Gadgetoid

The answer is no...but: Do you really need a bezel and cap - if you use the DVD version of the control assembly then the 12v power socket is included, with a bezel and cap built in. Be very wary with the supposed proper screws - they are supposed to screw into plastic fittings in the switching module, through the metal bracket, but the screws suggested in Ford Microcat look far too big when you do get hold of them - I ended up using some standard fit computer screws, much smaller, so I had piece of mind that I wasn't cracking the circuit board inside the module unit.

There are 4 alternative arrangements to have DVD sound coming out of car speakers which I can think of : 1. Adapter from earphone socket wired to one of those 'false cassette' gadgets - cheap, simple, and legal, doesn't use a power socket, but messy 2. FM adapter - as already pointed out not UK legal, also uses a power socket, but may have the benefit of a USB or solid state memory (eg SD card) input socket as a bonus 3. Take audio output from the back of the visteon DVD player - there are two groups of 3 aux sockets at the back of it ( one 'in' , one 'out' ), as well as the similar aux sockets built into the panel of the multimedia console. You could wire the 'out' sockets through the gearlever console to the back of the radio, but would then need an appropriate adapter to convert video/left audio/right audio sockets to whatever input socket exists on the back of your radio (certainly not present on the back of a Ford standard fit radio, but may be a better option if you have VW or aftermarket headunit ) 4. The power loom wire ( Part number F1146020 I think - haven't got the invoice with me at present, but see my picture uploaded into the 'Retro-fit DVD' thread) contains the standard audio/in out connector for the factory fit multimedia system - but this is a Visteon proprietary plug and I'm still not 100% sure about the pinouts for this - I'm not at all certain that they are the same as the existing 12 pin socket that normally links the Ford head unit to the rear CD changer. In particular I think the power pins are not identical. I've talked to BDM2510 who did retro fit the system to a Sharan and he blew a fuse in a (Ford) head unit when using this connector. I'm not counting on anyone with a factory fit system spending an afternoon with a multimeter to work it all out either!

I should gave known someone would have beaten me to the draw! :D

Just found this add on eBay :D http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Water-leak-on-1996-F...1QQcmdZViewItem Which of the many people on here with a great sense of humour could it be?

Or even better for an mp3 player this unit: http://www.discountcarstereo.com/detail.aspx?ID=822 Let me know if it works if you get one.

Is this the sort of thing you are looking for? http://www.logjamelectronics.com/piefrdnaux.html Not used it myself, but looks interesting.

Suggest you particularly look for posts relating to 'blocked scuttle drains' - you'll probably find you have a pool of water in front of the pollen filter/air intake.

Retrofitted the factory fit system to my Galaxy this weekend ( all the expensive parts of the kit came up on eBay in the last two weeks - but each from a different seller - wierd! :D ) Now having doubts about how to connect the final two connectors. Tried contacting BDM2510 but his email is no longer active. Perhaps Dally or Bazunitec could tell me how they did theirs. In particular I'm trying to connect up the power and multimedia connectors of the cable F1146020 (picture attached if upload succeeds :lol: ) http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i244/Gadgetoid/PowerLoomF1146020.jpg Top connectors are back of 12v socket and input to multimedia module (in green) - have no problems with these. There are two spare connectors at the bottom of the picture - uppermost looks identical to the CD changer connector - can anyone confirm that these are identical and I can just replace one with the other. The lowest connecter in the picture is obviously a power input with two red, two black and one white wire. I guessing that red is permanent live, black is earth, (as one of each goes to the back of the 12v socket connector) - but I'm not sure about white ??switched live. Ford certainly don't do any cables to further connect either of these - on the 55 plate mutimedia Galaxy I looked over both these connectors plugged into the main wiring loom, and I'm not planning on buying one of these just to butcher it! Visteon did do a cable to connect both of these connectors to the back of the radio using replacement radio plugs - but only as part of a kit (HR-1710). Currently trying them in case I can get this cable as a spare part. Any help you can give would be much appreciated

Probably not ripped off - if you do a search for 'scuttle drains' you will see that if water is draining to the passenger footwell in a Mk1 Galaxy then it will soak the central locking ECU. Not precisely your symptoms - all the windows should lower by themselves when it rains - but the auto-electrician obviously knows the common faults in Galaxies. :angry:

I have these kids seats and they are the bees knees. I think you may be able to take the arms off fairly easily ( someone was asking how to put them back on 6 months ago as they had fallen off spontaneously). You could check them to see if there are obvious nuts or bolts at the attachment point. If you are using the fold down baby seat in the middle position, then as it has its own belts you can put a LH or RH chair in this position - but you won't be able to use an adult seatbelt for one of these though.

Yes that part is available from Frauds as a spare part - there are two versions though one for VHS and one for DVD setups. Sorry I don't know the part number for the VHS version, but I would imagine it would be fairly easy to work out which is which on the Ford parts system. Cost about

When my glow plug was duff the blower would start and spin for about 20 secs before turning off. I could hear the metering pump ticking all that time - no doubt squirting more unburnt diesel onto the insides of the booster heater. The puff of white smoke at the time was probably atomised diesel - but nothing compared to the smoke screen that resulted when a new glowplug successfully initiated ignition and all that unburnt diesel started to combust :lol:

How nice of you to volunteer :lol:

I posted a link to a free version of these instructions ages ago - with a report that it certainly doesn't work on the Mk2 http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...=6179&hl=unlock

You don't say whether your multimedia setup is DVD or VHS ( so power outlet either in console 'dash' with DVD or separately on the side of the console with VHS setup). Either way this installation guide should help (credit to joczeze in the ICE section of this forum) http://euro.evisteon.com/uploads/euro_docu...instruction.pdf If you have a DVD setup and want to replace that particular section of cable rather than mend it then the part number is F 1146020 from Frauds ( GBP 25.17 inc VAT) - or by chance I have a brand new spare if you want to message me and make an offer.

My air intake pipe ends just inside the sill - I guess it's a cheap way of ensuring that no grit or water gets in without going to the bother and expense of fitting a proper air filter

The fact that your dealer knows anything at all about glowplugs and aux heaters should fill you with confidence - because most main dealers think you are talking about the engine if you mention glow plugs, and if you have a problem with the aux heater think that the only solution is to replace the entire unit. JB could be right about the overfuelling, but I wouldn't be surprised if a new glow plug (and clearing the fault codes from the ECU - remember to ask them if they have checked this) sorts the problem. I'm starting to wonder if lots of short trips allows gunge to build up in the aux heater (and on the glowplug tip) as the aux heater doesn't have time to burn off the initial extra fuel it receives instead of a choke. Would this fit with the previous use of your car?

Try looking through the VAG-COM thread which has been active recently - it suggests that the garages will interpret the computer error codes generated by a failing glow plug as a dodgy meter. It would appear that 99% of the failing aux heaters on this forum are fixed by changing the glowplug - mine certainly was. If you were paying yourself it would be better to get them to replace glowplug and clear all fault codes first (ie try the cheap fix first). As it's under warranty, try letting them do their own thing, but mention you think it could be the glow plug, and can they change that later on if plan A fails to correct the problem.

Same problem on the wife's MkII TDi only 3 weeks ago. Needed to get in as engine oil warning lamp was lit - but by that time (6pm Sunday evening) not a hope of sorting anything out. Had to get her to take it to the garage on Monday morning, where it was all sorted out (so don't know the details). Needed 1l of oil adding - so with the scheduled service last week they put an extra litre in when changing the oil. DOH! Wife under instructions to return to get the extra drained off ASAP.

My CC also flashes. Used VAG-COM to pin down the problem to a flap motor - which still works, but is obviously requiring a few extra volts or something. Having said that, the motor (and CC control panel) were fine until the aircon specialist took the entire dash apart to fix the leaking evaporator - which was indicated by flashing panel as the gas ran out. CC now beautifully cold - at a cost uncomfortably into 4 figures, and a big hassle getting the third party warranty to pay out. On the other hand you can't expect perfection in a 2K motor - but it might be worth looking around to see if there are alternatives without a potential big bill on the horizon.

Don't forget that the pipes to both the booster heater and rear heatermatrix run along the bottom of the car - very exposed to cold air when moving. I lagged mine with standard house 15mm pipe lagging (bit of a gap left, but rotated lagging so the gaps faced each other rather than open air). Held on with standard cable ties. Booster now fires up much less often - used to start up half way through a trip if the car was coasting on a cold day.

Usually the booster heater is shut down 'permanently' after the ECU logs five failed ignitions. Mine didn't for some reason, even though I could see 5 'flameouts' logged - so the heater tried to start up twice every trip, for 2 weeks, until I replaced the glow plug. Left the whole heater dripping diesel. With new glowplug it restarted even though the outside temperature was way above 5c - and filled the entire street with smoke for 15 minutes as the old diesel burnt off :huh: . The neighbours were on the verge of phoning the fire brigade :( . There was obviously an glitch in the ECU that left a permanent 'on' signal to the heater. Once it had run normally once, it didn't work again until I had cleared the fault codes with VAG-COM.

If you would only try a search you would have seen that I posted on this weeks ago :huh: The procedure is taken from the Ford Focus website AND DOESN'T WORK FOR GALAXIES :(

An accident switch? :) Is that like a scheme to recover the cost of your car by swapping all the serial numbers to one already written off? :) Or do you have extra options on your instrument panel that I don't? :lol:

Of course most garages just add grease to the outside of the door hinges - looks as though somethings been done, but no bloody good in lubricating the hinge!