Masked Marauder

Easy peasy lemon squeezy. Look on the Ross-Tec site, there is a demo.

That will be the price of the parts......

I have a full version of VAG-COM and can not get my heater to talk to it and I have tried everything. Mine is a R1998 btw, fitted with a D3W heater.

I have VAG-COM and my heater won't talk to it either. Mine is a 1998 on a R plate btw.

From a reputable manufactures and supplier I guess so, but the price of high quality oils these days I guess it won't be long before the counterfeiters are doing their worst.

I think it is likely a typo if it was a litre every 1000 miles it would be eating oil, but on some engines even that is condsidered normal.

If you want an auto then I think you will have to have the 115. I don't think the 130 is available as an auto, but I could be wrong. They both have the same amount of torque btw, the BHP just changes the rev range it is available over.

96K on a V reg is normal mileage! Many that age have over 150k on them! My 1998 R reg has 130k and was one of the lowest mileage ones I saw when I bought it. Your engine temperature does not surprise me. It does seem a bit slow to warm up but I am going to suggest that the auxilliary heater is not working. Do you get a jet engine sound from the underside near the rear passenger side door area when the engine and outside temperature is low? As the glow plug light goes, the VAG engines use a fast heating plug that is red hot in about 2 seconds.

Well if someone in your area has VAG-COM they can do that for you, if you put you loctation into your personal information someone might be in a position to help.

Mine was off for months and I never noticed any difference when it got put back. It is a blind stag what it does though!

Is it always when the accelerator pedal is at about the same position? If you have cruise control, does it do it with the cruise control engaged?

You have said "batteries" so I presume both were changed. So the only thing left is that your remote is faulty.

The fan blades are known to break off, perhaps it has done this and is jamming the fan.

I have on my desk a 12 volt pump, a timer and a relay. I just need to build a circut to amplify the timer output from 2uA to something that can switch a relay. Then I will have all I need and it will have cost about

Mine revs to about 5K I think....

Yes the voltage would be there. The heater has it's own controller on board and there is nothing in between it and the power supplies to stop it.

TDi engines have a steel sump with a plastic sump-cover. The undertray is required to stop water getting onto the PAS belt and causing steering problems.

I would check the back of the fuse box. Something arcing would cause the symptoms you talk of and it could be where the wire is crimped into the fuse holder.

Colours? You want colours? Sheesh! RED 12V from fuse panel BLUE 12V from alternator when engine running BLACK from thermal switch in engine compartment GREEN to metering pump BROWN to 12V Ground GREy & WHITE to OBD2 Socket

People on this forum have done what you are trying to do. Hang in there and someone who has done it will come along!

Does this help?C__ElsaWin_html_RL_XML_V_2_612940.pdf

Your looking for a purple wire behind the stereo for the gala wire. It then only sends pulses per revolution of the wheels. You then need to program in the wheel and tyre size etc. It will learn if you give it long enough apparently though. The CAN-BUS is part of the OBD2 socket I think, you will find it on the bottom of the crash-padding in the drivers side footwell.

So are you saying one of the blades has a broken end? If so it will run off balace and oil will piss out the seals like there is no tomorrow. If so then what could have caused the damage?

No, you need to fill the tank to spend less time at the pump overall.

Everyone pays. You use the goods, you pay. Anyone who thinks we can do without trucks should spend 12 hours not using anything that has been on a truck at some stage in it's life. You would have to stand naked in the middle of a field to do it. I am currently petitioning to get every truck driver to have the same two weeks summer holiday so there will be no trucks clogging up the roads for a whole two weeks. So you had better get plenty of supplies in as there will be nothing in the shops after the first few days and no fuel at the filling stations.