
ghr
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Everything posted by ghr
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Suspect they would try the car an deem it fit to limp home in. Anyway I paid the Ford dealer and it came out as £570 on yesterdays exchange rate. The mechanic showed me the problem and the new ones he was about to fit. Took it for a long drive on the motorway and it seems to have sorted it. The drive home will be a bit tense but I'll let you know what happened. Thanks for all your help. It's very much appreciated.
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Turbo Cut Out, 10k Boost Power Restorer Usage?
ghr replied to mrhclarke's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
Sorry again 1.9TDi 2002 Mk2 -
Turbo Cut Out, 10k Boost Power Restorer Usage?
ghr replied to mrhclarke's topic in Ford Galaxy Technical Section MK I MK II
Used this stuff before I came away. Removed the air filter cover and disconnected the big pipe after the MAF. Sprayed it in there engine at 2500 rpm as per instructions.There was definitely an improvement on acceleration and perhaps mpg BUT there was no thick cloud of smoke and debris out of the exhaust which means that 1. the engine was already spotless and didn't need it (137K mileson the clock), 2. I didn't do it right (distinct possibility) or 3. It don't work, at least not as profoundly as we are led to believe and/or it buggers up your driveshafts ;) -
That's really kind of you Alan. Done the check and the engine is solid. Doesn't shift at all. Looks like it is the driveshafts then. I've now got the dilemma of forking out £299 less tolls and diesel for a single ferry journey to save driving 6 hours of driving via the tunnel. The car drives well enough for the local travel while we are here so this is an option and I can do the work at home for the cost of the parts. French Guy next to us suggested a busy local mechanic. I'll see what he charges. Again, thanks.
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gregers: " if you think its a good deal then thats the main thing" Nah, just the short and curlies.:))) Thanks Chris, I'll have a look see. If the roll restrictor is gone wouldn't the engine tend to roll at a standstill just revving up?
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Not half gregers. Trouble is I'm in France and to be honest they could've said it was anything. I've looked on here and £600 seems within the realms of possibility for both driveshafts etc at a dealer. Doing it myself isn't an option for me here and from what I read here the cost of the parts varies so much from the cheap throw away after a year if you're lucky jobs to the dealer's type. Having replaced the drop links within a year of fitting new ones I found it's worth the extra getting decent ones. But I think £250 per side though is a bit steep. Still I will have a at look at the roll restrictor tomorrow. Just one thing ; can I see it with the under engine tray in place? From the top? Thanks again
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Spot on. Mr. T. On holiday and the local French F/dealer said 'all the drives' are kaput both ends and both sides. Can't do it myself here (not sure it would be within my gift anyway) so have to pay £600 all in. Thanks for your help. At least it confirms what Michel the Mechanic said.
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???Got me on that one; what's one of them? is it easy to replace/fix?
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Sorry 1.9Tdi 2002 Mk 2
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Hello, need help with vibration problem. Engine runs fine aound town 0 ~ 40 mph. On motorway or dual carriageway downhill vibration not there or small in amplitude. Climbing a hill and the whole of the front of the car vibrates and shakes making the car barely drivable as you would think something is going to fall apart or fall off any minute. This is variable. Starts off okay but the long steep climbs soon starts it shaking big time. Grateful for any ideas.
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Thanks for this. Found the the coolant sensor and changed it. VW Garage just down the road and they had the right one at £37 odd. Removed the large pipe and fuel filter and pushed the horeshoe clip down and removed it easy enough by hand. Getting it all back together again was a bit more difficult. Found that the clip has to fitted at the bottom of the sensor and not the top as it leaked straightaway. Tied a bit of nylon cord to the clip so I could retrieve it from the depths if the inevitable happened. Had to push in the sensor and fit the clip with one hand. Usual cuts and bruises but it did the job. MPG a shade up and no revving on startup. Good job. Also tried the 10K boost service spray. Surprised but it does seem to work. Bit puzzled though as the expected clouds of crap coming out of the exhaust failed to materialise but car runs better after it without doubt.
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How do you disconnect plugs e.g. the one on the coolant temperature sensor? Krypton factor 1 this morning. There's obviously something you need to press down? Cheers
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Sorry 2002 1.9Tdi 115
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Wondered if you could help me identify the parts in the photos: What does the aluminium can thing do and what is the sensor A ) The pipe (braided) has a groove worn into it and needs replacing and it would be nice to know what I'm going to be covered in if I remove it. Any help would be gratefully received.
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Anyone having problems accessing the FAQs?
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Thanks for your posts. I need to power a 10m radio transceiver. I'd prefer not to use a fag lighter socket. It can be permanently powered i.e. not via the ignition switch. Cheers
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I need to power some electronics. Is there a spare 12V output in the fusebox I could use? Cheers
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The smell was definitely organic so I suspect the blockage and bacteria. Either way it's working a treat now. Thanks to yourself and others here and perhaps a bit of luck I am one happy chappy. Cheers mate.
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The aircon on my Mk2 is now working. Why or how I don't know. I changed the condensor/dryer with the help of this forum and had it refilled and although there was no leak it would start off icy then slowly up warm after ten minutes or so. Switching it off for 5 or 10 minutes and then back on again would see it blowing icy air again but the cold/warm cycle would start again. The pipes connected to the condenser would be hot on the right and cool on the left but would warm up and cool down respectively. A week or so of switching it on and off now and again in the vain hope of it working it blew out this horrendous smell which quickly cleared itself. After this it worked and has worked since. Through the recent hot spell I was in France where it hit 30 degC it was still blowing icy cold air. Evening during the 500 mile return trip on the motorway it was 27 degC and it was still chucking out icy air. Cool without open windows and a hurricane blowing in your ear is a novelty. I haven't the faintest what happened to make it work and I can't see how the sudden occurence of this smell could have anything to do with what is a sealed system. The system had been 'dry' and not working for 4 years since it was condemned by Delboy and Rodney down at the local Frauds after a few hundred quidsworth of work (Frauds knew about the widespread condensor problem but failed to diagnose it; no change there then). One thing I reported here earlier was that the compressor clutch was making a grinding noise rather than a clunk when I switched the aircon on. Now it makes a clunk. I'm happy it's working but puzzled as to why.
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Aircon was a bit windy. Guffed something rotten last night :rolleyes: . Missus said 'Is that you?' I felt my pulse and it wasn't.
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Update: Aircon works. Icy blast.....for about 5 minutes then warms up. Switch off then switch on after 5 mins and icy again for a further 5 mins etc etc etc. Compressor clutch works when aircon switched on; pressure switch works; no faults reported on vagcom. Read here someone had the same problem and someone else mentioned an 'ice sensor'; does this exist? Despite autumn approaching I've become aircon obsessed now :blink: Clues appreciated. Mk2 Tdi 2002 Dual system (one opening window at the back and roof vents with 5 mins of icy air).
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Does TIS have electrical diagrams?
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Don't know what the wires do mind you. I'm working on that bit. If anyone knows the whereabouts of a proper connection diagram on the internet I'd be grateful for the address.
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Wiring for the door plug and the socket in the column attached. Note some insulation colour changes from door plug to door column socket.Door Electrical Connections.doc
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Fed up with persistent broken wires in the door loom I thought I ditch the plug and socket and make up a loom extension. Last two wires from the car end both green and at the door end one green and one black/red. Thought sod it I'll connect them and see if it works. Positioning the nearside wing mirror...back okay; forward okay; up hazards on; down hazards on. Swap them around; working.