new nige

yer got that, let us know if it clears you 65535 internal control module error code, also you should have a look at www.vagcat.com if you register and click catalogue you can view all component diagrams for the whole vehicle (seat alhambra) its very uesful! nige

thanks andy

ECU to inlet manifold pipe yes From memory is the curly pipe not the exhust in to the turbo? I did mine by feel from the top so cant remember what it looks like

Andy This diagram should sort you out same engine as me! nige

Dont let the footwell light hang loose and short on the chassie, it will blow the interia light fuse. Good luck and keep things posted

I will post if / when I manage it, I have the lower facia off at present but can

Had another go see photo, so close but still cant work out how to release it? any suggestions?

Robin I did all the hoses accept the MAP two a year or so ago, things significantly improved (just like you). I haven

Anyone know if you take out your ECU and unplug it (to mend the internal hose) will this compromise the engine or immobiliser coding and hence require it to be reprogrammed? If so can you do this with VCDS lite or do your need full version?

Changed the MAP sensor hose thought I would post how this was done to help anyone else, fish the bit that comes out the engine compartment, ensure it is free to pull through, get a long screw and cut the head off, thread it on the old and new hose splicing it, trim the braiding gently pull through from the accelerator peddle area, remove clocks and finish the job. Doubt it made any difference as the old hose seems in good condition, will check tomorrow.

i am still stuck on the MAP hose, but havent had time to give it a real go, of interest I believe the hoses are actually under pressure not vacum.

Found the MAP hose on either side of the bulk head it goes through near the accelerator pedal, you can access it easily by removing the lower fuse box cover (no need to fold out fuse box), doesn

I did mine a few weeks back, the dust covers were split and piston had surface pitting and hence wouldn

Had a poke about behind the clocks tonight, the hose comes out the ecu and drops down toward the fuse box. From when I was last in the fuse box I seem to remember seeing it, hence my next angle of attack is via the fuse box.

have you any fault codes?

Had a good poke about at the hose that runs between the Inlet manifold and ECU MAP sensor on my mk1, has any one changed this it looks almost imposible to get to? I am considering an routing a new hose with an alternative route. Any one know of a good way of getting from the engin compartment to behind the clocks?

Not actually done the job but an idea of using a straight pipe connector, cut off the end of your old pipe near manifold, push in a straight connector then connect the new pipe then pull old pipe in through dash hopefully pulling the new pipe in through the bulkhead. will have a good poke about cheers

I have the same fault codes, I believe fault code 65535 relates to the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor it is called up as an internal control module error, but this could either be the sensor physically inside the ecu box or the hose going to it. This is why I asked if the MAP was in the ECU. On mine a hose goes from the inlet manifold (next to the thermometer through the bulkhead and connects to the ECU box) later models had the physical map sensor on the inlet pipe I believe. My next move is to change this one remaining hose, if that doesn

sorry to bump this topic up has anyone changed the hose from the ecu map sensor behind the clocks to the inlet manifold (mk1), this dives through the bulk head behind the break fluid reservoir? Is this easy to thread through and pop out behind the clocks? Do you need to thread string though and draw it or will it find its way? Any advice welcome!

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/index.html

there are two layers underneath, these fold out its a right faf

Has anyone changed the hose from the ecu map sensor behind the clocks to the inlet manifold (mk1), this dives through the bulk head behind the break fluid reservoir? Is this easy to thread through and pop out behind the clocks? Do you need to thread string though and draw it or will it find its way? Any advice welcome!

mk1 egr is easy to get to remove the bulk head tray, then its 4No. Alan key bolts. If you remove the whole valve this will leave an open vent to the exhaust and inlet manifold hence you may want to blank these off temporarily while you clean it. Oh and when you unbolt the egr there is a gasket between the flanges you need to catch this or it will drop down the engine void and you will have to remove the under shield to recover it. This will turn a 20 minute job into and hour and make you swear allot.

Is the MAP sensor on a MK1 97 not inside the ECU? (Mine is also an Mk1 97) how did you change it? The egr valve is quite easy to get at you could get 2 blanking plates from ebay and remove it temporarily while you give it a clean and still run the car. Mine is blanked permanently.

I have these same fault codes (65535 & 00575 on AHU engine) and have been trying to resolve it for some time now too, replaced all but one vacuum hose. The one that goes through bulk head is remaining but had a split near the manifold intake, trimmed this and the problem improved significantly. I have been revisiting this after living with an improved but not ideal situation for a while. Last night I blanked off the egr which had its vacuum feed plugged by previous owner to disable it. Test drive suggests this might be part of the problem. Question is, if your egr is not fully shut due to being coked up but (bodged) isolated from the vacuum feed could this loose manifold pressure and hence report these fault codes? I will clear codes tonight and report findings in due course.