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From the age of the rubber yes you should get the belt changed, and the pulleys may as well be done whilst you are in there. I guess you've got to weigh up the value of the car vs the cost of the timing belt job vs the risk of it going.

Just be careful - those instructions show the glow plug being replaced with the old type glow plug, these are the cheap old glow plugs which are known for only lasting 12 months. You can get a new type glow plug from Ford or VW for around

Dave I doubt the run on pump would cause the failure, but it's possible but you've got something else which is broken now. The code you posted suggests the Control Module, or an unreportable error (so most likely the control module in the heater). My Run on pump failed recently and all that happened was that the heater just cycled up to 360*C then down to 60*C then back up again. As it wasn't been pumped around it was just heating the coolant around the heater, so the car wasn't warming up and the heater was just overheating and cooling down. I didn't get any error codes with this and it was quite happy to do it. Worth checking your aux pump is runningt though before repairing anything else. @Smitch - there are much cheaper ways than paying Ford

Run VCDS on it or get someone else to run it and check for fault codes. My guess would be Glow Plug. Just out of interest though what age is you car? If it's a Mk1 then you can't scan the aux heater for codes, so you'll just have to guess

The clicking noise is the dosing pump, don't go just on that though as you can't always hear it, I believe there was even a Technical Service Bulletin issued on how to fix the clicking noise, something to do with th eway the pipe is mounted

Yes our galaxy is a 115bhp - not sure if it makes much difference on the economy side of things?

I think the ebay listing confirmed the fact that it was well overpriced! I noticed you added a bit stating that offers under

could even just be the fuel filter, the cold weather cold be freezing any sludge in there or making it thciker - any record when it was last changed?

Dealer probably didn't even know what it was, You should hear the unit run, but I've had it where you can't really hear it over the radio/fans on full blast etc. Put your hand near the unit, they get very hot so you will feel the heat off the unit if it is running. Don't think the exhaust will affect things. Have you got access to VCDS to scan for faults yourself? If not it would be a good place to start, VCDS Lite is free and you just need a

The price for the unit itself isn't too bad - I expected worse from a dealer, but the labour is a rip off, not exactly a long or difficult task

Try reprogramming the remote central locking - the guide is in the handbook, or can be found on the net, The immobiliser should stay on when you unlock the car. The immobiliser is deactivated by a chip in the key, there is a sensor around the barrel which has to pick up the chip in the key. What happens the first few times you try and turn the key? From memory when we lost a chip from a key, if we turned the key quickly in the ignition then the immobiliser actually lets you start before it has chance to try and detect the chip, but then cuts out a few seconds after

Have you measured up how big a battery you can fit in? Mine has quite a large tray and I could fit a much bigger battery than it has, but I've seen another galaxy which had a block box with wires going in/out next to the battery which took most of the spare space up. No idea what the box was, but maybe it leads to the variations you have seen?

Dave - I believe it is the bottom picture in the first post above

If the fuse had blown, then I don't think you'd get any diagnostics at all, IIRC 65535 is used on all ECU's as an unexplainable internal error. So this could be a whole host of things that doesn't bring up a fault, the ECU is the most common. If it clears then it might not be that bad, usually if they've gone then the code comes back straight away. See what happens monitor it for a few days and report back. You've got the later model and the ECU failure seems common on these, I've seen prices quoted as

I still think providing you have a healthy alternator even with all that stuff on you would still be above 12v all the time. If you are worried try it, just put a voltmeter across and start her up in the morning, and switch everything on headlights, heated windows etc, I'm guessing you will be above 13v so the aux heater will have no problem. I recently read about someone fixing one of these by replacing the ECU bit which cost them

I've put mine in, (Mk2 2002 1.9tdi ghia - No light at all ever!) SO what have these results told you?

June 07 was about 3 and a half years ago, IIRC they need replacing every 4 years so your cambelt is due for replacement in June (7 months away) I would say it would be daft not to do the cambelt at the same time, if you are paying to have the cambelt changed it won't cost you much more to do the waterpump, they're only about

My old knackered one still lit up, but it wasn't at the tip it stayed black at the end and glowed a bit further down. If I reset the codes with VCDS then it would work for a few days but then would have to many flame out errors and would lock out. I fitted the newer type plug to replace it, the old one had a terminal on the back to connect the wires to it, so you screwed it in then used the old wires. The new revised plug (which is supposed to last longer) had the wires fixed to it out of the packet, you had to use a long reach socket to install the plug with the wires pushed inside the socket. Then you had to remove the old wires from the multiplug by pushing out the pins, then you had to push in the new pins. This revised plug was about

When you run VCDS, you will need to go to modules then number 18 for Aux Heater, once it has connected to your aux heater, press the read codes button, this will give you the codes on screen, and if it's only a couple it will tell you what they are. If it's something like Flame Out errors, then if you clear the fault codes it may work (it locks out after a certain number of failures). If this error keeps returning without firing the heater up then the glow plug is probably ready for renewal. With yours being a 2006 it's probably the newer version of the aux heater, there is a post on here where somebody has stripped one down and taken photos. Best thing at this point is to run VCDS, and write down all the codes with as much detail as possible (if it's your laptop you can save them to a file, or copy to clipboard then paste into word etc). Then clear the codes, and run the car for a while. Then run VCDS again and see if any codes have returned. Then come back here and post your results

Hmm, seems strange how you managed to warm the engine up without it. Anyway - best way will be as you said in your original post, you need someone with VCDS who will plug in the cable and read / clear the faults. Then you need to use the car for a bit and see if the faults come back. I'm a bit too far to help you with reading the faults (Staffordshire) but personally providing you have access to a laptop I would recommend just buying a cable, they only cost about a tenner from ebay, and the VCDS Lite software is Free. You can then use it for a whole host of things and if the aux heater proves to be a bit problematic you may need to read the codes every few days until you've sorted it. If you need help setting the cable up just ask, I'll talk you through it or there are plenty of other members who will know how to talk you through it.

If I disable my Aux heater and drive 5 miles at -1c then my temp guage would barely move and the car would be freezing. I recently tested this although it was more like 5 or 6*C outside, It took 15 mins of driving to get the coolant temp up to about 75*C without the aux heater. With the Aux heater running after about 5 mins it is up to normal temp. Are you sure it hadn't run then cut out? Is your aux coolant pump working - if this isn't working the aux heater could be overheating and cutting out.

I don't think your old battery would play any part in any faults etc. The Aux heater doesn't start until after the car has started up at which point your alternator is running and therefore the voltage will be higher. The only time voltages would play a part is if you had a duff alternator or if you fitted one of the timer kits to start the heater up without the engine running.

Others have said they hear theirs and they're really noisy etc, I can barely hear mine from the car, as I know it's there if I sit in silence I can just hear it. If I get out quickly and open the bonnet I can hear it quite well though. Easiest test is to pop open the bonnet then go and switch the keys on (don't need to start the engine) then you should hear the pump run after a short while. Then go and turn the keys off and it should carry on running. I did read something about newer models running for 3 minutes after switch off rather than 2 minutes