nicebutdim

I'm not sure if they are similar but I know the only adjustment of the selector mechanism is at the gear stick end on my mk1. You have to remove all of the centre console and the cables are underneath. As I said, I'm unsure if the mk2 has the same system.

If the motor is turning 180 degrees then returning, isn't this the same as it doing the full 360??

Also make sure all the earth connections are clean and secure between the engine and the body. So many issues can be caused by an insecure earth.

Could be the input shaft bearing on the gearbox. When the DMF came apart it could have put undue forces on the bearing and damaged it. Bearings quickly self destruct in short periods of time so be careful if it is the cause. If it is a similar design to the mk1 5 speed box then the bearing is possible to change without box disassembly, but it does mean the box coming out. Can't be the release bearing or other clutch components as the noise would be constant with engine noise.

Kwik fit are really helpful with brake bleeding. I don't normally take the car anywhere to have any work done but I struggled getting a small amount of air out of the system. Took it there and for a small outlay they bled it perfectly.

If there is coloured bulbs in there you will probably find all the colour has burnt off/faded. My front ones failed on the same this year.

I had to remove my rack a while ago and didn't find it too hard. I dropped the subframe a little to get it out which you have to do to be honest. Get yourself new subframe to body bolts as they are stretch bolts and will have to be replaced.

Never back bleed a system, especially if it has abs. Any tiny particles of crud in the system can easily clod the tiny passageways inside the abs unit and give problems.

Easibleed I have always found to be better. It gives that bit of extra pressure and is so much easier than any other.

You could fit a 12v relay to the fan supply and wire the sensors across the N/C contacts. When the fan comes on the relay will open the contacts and cut the supply to the sensors. Experiment first to make sure the lower voltage of the fan on a lower setting operates the relay.

In my mk1 which has similar dimensions I can fit anything in upto just over 6ft. I know that sounds rather approx but I managed to get a 3 seat sofa and a 2 seat in at the same time. It was a little cramped up front with the seats forward but certainly doable.

Had a look on eBay and can't find any of the mountings separately. You 'may' need to go straight to Fraud themselves. They will be able to bring up the diagram on their computer to show you which one it is and how much. Tim

I used these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Edge-Street-ED206-180W-4-Way-Car-Audio-Stereo-Speakers-/160838120792?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item2572b2f558 Easy to fit with little work at all.

The image looks like it is pointing towards coiling the wire from the ?alarm? around the coil ht lead. Maybe it can sense the engine is running from the pulses picked up by induction. On a Diesel you have no chance of replicating this, there simply just isn't an ht circuit.

Just be sure it is well supported under there. It's still a job as you have to manipulate it off the steering shaft and then wiggle it out. It is also recommended to replace the subframe bolts too as they are stretch bolts. And they're all that hold all the front end together (steering and front wheel wise).

If I remember correctly you may have to drop the subframe a little to get it out. I had to on mine when the track rod end was seized on.

I'm not sure to be honest. He put the key into a cup that read the key to a laptop, then the code was written onto the pats chip in the new key. They will check before attempting any cutting if it can be copied.

Hi all, Just been to Timpson to get a new spare key cut which I was quoted

Recently I popped into my local Timpson to ask about a replacement key for my mk1. They can do it without the master key and it costs about

As far as I know all the diesels are 8 valve. The only 16 valve engines used in Galaxys are the petrol Zetec engines.

Thank goodness for that. I felt bit of a nob for helping that idiot after I saw all the other messages he left.

I remember how it's done now. There is a bracket bolted over the water pump that holds the steering pump and air con compressor. I think there is 3 or 4 nuts that hold the bracket. When the bracket is removed you will see the bolts that hold the water pump in place, they face out towards the front of the car. There is no need whatsoever to go near the timing belt, it won't get harmed or even touched.

Not meaning to add fuel to the fire but I managed to change my mk1 tdi water pump without touching the cambelt. The whole water pump is bolted to the side of the block. If you only remove the front of the water pump then yes you would have to remove the cambelt as the bolts that hold the pump together are behind the crank cambelt pulley. If I remember I had to remove the alternator and place the air con compressor and power steering pump out of the way. It was a bit of a job, not hard, just a a sod to get at. Get a Haynes manual for the MK1, very useful. Tim

Sounds like the common case of the ball joint popping off the selector on the top of the gearbox. Have a look/feel around under the battery tray above the gearbox, you'll soon see what I mean.

On my mk1 I found it easier to undo both lower shock bolts to lower the arms. Also it is HIGHLY recommended to replace both rear springs, even only if one has broken.