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Mine is diesel and I don't know if you have a MAF or an injector loom but I cleaned MAF sensor with iso-propyl alcohol spray and replaced the injector loom and my fuel consumption is now as when new (from what I remember) as is performance. Don't know if it was the MAF sensor or loom change but if I knew what I know now I'd have changed them as a matter of course ages ago. Been doing a trip numerous times over the past four years 95% motorway and MPG on the dash computer has gone from upper 40s to mid 50s on the flat. Not a scientific measurement I know but significant to me.

Sussed the parking sensors. They work in the rain. Dry day and just the flashing button and one long beep. Intermittent on cloudy days with sunny spells :) .

The display on mine doesn't flash and changing the condensor receiver/dryer appears to have solved the leak. Hot day today and it blew cold and I mean refrigerator cold. The ac fan noise wasn't constant. Then the fan noise became constant and then a fight between warm and cold ensued. Warm won. The condensor clutch engages when the ac is switched on. It doesn't clunk on engagement but makes more of a persistent grating noise. The pressure switch is okay. Sound familiar?

Had the same symptoms. Back street garage said it was the power steering pump and changed that. Noise still there. BS Garage telephoned local Fraud who told them it was the alternator bearing and the alternator needed changing. Alternator changed. Noise gone. A good forum like this and a few tools can save you hundreds.

Yes that's normal since you had no gas in, and oil is only recovered if its in suspension in the gas. You will only get an appreciable amount if the a/c has been working for several mins immediately prior to evacuation of the the system. From memory I think there's only about 160ml-200ml of oil in a Galaxy system anyway (dont quote me on that though) Thanks for the reply. I took it back to KwikFit and the guy there was insistent that he had put 1050 + 50g in. I checked the pressure switch and it's okay and the compressor clutch engages when I switch the aircon on but still no cooling. Gauge says pressure is there. Did I read on here that the shaft in the compressor could be sheared? It's the only thing I can think of. Run out of time to get an aircon specialist to look at it before my travels due to the summer demand. The condenser was leaking at the receiver/dryer and also at the pipe connection on the right hand side where the o-ring had perished.

Tolerance and not oil amount, right. KwikFit report says "recovered oil 0 ml" and "oil charged 10 ml" so did they get sod all out and only put in 10ml then?

Also is 10ml of oil enough? It says 50g on the plate but without the density I don't know how many ml that is.

I paid for the option when I bought it back in 2002. It has roof vents in the back. The plate under the bonnet says: Does this imply that a total of 1.75 kgs is required? I took it back to KwikFit a minute ago and was told that they first put in 0.7 kgs and when I took it back yesterday they put in another 0.6 kgs so 1.3 kgs in all. It definitely blew cold (ish?) yesterday after they put in the 0.7 kgs but didn't after they put in the extra 0.6 kgs. If it is a dual system then is 1.3 kgs enough? Is there a quick way to tell or see if the compressor clutch is engaging/disengaging? At a loss. KwikFit manager will get aircon guy to have a look tomorrow. The original KwikFit print out says: Recovered: 00.000 kg (so much for the 3 psi reported by Halfords) Recovered Oil: 0000 ml . . . Charged : 00.700 kg Oil Charged : 0010 ml Temperature was 10.1 degC Now 5.2 degC

This is from an earlier post by SeatKid: "AC pressure switch is a 3 way device i.e. lo/normal/hi. So it looks like yours is a high pressure problem due to too much gas (has it been regassed recently?) or a faulty switch or possibly a dicky connector/wiring." and from Chris " they are only OK for a straight forward regas (providing they put the correct amount of gas and oil in) a specialist is guy who has a good working knowledge of auto aircon systems on a variety of vehicles and is able to diagnose a fault without the guess work. " Back to KwikFit tomorrow to get some of the refrigerant out then?

Sorry, just done a search on this and this question has been asked before......by me and I received all the replies I need (looked for an appropriate emoticon but couldn't find one for tosser).

Got the old one out and the new one in and drove it to Kwikfit without the bumper bar and the bumper itself held on by the four torx screws at the top. KwikFit did what they do and no leaks. They reported it as blowing 5 point something degrees and I have to admit it was cold but not as I remembered it being but then again maybe I was expecting too much and it has been a long while since it was working. At least the display wasn't flashing. Took it home to get the rest of the bits on and noticed that they had only put 700g in and it's a dual system so I took it back and spent what seemed an age to put the other 300g in. Drove back and it wasn't blowing as cold. Put everything back together and did a run and it was not blowing cold. Put the Vagcom on it and got the fault: A/C Pressure switch - Intermittent. Is this switch changeable without getting the system emptied first? Could this be the compressor?

Thanks, Barlidge, much appreciated. I have to update on the purchase from http:\\www.autoairconparts.co.uk. Had an email from AutoAirConParts saying that the condenser comes with the receiver dryer and that they have refunded the difference. Total cost

Gave up trying to get the disc out. Had another try but I suspect I would only damage the seating if it isn't already beyond re-use. I've just bought the condenser and receiver dryer and will fit them as my last attempt at getting the aircon going. See what happens when I get it recharged. Nobbed by ebay/paypal so won't touch them again. Just got to get the front bumper off now. As an aside I was prodding and probing the front bumper and found out that the black strip that the front parking sensors are sat in just levers off. Gives you quick and easy access to the front sensors and the connectors. Off to VW tomorrow for a new sensor (if they are cheaper than Frauds; hope so as it's a 30 mile trip to avoid the local).

I think you're right. It isn't going to budge. The site I posted above both are sold separately but total

1st problem. Got the circlip out but the disc is so crusted I can't budge it. Found a bolt to screw into the disc but it's stuck fast. Anyone else solve this problem?

.......probably do all this and it'll end up being the bloody evaporator :)))

Thanks. I'll remove it tomorrow and see what the state of it is. May be able to get workmate with lathe to spin off something if it is too badly corroded.

The latter, the disc isn't held in by anything other then that C clip but the corrosion and general festerage will make it tight so the bolt can be used to retrieve if required. its not included in the OEM kit and when I did mine it came away freely. Thanks Mirez. I read here you had a receiver/dryer but no takers a couple of years ago. Just wondered what differences there are between the old disc and o-rings that make the new type less susceptible to leakage.

Anyone removed the receiver/dryer? Looking at the photo of the replacement part from: http://www.autoairconparts.co.uk/Car-Air-Conditioning-Receiver-Drier-for-Ford-GALAXY-1.9-Tdi-Diesel-Man/Auto-from-Apr-00-to-May-06-Part-31-1037.html they supply an allen key and a bolt with it (guessing the bolt is hexhead). Am I right in thinking that once the circlip is removed the bolt is used to unscrew the disc at the top or is it just to screw into what appears to be a threaded insert to grip the disc and get it out? Took it to KwikFit today but they asked me to leave it with them and didn't seem keen to have me hanging around to watch the operation so I made my excuses and left.

Removed the cap; very crusty inside but I don't know if this just dirt although with the cap on I wuld bank on the cap keeping dirt out. Put in water with a touch of washing up liquid using a syringe. After a while a rim of very very bubbles appeared. These could be air trapped in the dirt and crust and I think in hindsight I would have been better to leave out the washing up liquid. I think the pressure may be too low to generate bubbles but as others have found the crust may be the clue. Off to Kwik Fit to get a free leak test (hope they find a leak!). Cheers

Can't see anything mate ?? But it's basically a black plastic cap that is fitted on top of the drier on the left hand side of your reciever rad, you can just pop it off with your fingers.If memory serves me right it has a diameter of roughly a 2 pence peice Sorry. Big delay and error message between hitting post button and it appearing. Reposted.

Thank you Mike, Mirez. Another job for the weekend. The Halford's lad checked the pressure at about 3 psi(?). Is this enough to generate bubbles if I try the water test? Does this equate to much in terms of frostbite or damage to the ozone layer or the law? Also he said that the gas they use will fix the leak. Is this likely?

Can anyone tell me if the attached is the receiver/dryer cap where early Mk2 are subject to leaking demonstrated by the water test? Cheers AC_CAP.bmp

I cleaned the MAF with isopropanol and although the injector loom was duff it at least it ran consistently after this. I know this might be nothing to do with it but since I changed that bloody injector loom it doesn't have the sluggishness it developed over the years; runs and accelerates like it did when it was new. (...probably the kiss of death).