it's steaming up a lot then you normally have a leak. The most common places are the footwells, and the pipe for the rear washer pops off when it freezes then floods under the passenger seat.

Does the Mk1 not have the pump fitted?? From being someone who had the pump fail I can say it is required on the Mk2 as without it the coolant does not circulate to the aux heater, I would have thought the Mk1 would also have it but I've never seen a Mk1 up close so wouldn't know. A lot of the other VWs have the run on pump even without the Aux heater

Nope it won't work. You can buy a cheap OBDII cable though on ebay for about

There is your problem, you missed one of the instructions for installing. You need to change the com port on the USB Serial device from 7 down to a number between 1 and 4 (what ever is free) to do this right click on the USB Serial Device in Device manager, and go to Properties, then go to the Port Settings Tab, click the Advanced button and change it from 7 to anything between 1 and 4 then close all of that - start VCDS and choose the same port as you just set it to and all will work

If it's a Galaxy and not a Sharan, and you have two keys then the cheapest way is to buy a third key with a transponder chip in (has to be the right type of chip) then have the blade cut and program the chip to the car yourself using the two working keys Only real disadvantage to a cloned key is that the car can only see one key (they both appear the same to the car) so you can't use a pair of cloned keys to program a third into the car, not a huge disadvantage though.

Mine usually goes off after about 1 second, but in this cold weather it has increased to about 3 seconds. Have you checked the glow plugs and run vcds to see if any faults come up? I tend to leave it about 10 seconds, if you just wait you can hear a relay click off quite a lot later when they stop heating, so just make a mental note to start it later. Having said that if I forget and just turn the key straight to start it still starts straight up even in cold weather, just doesn't sound as nice to start with!

Quantum Platinum is what is sold in our Local VW place, and it's the main one that TPS sell to the trade, If you are in the trade it can be bought for about

Brake pipes - you normally just run copper. Copper should cost about