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Is this the receiver/dryer cap people have removed and carried out the water test? Cheers

Is it possible to tell if there is any gas in the system and that it is not a faulty switch?

Hi there The switch is replaceable without degassing, it's located behind the area of the o/s fog lamp about

Have flashing display and vagcom fault A/C Pressure Switch intermittent. Is the switch under the bonnet? Is it replaceable? Although the a/c display flashes it does blow coldish (very 'ish) air when on 'Auto'. If there is a leak surely all the refrigerant would have evaporated by now? Last ones to tough it were Frauds.

VW Part Number: 038971600 Description: WIRING HARNE*M EAI Not sure where to find the engine code but it's a 1.9Tdi 115 ps (MkII 2002). I think being in the hot oil may change the wire/insulation over time as the wires in the old one seemed harder. Maybe my imagination. Have to say this forum gives you the confidence to have a go yourself and has saved me hundreds of quid since I joined.

Local Ford dealer quoted

Sussed it. Local VW dealer

Just rang the Ford dealer.

Got the loom out. I managed to get the bolt in front of the EGR valve out with a flexible coupling but it was more luck than anything else. The real pig is getting the loom out. A metal clip came off and teetered on a ledge in danger of dropping to the depths. Second use for the magnetic pick up tool. There is a long plastic conduit which carries the wires and you have to feed this and the plugs through a series of narrow hole and also pinch together the metal clips. I found that there is not enough room to get it out without removing the battery and undoing a couple of bolts to loosen part of the plastic enclosure that separates the battery from the rest of the engine. Unfortunately I didn't do this to get the loom out and it cracked. So hopefully I can get one tomorrow or in the next few days and refit it. If this doesn't do the job I may as well get a new MAF as well. Thanks to the forum and for for all your help.

I seem to be posting on two threads. Sorry about that. A neighbour gave me a magnet and with a length of narrow plastic conduit and some heat I now have a pick tool that works a treat. Got them all. Thanks for replies. I really appreciate it. I'll tackle the tomorrow as there's 120,000 miles worth of crud in it no doubt. Cheers

10 mm socket? Thought so. Neighbour gave me a magnet which I jammed into a length of white pvc oval conduit. Got them all out. Attached a picture of one of the connectors in the rocker cover. How do I disconnect this? Don't want to break it if I can help it. Does it just pull out?

.......find a large metal lump with a saucer type object on it - thats the EGR. Removal is 3 bolts but they arn't easy! Is the saucer type object chrome and sits at the back directly behind the rocker cover? Iv'e got two of the hex bolts out (one conveniently now in the plastic tray under the engine along with the two 10mm sockets I own.....don't tell me you need a 10mm socket to get it off, right?) but where is the third?

You know the big plastis tray thing that catches all the bolts and 10mm sockets? How do you remove it?

You know that big plastic tray under the engine that catches all the dropped screws and 10mm sockets? How do you remove it?

Thanks Roy, Floydey, I bow to your experience and will check the connections to the injectors. Is a new loom expensive or can it be repaired?

The previous Vagcom MAF sensor error has now disappeared but the electrical fault on the injector still shows. Looks lke the rocker cover is coming off the weekend to check the cable. Are injectors easy to get at if necessary? I don't suppose the fuel supply could be clogged to one injector could it?

Disconnected the Rocker cover plug and checked the connections, gave them a tug and they all looked sound. The MAF connector wires were also sound. I didn't check electrical continuity as I didn't know where the wires end up. Removed the MAF and the plastic was bit oily. Sprayed it with isopropanol and let dry off and then refitted it. Headed off to the motorway. Definite improvement. Still the chug-a-chug-a-chug...... but the acceleration at higher speeds is much better. Pulling away and accelerating from standstill much chug-a-chug but once the revs increased then it speeds up quite well. Noticed that the MPG display drops to 8 mpg when accelerating from a standstill. Although taking much longer to get there I got to 90 just and left it there for about 5 miles (mpg 25). Does it sound like the MAF? Just going out to try the Vagcom again. Thanks for your help.

Thanks for that. I've borrowed the correct security torx driver from work and was going to try cleaning the MAF tonight but will now check the connector continuity first. I suppose the connector is at the back...you know..some Godforsaken place where not even the three armed long fingered Ford mechanic can get to. Cheers again

Connected up a Vagcom and got the following results: Vascom.doc Could the MAF fault reported be responsible for the Injector electrical fault reported? Many thanks.

Intermittent fault - starts okay but sounds and feels like there is only three cylinders contributing to power like a petrol with a dirty spark plug. Runs like this but switch off and restart once, twice maybe three times and then it's fine. Grateful for any help. Cheers

What do they look like, are they easy to change, and how much are they?

Got it working by downloading a non-ross tech driver. Can't clear the airbag fault. MOT station said that as the code indicated a high resistance connection i.e. a wire has probably snapped then the airbag would be safe and so the tester will retest it. Post details of VAG COM purchased and driver needed later.

I am very near and I've just got one from ebay but can't get the bloody software driver installed.

Leak. Leak fixed (new pipe and best part of

I think it should. I read somewhere that the key should flash five times and the driver's door led should flash six times. On mine the key does but the door doesn't. Been like it for years. Tried the procedures documented but door LED is just continuously lit and then goes out after a number of seconds. Is this something that can be reset using VAG COM? I've bought VAG COM from ebay to hopefully reset the airbag light as the MOT testing station said they would refuse to retest it if I didn't get it sorted even though it isn't part of the MOT.