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Finally got the airbag out, fitted the resistor and it worked. No more airbag light. Read on another forum that yellow = airbag with fords apparently. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/uploads/monthly_06_2013/post-3189-0-44663200-1372557725_thumb.jpg On the Mk2 TDi this has two brown and one black wire http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/uploads/monthly_06_2013/post-3189-0-56942300-1372557651_thumb.jpg The other side of the clock spring (airbag side) the yellow airbag connector also has three wires: brown blue and black. This is stored metalwork down on the bench in the shed. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/uploads/monthly_06_2013/post-3189-0-46266100-1372557800_thumb.jpg The 4R7 3W resistor sits in the holes corresponding to the brown and the adjacent black wire. Better view below. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/uploads/monthly_06_2013/post-3189-0-56353400-1372557783_thumb.jpg Tested the two pins on the left in the image below and found they were were short circuit. As the resistor worked it sort of implies the clock spring is duff ? Off to VW on Monday for a new one. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/uploads/monthly_06_2013/post-3189-0-93929600-1372557840_thumb.jpg Used the VCDS-Lite to clear the error codes and the resistor worked. Autoscan completes one controller and then complains about a licence. However using the the individual airbag controller works.

Slight veering off topic but you got the airbag out? I've been trying all day and I'm buggered if I can get it to unclip. Do you need to pull at the airbag cover while pushing the clip out the way? Or should it stay unclipped once you've levered it out the way?

Daft question but you tried all your PC usb ports?

I saw PM next to the topic title. Does that imply I've been sent a message? I tried to look and it disappeared.

What port have you got it connected to? I use the same setup but these are the things that make it not work: Choosing the right port. My cable has a usb connector to plug in a usb port. If I select the USB option on the V-Lite program set up function it won't connect. I have to use one of my four usb ports on the laptop and select the the com2 port in the V-Lite software. You may need to play around to get the right one. I'm sure you know that the ignition must be on. If it isn't it'll make you to wait for 30 seconds. When you detach the battery negative I'd unplug the cable from the PC before working on it. This may be personal paranoia but the laptop has a battery and my mobile phone still charges via the lapton when the laptop is not connected to its mains adapter.

Got mine from Halfords. £24.95 about a year or so ago. Not essential but makes the job a lot easier

Is the yellow connector arrowed the Airbag connector? Am I correct to assume there is a connector from the airbag to the clock spring and a separate one from the clock spring to its multiway sockets (where the yellow plug fits into)?. I can get to the airbag module retaining clips but for the life of me I can't get them to unclip? Thanks for any help

Mk2 TDi 2002 - Yes mine's there I seem to remember - tempted to run a cable from one side to the other.

Thanks for the quick reply. Another addition to the list.

Bought some Greenstuff front pads awhile back and unlike others I've used before they only had the wear wire on one set of pads. Muggins fitted the first pair with the wire to the other side ......etc etc Does the wear indicator dash light fail the mot if the pads are okay?

Job done. Just under two litres came out. No metal bits that I could see. The rumbling noise is still there at high revs in any gear. This doesn't build up; it's sudden once get to a certain number revs. I don't usually rev the guts out it anyway so it may have been there a long time. Good news is that all the other noises have stopped. Bad news is that there appears to be an oil leak somewhere. Only a drip leak. Quite a large area around the drain plug is covered in oil and an area on the the plastic tray under the engine. The leak could be the drain plug but I suspect that's wishful thinking. Anyway I've filled it up with new oil (Castrol 75W/90 Universal GL4/GL5 from Halfords £12.99). I used one litre bottles that have a nifty pull out nozzle and the bottle is pliable so you can squeeze the stuff in there. It's quite thick at room temperature so you don't tend to spill any unlike the hot oil that comes out at a rate of knots. You get enough of an angle with the bottle at the right of the filling point. Just need to sort out the leak but I have't a clue where to start. At the moment it drives like it always has done no noise (apart from the one mentioned above) and smooth gear change so I'm inclined towards Matt's suggestion of driving it until it really complains. Many thanks for the time you spent replying and your advice.

Same thing happened on mine (115 psi diesel). Changed the temperature sensor then all okay. As usual I went to Volkswagen dealer for the part; seem to remember it was cheaper than Frauds but VW don't guarantee the part as it's not fitted to a Sharan; small price to pay in my book. Bit of work getting to it from the top. It's held in place with a horseshoe clip that slides in from the bottom. Danger of dropping this into the depths on refitting - tie a length of cotton to it before refitting so you can retrieve it if you do drop it.

Buy cheap diesel additive in France for regular long drive home and found it does make a noticeable difference in mpg and tends to cope with long big hills better as well. Used the whole bottle for one tank instead of half bottle first time out and it didn't complain but wouldn't recommend it just in case.

Still didn't arrive so I went to the local motor factors and got one. Cost a quid more than the internet one. Should've gone there in the first place. All set for tomorrow.

No. The bloody drain plug key hasn't turned up yet. They forgot the order then the bank holiday turned first class post into third class. As soon as I get it I'll let you know.

Thanks for your reply. If coasting and the box is in neutral and clutch not depressed then no noise. Likewise if coasting in gear with the clutch depressed then no noise (noise before depressing clutch though while coasting). Taking foot of accelerator while in gear I get noise but acclerating again noise stops. Coasting at any speed/any gear with the clutch depressed and no noise. I have the drain plug tool coming and hopefully here tomorrow. I'll do what you suggest and drain the oil, check the amount and look for metal bits. If none then I'll refill with new and see what happens. Again, thanks for your help. I'll let you know how it goes on Saturday.

Appreciate your time and advice. Take your point about the clutch. Bearing makes sense as it is a 'rotational' noise. Once the box is out do I need special tools to get the old bearing out? Dreading removing the box - have new Haynes manual complete with the timeless 'See section 7.9' and there's a section 7.8 but no 7.9.

Since the dual mass flywheel broke apart (115 ps so no recall) a few years ago, when accelerating in first and then flooring the clutch to change into second keeping the clutch pedal depressed I noticed a noise something obviously spinning that decreases in frequency as the transmission slows down to a stop still with the clutch pedal depressed. This has now got worse and has become a rumble when in gear, say third, and taking my foot off the accelerator so that the engine and transmission brake the car. Putting my foot on the clutch while doing this and the noise slows in frequency and then diasappears. The car accelerates okay in any gear but once at high revs in any gear there is a rumbling noise. Changing gear is no problem and the clutch works fine. My thoughts are bearing/low oil but would value anyone else's opinion. [Mk2 2002 1.9Tdi 6 speed gearbox] Grateful for ideas

Thanks for the replies. May take the plunge; I'll let you know how it goes.

I;ve managed to do a number of jobs on my Galaxy Mk2 2002 1.9Tdi successfully thanks to this forum e.g. brake pads, air-con condenser, injector loom but if there is a scale of diificulty and the previous work I mentioned is on that scale where is a belt change on that scale? Thanks for any help

Always wondered what I'd do if I got pulled over for a headlight out on a dark French motorway and had to change a bulb so I bought a set of long torx screwdrivers from Machine Mart (product code: 040210659 £18.59) and removed the headlights completely. You're right ten minutes.

I took the instrument panel off and put black insulating tape on the back of the panel to stop light to the airbag fault display. Put it back together, turned it on and no light - then the computer display said AIRBAG FAULT in bright red LED :blush:

Sounds the same as the problem I had. Changed the receiver/dryer and got it recharged. No leaks. Ran cold for ten minutes and then got warm. Kept running this cycle of cold and then warm for the next few days. Then a smell came through the vents that made you gag - immediately after this the system blew icy cold air and still is almost a year later. I remember Seatkid thought that it could be a sensor that interpreted the blockage as ice and that the blockage cleared itself. Where this sensor is I haven't a clue.

Can you take LPG vehicles on the Channel Tunnel?

Probably they woiuld it deem drivable. Got the work done today and cost £570 all in at yesterday's exchange rate. The mechanic showed me the problem and the new parts they were going to put on. Drove up and down the motorway and it seems to have done the trick. The long drive back will tell. Thanks for your all help and taking the time to reply. Much appreciated.