Gadgetoid

Mike You should try VAG-COM - it comes up as code 00-000 on 14202(washer panel module) :lol:

Glad to be of service :lol: Sounds like your repair was far more thorough than mine (more of an excuse to get out of the house for 30 mins on a grey Boxing Day afternoon). Haven't I read in a thread on here recently that the windscreen washer panel was changed from a 3 piece to a one piece moulding last year. Let me know what sort of replacement you squeeze out of Frauds. (Of course if you have subtly repaired it they will tell you that there is nothing wrong and nothing needs replacing!) :lol:

I had a similar problem - rattle at 70mph that seemed to be coming from the clock area. Popped clock out and packed electrical lead so it couldn't rattle, then added some tape around the clock mounting in case it was the clock itself - but no difference :D . It wasn't till I took the Gal through a drive-thru car wash that the problem replicated itself without the speed, and the penny dropped - the rattle was coming from outside the bottom of the windscreen (and was triggered by air movement at speed or the powerful air dryer of the car wash :D ). Further investigation showed wiper blades to be firm, but the plastic decking into which they and the windscreen washers mount was decidedly loose. Tried to re-engage it in the mountings. Pretty sure I didn't manage to do it, but my fiddling got rid of the rattle anyway. :D . Reluctant to fiddle more in case I break the plastic - the mountings are a bit of a bugger to detach.

And there was me thinking it was all a typo - I was about to suggest a large cork would do as a "break wind back tool" :( . Alternatively just clench :)

I double those thanks to Seatkid - these are exactly the instructions the rip-off merchants try to sell you on eBay :) . Unfortunately they do not work on the Climate Control module for my 2002 Gal - and I guess for other facelifted models as well unless someone here knows otherwise. Using the Audiworld 2000 instructions falls at the first fence - the AudiWorld article states that switching Centigrade to Fahrenheit is done by holding down Recirc + TempUp buttons whereas the Fraud manual states that the combination for this function is Auto + Econ buttons simultaneously :) .In practice the Fraud instruction works and the Audiworld does not As for displaying fault codes, I simply have not been able to make it do so :) - the Audiworld combination doesn't work, and neither does any other combination of simultaneous button pushes that I have tried :( . I presume if it did work on the facelift models we wouldn't be talking about VAG-COM so much :D .

This company is the main source of integrated child seats on eBay: VW Audi Breakers Station approach Bath Road Melksham Wiltshire SN12 8DB E-mail: PARTS@vwaudibreakers.co.uk Website: www.vwaudibreakers.co.uk Telephone: 01225 792900 Fax: 01225 708169 They got a job lot from a disability conversion company and had an advert on eBay every fortnight last year. I am not sure if they have any left though, but worth a try. Also all were in VW grey velour with tool pattern. However the integrated seat is much more stable than the usual Britax + 3 point seatbelt, and being able to alter the seat configuration in seconds is very useful - wouldn't be without them :blink:

I understand that a faulty MAF makes the engine run a bit rough - previous posts suggest that if you disconect the wiring from the sensor and it makes no difference then Bob's your uncle, if even worse then something else to blame. There are plenty of posts on the topic if you do a search under MAF. I wouldn't have thought that a high electrical load would make much difference to MPG - your engine will have bags of power to run the alternator without it requiring extra oomph and therefore extra fuel. What is your acceleration like? stuck wastegates seem to be a problem on some diesel turbos. With your new ICE did you do anything aggressive to the wiring loom. I wonder about a short, broken wire, or blown fuse/relay. Any electrical faults elsewhere? Other unexciting causes might be binding brakes etc I am impressed by your specification - was your recent ICE modification to receive Freeview and how did you do it?

Gary, when I tried MM's link all I got was an error message :D , so for clarities sake I will spell it out for you: Jet engine noise is an auxiliary heater as the TDi engine generates so little heat of its own. Switches on when coolant temp between 5 and 75celcius. This means it should turn on first thing in the morning, and off when engine is at normal operating temperature. On a particularly cold day you may also find it switches on during or at the end of a trip as the exposed pipes to the rear cabin heater cool the overall temp of the coolant whilst on the move. You should also hear a ticking noise from the rear of the car - this is the separate fuel pump for this heater. They are a common source of trouble in diesel Gals - often manifesting as a cloud of white smoke from the back of the car if malfunctioning, or a shiveringly cold cabin if not functioning at all. Many, many threads on this topic through the forum, so try a search with any of the key words above :blink:

If there are controls on the digital clock doesn't that make it the rare booster heater option (with extra battery under drivers seat and option to warm the car before you get up in the morning) and not the common or garden aux heater to heat up the cold diesel engine :blink:

Common sense again. Anyone who obviously spends so much time driving, tinkering, posting on this forum and being a general petrolhead (or is that a head full of gas :lol: ) will have no time to be prowling the dark streets looking for a stereo from 'car park spares' :D Do people still keep silver? I thought most valuables were silicon based these days :D

I agree with johnb80. In fact that is exactly what the local dealer did, though they didn't bother with proof of ownership or ID - might have had something to do with the fact I sent my wife to ask when she was 8 months pregnant :o ! Another child would cost a bit more than

I agree - but someone who advertises a clearout with bargain prices is as just likely to attract business as making up stories about the multiple company cars he has just been forced into. Anyone caught in such an obvious lie is not likely to be the shiniest pebble on the beach. What do you think is more likely - the stupid fence or the sly trader? :lol: . I would have thought that clearouts of unwanted stock are much more likely to be 4000 and 5000 models than the more desirable 6006. My intention was merely to warn any of the community of good guys who use this site that there are some suspicious duplications in these adverts - so buyer beware :D . Anyway I was impressed that my query to the law seems to have been at least noticed - received a follow up telephone call for my online report on 10am Monday. If the seller is legit then he will just have to explain his situation - and he deserves my apologies for doubting him. If not, then he should be glad that we no longer give thieves the sentences they deserve :o

Though on reflection even double figures seems to be rather easy to achieve :lol: I might trust Ivor E Tower or Fredt ...but Ivor would have calculated his code already by clever use of wooden sticks :lol:

Though of course you could say that anyone with posts in double figures has a real interest in this site and is likely to be a good guy. :lol:

Aaaah... I have just realised why you are irritated....you think you are less likely to be sent the link or program as a consequence of my comment. I do apologise. Us new oiks really ought to learn to be quiet when the prefects are speaking :lol: I would argue that if we circulate the code cracker programme to people we have never met or even seen then we are more likely to return to our cars to find a smashed window and the stereo gone :lol: . Likely to cost more in increased insurance premiums than the (admittedly outrageous)

It's common sense regardless of how many posts Ford radios are now being stolen more frequently precisely because this software is in circulation.

Top Tip: If you are looking at stereos for Mark II Galaxys ( with the added lip to fit the flat dash ) ask to look at the tailgate from the vehicle from which it came. There should be a four figure number written in the recess for the handle on the lower margin of the tailgate. So long as the stereo has not already been swapped this is its code. Unfortunately in my 2 year old car the stereo had been swapped for an identical model but different unit, also cracking the facia in the process :lol: . I don't think that this is a problem for thefts as you have to unlock and open the tailgate to view it. Toerags usually access the vehicle via a broken window without bothering with locks :lol:

A work colleague and I had to get MPV's at about the same time. I decided on a used new shape Galaxy due to the neat integrated child seats, the trip computer (see user name) and the Ford dealer is only one mile away - didn't realise that I would now be decidedly equivocal about taking it to them in view of all the posts about correct oil for TDi's etc. To be fair they have been good so far - provided the radio code free of charge even though we didn't actually buy from them :lol: Anyway to get back 'on message' my colleague opted for an ex-demonstrator heavily discounted new C8. Had several trim problems immediately. Now with the cold snap the electric sliding doors are well and truly iced shut in the mornings - and no amount of pulling will dislodge them :lol: . I had thought of the manual swing doors of the Galaxy as not so hot - but obviously not as 'cool' as my colleagues alternative :lol:

I looked up stolen goods on the Help pages. All it suggests is to inform the local police and gives an email address which will respond to 'law enforcement' officers but not members of the public. :lol: . I left these details with Essex police (the alleged location of the seller). To be fair I do not know these to be definitely stolen. It just seems very suspicious. It is up to Mr Plod to take it further. :lol:

I am not sure it is wise to send anyone who asks a copy of the code cracking software - look at my thread 'Stolen Ford Stereos' in the ICE forum :lol:

:lol: Replying to my own post I see that there is a thread in the technical section where people are swapping the code cracking software :lol: I wonder how many of them really own Galaxys or if any of them might be ready to sell you their old stereo due to 'upgrading' from a nearby quiet street :lol:

I was reading a thread on the upsurge in stolen ford stereos on the Honest John website last night :lol: . Nobody could say outright but the widespread ability to unlock the codes on these seemed to be the culprit, making them inherently insecure and of course they are 'oh so easy' to fit :( Subsequently I was browsing through a certain internet auction site used by us all ;) . I found it interesting that a certain seller of top Ford stereos ( 6006 and 6000 models predominantly) was selling 4 different units at the time. Reason for sale each time was given as variations on the theme 'I have upgraded to SatNav' or 'I now have a company car'. One wonders how many SatNav equipped company cars one can possibly possess at any one time :lol: . Looking back through the sellers items I see he only seems to sell Ford stereos. Naturally all his feedback is positive for providing such bargains :lol: . I will not be more specific in case he has a genuine reason for giving misleading details. However I have found out that Essex police have a wonderful online crime reporting tool for non-urgent crimes :D . I hope Mr Plod acts upon the information and doesn't simply file it :( I hope this info will encourage anyone looking to upgrade their stereo to doublecheck not only the feedback but also the nature of previous items sold by any seller they are considering. Worrying though that Ford stereos seem in demand by the toerags of this world due to the general release of the code unlocker.